Ryley, could you post a picture of your in-hauler arrangements when you have a chance? Need some guidelines to start the project.
Modified Columbia 30 info?
- Thread starter 95Terp
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ryley
Super Anarchist
I took a few pictures for you.
1. a block is anchored under the hatch post. The length of that line should be slightly shorter than the tightest angle you plan to in-haul. The dyneema is dead-ended to the deck organizer. I use a simple stainless ring for the sheet, others have used low friction rings.
2. Dyneema goes to this series of blocks. One block is anchored on a padeye and the other goes to a harken cam cleat. The size of these lines are overkill, but they do the job. will consider replacing them in the future but we weren't sure what loads we'd get when we first set it up.
The sheet goes from the clew, through the inhauler ring, down to the deck block, back to a low friction ring on a short strop before going to the winch. the low friction rings let us set up for cross sheeting so we keep it rigged as best practice.
Irrational 14
Super Anarchist
Mine has a single purchase that bridles to both sides for simultaneous control.
Scale on back of mast provides reference.
Scale on back of mast provides reference.
inneedofadvice
Super Anarchist
I don’t what this accomplishes.
Irrational 14
Super Anarchist
The Yellow Inhauler line is within reach of the cockpit OR anyone hiking on the deck either side.
A fiddle block with cam cleat hangs from the gooseneck. You could run it aft under or inside the boom if you want to. I rigged it with the goal of not drilling a single hole in the boat while reducing hardware. Everyone likes the simultaneous adjustment for both sides. I find I dont inhaul the sheet further than the edge of the cabin top or it chokes it too much. Other jibs may vary.
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ryley
Super Anarchist
it pulls the clew of the sail inward without having to oversheet the sail, so when you get a nice powerful shape, you can haul the clew in, keep the shape, and usually get a few more degrees of point.
Unless I misunderstand your question.
Irrational 14
Super Anarchist
Just ran across this rendering. Looks good in the Navy color...
Irrational 14
Super Anarchist
ryley
Super Anarchist
@Irrational 14 when you have some time can you send some details of your runner setup?
I was thinking of going to runners. Our current backstay has two mounting points on the transom for all of the cascades - they're probably about 1' off center to each side and thought I might be able to build something off those. yours go much wider - is there an advantage/disadvantage to either setup? I think the C32 I raced against a couple weeks ago had the runners almost on centerline as well.
I was thinking of going to runners. Our current backstay has two mounting points on the transom for all of the cascades - they're probably about 1' off center to each side and thought I might be able to build something off those. yours go much wider - is there an advantage/disadvantage to either setup? I think the C32 I raced against a couple weeks ago had the runners almost on centerline as well.
Irrational 14
Super Anarchist
Hey Ryley-
On my boat, the Runners are there for when you want to get the most out of the rig. Since I run a moderate square top, I am locked into runners.
For Daysailing and Cruising, we just run them forward to the chainplates and sail without them. Not needed since we have the long swept back spreaders. If we need to point better, de-power (control headstay sag), or push the boat harder downwind in any type of breeze, they come into play quite effectively. I'm a fan of Donovan and his GP 26 is a perfect example of bare essentials for a fun tunable speedster rig. I emulated a similar system with the gross Runner Controls leading to the windward primary winch with a clutch. I then added a 36:1 fine tune I can reach behind the helm.
For tacking and jibing, the gross can be managed easily. The helm can then dial in the fine tune. A load sensor would be nice here but I go by sight and feel. To answer your question regarding mounting points, outboard is better.
There is less interference with the boom and you use less rope in the system.
On my boat, the Runners are there for when you want to get the most out of the rig. Since I run a moderate square top, I am locked into runners.
For Daysailing and Cruising, we just run them forward to the chainplates and sail without them. Not needed since we have the long swept back spreaders. If we need to point better, de-power (control headstay sag), or push the boat harder downwind in any type of breeze, they come into play quite effectively. I'm a fan of Donovan and his GP 26 is a perfect example of bare essentials for a fun tunable speedster rig. I emulated a similar system with the gross Runner Controls leading to the windward primary winch with a clutch. I then added a 36:1 fine tune I can reach behind the helm.
For tacking and jibing, the gross can be managed easily. The helm can then dial in the fine tune. A load sensor would be nice here but I go by sight and feel. To answer your question regarding mounting points, outboard is better.
There is less interference with the boom and you use less rope in the system.
ryley
Super Anarchist
hmm.. we generally use the cockpit winches to trim off even with the spin so we can keep the weight back, so I was hoping we could cascade this enough to get the tension right without having to put it on a winch. I may have to rethink this.
Irrational 14
Super Anarchist
We only use the windward primary for a quick snug then lock the clutch and you can add more tension with the fine tune at any time.
With no gross 2:1, you'd be pulling miles of line on tacks and jibes. Easing would also be an issue.
With no gross 2:1, you'd be pulling miles of line on tacks and jibes. Easing would also be an issue.
ryley
Super Anarchist
agreed.
