Navtec Hydraulic Panel Selector

[Vespucci]

On my new (to me) boat we have a 3 position Selector switch to control the Navtec hydraulics for backstay, vang and out haul.

The selector switch seems incredibly stiff, even our burliest crew guy is having to use two hands and tools to select the different positions.

Is this normal? I hope not, leading to the next question of the appropriate means of fixing it. I generally do ALL work myself, so details of an approach to remedy this would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[bammiller]

Either the valve wasn't torqued properly when it was rebuilt (not likely) or the stainless steel selector stem is bent in the aluminum body (much more common) to name a few possible problems.

You are much better off getting someone who has worked on these before and who has been to Navtec school to do the work for you.

Good luck with that.

Bam Miller

 

[Mikel_new]

Certainly not normal.

It might be VERY dirty ...

Any hydraulics shop will have a look at it, and probably fix it. The problem is that dismounting it is not easy; better if you manage for one of their technicians to come to the boat and have a look.

On my new (to me) boat we have a 3 position Selector switch to control the Navtec hydraulics for backstay, vang and out haul.

The selector switch seems incredibly stiff, even our burliest crew guy is having to use two hands and tools to select the different positions.

Is this normal? I hope not, leading to the next question of the appropriate means of fixing it. I generally do ALL work myself, so details of an approach to remedy this would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[Mr. Fixit's brother Mr. Fixit]

I have had good success using local hydraulic repair shops. For a good hydraulic shop there is no 'magic' in these kind of valve blocks and cylinders. Just remind them if they're gas charged on the back side.

 

[bammiller]

I have had good success using local hydraulic repair shops. For a good hydraulic shop there is no 'magic' in these kind of valve blocks and cylinders. Just remind them if they're gas charged on the back side.

I'll agree with you on plain cylinders, except boomvangs (which require special tools to insert the piston and charge the nitrogen gas charge), and maybe on the pump portion of a hydraulic panel, but unless you have a diagram and know where and how the Loutrel disk works or doesn't - I still recommend leaving it to the guy who has done them often. Then there is the issue of obtaining spare parts; I know Navtec only sells them to their authorized service center.

Bam Miller

 

[Vespucci]

Thanks for the input.

I've looked into getting spares for the seals, wipers etc. and it it seems Barn is right about the proprietary nature of the system. The parts a not readily available and it seems that the whole thing is set up for professional maintenance only. So the whole pump unit will be removed from the boat after the race this weekend, then serviced and reinstalled next week.

Thanks for the words that dissuaded me from having a go at servicing this myself!

 

[bammiller]

Thanks for the input.

I've looked into getting spares for the seals, wipers etc. and it it seems Barn is right about the proprietary nature of the system. The parts a not readily available and it seems that the whole thing is set up for professional maintenance only. So the whole pump unit will be removed from the boat after the race this weekend, then serviced and reinstalled next week.

Thanks for the words that dissuaded me from having a go at servicing this myself!

If you haven't had your cylinders serviced in the past 8 years, i might suggest that you inspect the top wiper seal where the stainless piston rod enters; if there are any signs of cracks or oxidation, get them serviced as well.

Also the oil should be a very light amber color; if you see much black or dark clouding replace that as well. ISO32 or ISO15 for cold weather use. I would suggest washing the whole fluid system with mineral spirits, reservoir included, pumping that through until it runs clean. Also, if you can, switch the lines from the reservoir, as 1 line is the pressure release return line, so all the old used oil travels through that hose back to the reservoir, or you will just add old oil to you nice new clear system.

Bam Miller