Modified Columbia 30 info?
- Thread starter 95Terp
- Start date
Irrational 14
Super Anarchist
There should be 2 drain holes towards the rear, channeled through piping leading to transom exits. If you have the drains, make sure they are not clogged.
If you don’t, you’ll need to I install them.
If you don’t, you’ll need to I install them.
Irrational 14
Super Anarchist
Add this to the list.
ryley
Super Anarchist
If your boat is the former "Pi," it rated 60 in ECSA in 2014. In contrast my Columbia 32 rated 75, but we've got the ballenger aluminum spar and fractional jib.
Jack Orr from North did a lot of work with that boat. You definitely need to find the runners. Jack showed me pictures from around 2014 of that rig inverted with a J1 or J2 up... owner was complaining about the fact that he couldn't sail it to the rating. You've got an outboard too if I remember so you've ditched the weight of the 1GM10 (as did eXigent). Personally I like pressing the button and not having to shlub around an outboard when I'm delivering the boat but you're obviously cool with it if you bought it
the hatch drains, as I14 pointed out, are crucial, as is keeping them clear. high quality gasket material is also a must.
I'm not sure if yours has the carbon blade keel or the ductile iron. If it's the iron one, you'll need to check every year that you didn't cut through the fairing material with a crab pot line. The keel on my boat has been problematic, with delamination and a piss poor repair job. PO had it on a hydro lift and would motor in with the keel up, banging around in the trunk, thing was a mess. Don't do that - the boat's not meant to move with the keel up unless you can wedge it and keep it from swinging around. Feel free to PM if you have any questions.
here's a link to the last cert it had that I'm aware of. http://join.ecsa.net/cert2014.aspx?b=3854
Jack Orr from North did a lot of work with that boat. You definitely need to find the runners. Jack showed me pictures from around 2014 of that rig inverted with a J1 or J2 up... owner was complaining about the fact that he couldn't sail it to the rating. You've got an outboard too if I remember so you've ditched the weight of the 1GM10 (as did eXigent). Personally I like pressing the button and not having to shlub around an outboard when I'm delivering the boat but you're obviously cool with it if you bought it
the hatch drains, as I14 pointed out, are crucial, as is keeping them clear. high quality gasket material is also a must.
I'm not sure if yours has the carbon blade keel or the ductile iron. If it's the iron one, you'll need to check every year that you didn't cut through the fairing material with a crab pot line. The keel on my boat has been problematic, with delamination and a piss poor repair job. PO had it on a hydro lift and would motor in with the keel up, banging around in the trunk, thing was a mess. Don't do that - the boat's not meant to move with the keel up unless you can wedge it and keep it from swinging around. Feel free to PM if you have any questions.
here's a link to the last cert it had that I'm aware of. http://join.ecsa.net/cert2014.aspx?b=3854
Irrational 14
Super Anarchist
Wow- looking at the cert, that "I" measurement is 9' higher than original Southern Spars config... Like I said, this will be a beast in the light but she'll get overpowered prematurely with that setup. 95- Hope you have a lot of friends that want to go sailing.If your boat is the former "Pi," it rated 60 in ECSA in 2014. In contrast my Columbia 32 rated 75, but we've got the ballenger aluminum spar and fractional jib.
Jack Orr from North did a lot of work with that boat. You definitely need to find the runners. Jack showed me pictures from around 2014 of that rig inverted with a J1 or J2 up... owner was complaining about the fact that he couldn't sail it to the rating. You've got an outboard too if I remember so you've ditched the weight of the 1GM10 (as did eXigent). Personally I like pressing the button and not having to shlub around an outboard when I'm delivering the boat but you're obviously cool with it if you bought it
the hatch drains, as I14 pointed out, are crucial, as is keeping them clear. high quality gasket material is also a must.
I'm not sure if yours has the carbon blade keel or the ductile iron. If it's the iron one, you'll need to check every year that you didn't cut through the fairing material with a crab pot line. The keel on my boat has been problematic, with delamination and a piss poor repair job. PO had it on a hydro lift and would motor in with the keel up, banging around in the trunk, thing was a mess. Don't do that - the boat's not meant to move with the keel up unless you can wedge it and keep it from swinging around. Feel free to PM if you have any questions.
here's a link to the last cert it had that I'm aware of. http://join.ecsa.net/cert2014.aspx?b=3854
Ryley - Don't you guys on the East Coast use Off Wind Ratings as well? On the West Coast, I'm at 72 W/L and 48 Off-wind. Clubs will use the specific rating determined by course.
95Terp
Member
- Thread starter
- #48
That's the boat, yes. I'm sure the learning curve is going to be steep. The standing section of the runners is there - just not the lower running part. We're working through those issues. We do have multiple jibs to choose from so that should help some. When I was discussing boats with Tim Kernan a few years back he strongly suggested the 7/8th fractional rig modification as the original configuration was challenging in light air. So in comparison to that, we're only a few feet higher on the "I". I think the boat was up to a 66 rating most recently. That being said, i have no idea how competent the former owner was. I never saw a picture of him flying a kite, and several showed the main with no clew strap if that's any indication...
I don't love an outboard, but it does have its benefits. We're considering electric for short trips to and from the racecourse on weeknights.
It is the iron keel. Seems to be in pretty good shape other than some rust and delam right around the hull opening. The boat lived in the water or on jackstands with the keel down. I don't think it had been raised in several years.
I don't love an outboard, but it does have its benefits. We're considering electric for short trips to and from the racecourse on weeknights.
It is the iron keel. Seems to be in pretty good shape other than some rust and delam right around the hull opening. The boat lived in the water or on jackstands with the keel down. I don't think it had been raised in several years.
ryley
Super Anarchist
Actually, I14 can confirm this but 7/8 was NOT the original config. The original, single spreader carbon stick with no backstay and runners was closer to a 3/4 hoist. My Ballenger spar is pretty close on to a 7/8. Looking at original left coast pictures, the jibs look tiny. My boat's pretty much a weapon in light air, as long as it's flat. it's also not too shabby off the wind - last year in a pursuit race around boston harbor islands, we got passed upwind in some heavy stuff where we really needed a #3 by a J111. We passed him back on the downwind and finished a few minutes ahead of him.
This video was taken the year before that. We were reefed with A2 up, and only 5 on board. We really got hammered going upwind, but the dw was a lot of fun
I14, PHRF-NE is still a single number system, but the majority of our races switched to ORR-ez last year and we're pretty committed to that. I just got my YRA cert for BIRW, but I'm kind of done buying PHRF certs unless absolutely necessary
This video was taken the year before that. We were reefed with A2 up, and only 5 on board. We really got hammered going upwind, but the dw was a lot of fun
I14, PHRF-NE is still a single number system, but the majority of our races switched to ORR-ez last year and we're pretty committed to that. I just got my YRA cert for BIRW, but I'm kind of done buying PHRF certs unless absolutely necessary
Irrational 14
Super Anarchist
Yup - 3/4 rig. I carry a conservative Square Top Main w/2 reefs, L/M #1, HVY #1, #4 (no furler) and dual runners w/deflectors at hounds.
This gives me decent power I can control up the range.
A2, A3, A5, Zero, and Staysail for downwind options. Considering Symmetrical kite and pole for the VMG advantage.
Putting in some Ropeyes for outboard sheeting options so I can carry my #1 longer as breeze builds. Still a ton of work to do but getting there.
Goal is coastal and some light offshore racing. I'm not looking for more power where I sail.
This gives me decent power I can control up the range.
A2, A3, A5, Zero, and Staysail for downwind options. Considering Symmetrical kite and pole for the VMG advantage.
Putting in some Ropeyes for outboard sheeting options so I can carry my #1 longer as breeze builds. Still a ton of work to do but getting there.
Goal is coastal and some light offshore racing. I'm not looking for more power where I sail.
ryley
Super Anarchist
I14, my C30-2 was definitely rigged for a symmetrical. track on the mast with ring, a fitting on the foredeck for the foreguy... but by the time I bought it none of the moving bits were with the boat - no pole, no sym chute. I think it must have had the symmetric when it was on Lake Lanier, but might not have been as effective as they hoped.
95Terp
Member
- Thread starter
- #52
Looking forward to some downwind rides like that. That kite looks gigantic!
I know the original rig is 3/4 - Tim was suggesting that rig was underpowered in light air and that's why they started going with the 7/8th on the 30-2's. With the masthead jib and square top main I don't expect that will be an issue for us. I imagine we'll be reefing early and often...
I know the original rig is 3/4 - Tim was suggesting that rig was underpowered in light air and that's why they started going with the 7/8th on the 30-2's. With the masthead jib and square top main I don't expect that will be an issue for us. I imagine we'll be reefing early and often...
ryley
Super Anarchist
95Terp, I don't know what boat you're coming from, but if you have any questions about getting up to speed on this thing, I'm happy to help.
And yes, that kite was big.. too big actually. I have new North A2 that is slightly smaller but a better shape - if you look at the video, our luff is too long and it's hard to control the curl. New one should be sportier.
And yes, that kite was big.. too big actually. I have new North A2 that is slightly smaller but a better shape - if you look at the video, our luff is too long and it's hard to control the curl. New one should be sportier.
Irrational 14
Super Anarchist
It would be nice to try with a used masthead sym kite. The boat needs about roughly 16 knots to get on the step downwind. Anything less and you could be poling back like a big 5o5.
Worth an experiment at least. If others have done this before, would love to know about the results.
95Terp
Member
- Thread starter
- #55
Thanks for the offer - I'll definitely take you up on it. We're coming from a Beneteau 10r, so it's quite different from that. Prior to that though we had a Melges 24 and then an Antrim 27, so this boat isn't unfamiliar.
We have a pile of kites to sort through. The newest is a North A1.5 that looks hardly used. We also have a light A2, and then three other A2's of differing vintages, one of which is labelled "old, big". It looks old and big. We also have an almost unused C0.
Irrational 14
Super Anarchist
We only use one. Tapered and super low stretch. Also - If you don't already have a bobstay on the pole, add that to the list. It's required.
Irrational 14
Super Anarchist
Simple Ring and stiff shock cord running alongside of deck keeps it taught against bow.
Photos of setup deployed and retracted. Use SK99 for bobstay.
Photos of setup deployed and retracted. Use SK99 for bobstay.
