Modified Columbia 30 info?
- Thread starter 95Terp
- Start date
Irrational 14
Super Anarchist
Just an FYI - Inspect your mast butt and cradle closely! Aluminum cradle resting on Stainless hinge plate made quite a bit of an electrolysis chemistry experiment.
My current project is fabricating a new cradle since Southern Spars does not make it anymore. Same part used on Farr 30 if you can find one.
Installed a G10 Isolator Plate to hopefully prevent this in the future. It looked fine on the outside until you saw the white powder seeping out form the bottom.
My current project is fabricating a new cradle since Southern Spars does not make it anymore. Same part used on Farr 30 if you can find one.
Installed a G10 Isolator Plate to hopefully prevent this in the future. It looked fine on the outside until you saw the white powder seeping out form the bottom.
ryley
Super Anarchist
Irrational, can you send me some close-ups of your bungy arrangement for the bobstay? I used some last year but it did not look nearly as good as yours.
ryley
Super Anarchist
95Terp,
if you're in mostly light-air venues with the masthead jibs, you can probably sail to that 63 once you get familiar with the boat. in mid-range winds you'll get killed, and when you get back to planing conditions and can switch down to a j3 you might be able to make the 63 stick. I think 66 is more reasonable.
if you're in mostly light-air venues with the masthead jibs, you can probably sail to that 63 once you get familiar with the boat. in mid-range winds you'll get killed, and when you get back to planing conditions and can switch down to a j3 you might be able to make the 63 stick. I think 66 is more reasonable.
Irrational 14
Super Anarchist
Next time I'm at the boat, I'll snap a few shots. In the meantime, I'll explain here since it's pretty easy:
Use SK99 Dyneema as opposed to SK78 for bobstay. Far less stretch and holds your splice lengths much better. This will save your sprit in the long run.
Locking splice at bow knuckle and before you terminate at sprit, slip on an Antal ring. The ring should be able to slide up and down wherever it wants to go.
After you terminate the other end of the new bobstay, pre-stretch it overnight using pole outhaul and winch. Once you're happy with the length, you can crimp 5/16" dyneema shock cord (Robline - around 12' or so) around the Antal ring. I used stainless hog rings and covered with heat shrink tubing.
This then goes through a small eyestrap on deck near the forestay (stbd side) then back to a small ti-lite at the base of the first stanchion, then forward to the pulpit attached at the base with a bowline. This allows you to adjust the new shock cord tension after it stretches following the first few outings. System is clean and barely visible. Makes everything more streamline eliminating any lines dragging or hanging off the bow.
Still doing tons of mods to this boat as time allows. Just finished all rig upgrades including new dyform forestay with calibrated turnbuckle and top mast runners w/deflectors at hounds. I should get way better headstay tension control now.
Next up is an upgrade to the upwind sail inventory (slightly larger fathead main w/straighter leech and matched to the new luff curve using the deflectors) and a new jib w/higher clew designed specifically for in-haulers.
Engine water pump is also on to-do list since it's starting to leak.
ryley
Super Anarchist
if the water pump is leaking, consider changing the two oil lines that run right underneath it while you've got the pump off.
Also, thank you for the info on the retrieval line. I was almost planning to do an internal tack line but it's more hassle than it's worth.
Also, thank you for the info on the retrieval line. I was almost planning to do an internal tack line but it's more hassle than it's worth.
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Irrational 14
Super Anarchist
Yup, thanks. Done it already which is how I found the leak. Seems to be a trait with the GM10. Good little engine though other than that issue.
TimFordi550#87
Tim Fordi550-#87
me want ride. gimme a holler if you need another bod!
TimFordi550#87
Tim Fordi550-#87
Hell, I'm going to be an ORG in 2 weeks, (Old Retired Geezer) so should be an email if you need work in the boatyard. I have CF and epoxy and will travel, 
Steam Flyer
Sophisticated Yet Humble
Welcome to the club..... from what I see here at SA, you won't have any problem with friends or figuring out what to do with your time.Hell, I'm going to be an ORG in 2 weeks, (Old Retired Geezer) so should be an email if you need work in the boatyard. I have CF and epoxy and will travel,
FB- Doug
TimFordi550#87
Tim Fordi550-#87
Hah! Thanks, Steam. Lookin' forward to it but I have a tendency to get sucked back into work...I stink at retiring it seems
Christian
Super Anarchist
Irrational 14
Super Anarchist
63 is a dream come true rating...
SoCal Off-wind rating is 48 and that's with inboard and standard rig.
We have a 75 mile 2/3 down-winder coming up. If we get some breeze on the transom we should be able to hold it. Boat will be about as optimized as it can get and then some. We'll see how it goes.
SoCal Off-wind rating is 48 and that's with inboard and standard rig.
We have a 75 mile 2/3 down-winder coming up. If we get some breeze on the transom we should be able to hold it. Boat will be about as optimized as it can get and then some. We'll see how it goes.
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Irrational 14
Super Anarchist
:wacko:
Gotta love PHRF. That's one reason I still sail class boats.
I think Ryley is starting to do some ORR events on the East Coast. Perhaps he can chime in on his experience with so far.
Gotta love PHRF. That's one reason I still sail class boats.
I think Ryley is starting to do some ORR events on the East Coast. Perhaps he can chime in on his experience with so far.
ryley
Super Anarchist
here's a link to the last NE PHRF cert that was issued: http://join.ecsa.net/cert2014.aspx?b=3854 - it was rated 60 up here too.
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