New flooring----what to install

sailman

Super Anarchist
8,334
443
Portsmouth, RI
Post boat show update: saw a new product www.nautikflor.com. Impressive product, snap together floor sections similar to pergo style. 100% PVC, digital printed surface and then a heat treatment for durability and texture on the surface. The feel of if was surprisingly good and the look was very good. Pricing was ~$9.40/sqft

 

StumbleNola

Anarchist
620
1
New Orleans
How important are cosmetics? Last floor I had to replace we used marine ply, sealed it with epoxy, then painted it with garage floor paint with sand mixed in. Great non-skid, held up perfectly, and you could hose it down without a problem. It did look pretty industrial though.

 

Bruno

Super Anarchist
3,960
136
I like the synthetic panels, but usually they are at a price premium. Coosa and 3m state they are fiber reinforced polyurethane, thermolite just says polymer. My understanding is that polymer just means plastic? There are all thermoplastc resins rather than thermoset?, I think, blown in sheet molds in varying densities and reinforcements. As long as they bond well then why not? One plus is reduced labor with their smooth faces.

 
Last edited by a moderator:

Snore

Super Anarchist
3,132
351
DTSP and on OPB
Question. No matter how hard I try, when it get sloppy out - especially on a passage - the cockpit sole gets wet.

To the OP question, how best to treat the new floor to keep it skid resistant, but still attractive?

 

bigfoots dick

Member
273
0
if its teak and holly, apply nonskid to the holly. it depends on how thick the holly seams are but this is a easy and clean way to include nonskid. I have replaced several soles on various boats and have some good ideas if you want some. Feel free to message me.

 

Movable Ballast

Anarchist
6,201
250
San Diego
I'm replacing my teak & holly plywood floors with teak & holly plywood. The original floors lasted some 25 years so I think it will be OK. I am going to seal the edges and bottoms with epoxy (something Schock did not do) to at least slow the eventual rot.

 

DrewR

Utility Infielder
1,219
48
Buzzards Bay, MA
I'm replacing my teak & holly plywood floors with teak & holly plywood. The original floors lasted some 25 years so I think it will be OK. I am going to seal the edges and bottoms with epoxy (something Schock did not do) to at least slow the eventual rot.
I did that 5 years ago. Now I have to do it again. I took great pains in the new sole. I soaked the ends with a ton on MAS thin epoxy and coated top bottom and sides with the same. 4 coats I believe. 6 coats of varnish on top of that. In a heated shop under perfect conditions. Sealed for a lifetime or so I thought. Took forever to do.

Now, the wood is delaminating in multiple places. One thing I noticed right off is the veneer in the new t&h plywood is paper thin where the old sole the veneer was much thicker. I suspect many voids and lousy construction, but I did pay a lot for it. YMMV.

I'm contemplating 1/4" G10 with fake plastic teak and holly. I've looked at a number of products but none seem good. Any suggestions? I would do a thin veneer over a solid substrate, but there doesn't seem to be much out there.

 

DrewR

Utility Infielder
1,219
48
Buzzards Bay, MA
It does look good, I was at the NPT show but somehow missed them as I spent 99% in the tents not on the boats.

It says it needs to be mounted on a substrate tho, so it can't just be laid down.

Are you ordering it?

 
Last edited by a moderator:

Max Rockatansky

DILLIGAF?
4,031
1,099
I... think... my flooring is lonseal. I mentioned earlier that I replaced some of it, where the substrate was rotted, with a mat. And I like the mat.

That said, I didn't replace all of it. And the flooring had been coated with 24 years of something that was peeling and flaking and yellowed. I pulled the salon table to do some work on it and it was then apparent how bad the flooring looked.

Madame wasn't having that, so she first tried ammonia to strip the old which sort of worked. Then she went online and found ZEP at Lowes and that shit took all the coated yellow crap off, came off like paint strip does. Really revitalized the floor. I'm amazed how durable this laminate is. Again, I think it's Lonseal but the boat was built in France

 
Last edited by a moderator:

DrewR

Utility Infielder
1,219
48
Buzzards Bay, MA
What are you using for underlayment? I'm in Boune MA. I've hacked it back together for now. I am still leaning towards 1/4" G10 with something over it.

 

sailman

Super Anarchist
8,334
443
Portsmouth, RI
I have ~48 sq ft so G10 would be expensive because my underpayment also supports the floor as it rests on the stringers. I have been trying to find reasonably priced composite panels with no luck. I will probably go the marine ply route but with a few layers of glass on each side first.

 

SloopJonB

Super Anarchist
70,155
13,310
Great Wet North
Good ply well sealed with epoxy will last for decades. That's basically what WEST built boat hulls are.

I've done a couple with 1/4" epoxy sealed ply as the substrate and solid teak over on one and epoxy sealed laminate flooring on the other. Both worked well. After more than 9 years the teak covered one showed no problems - the laminate one is only a year old so...... No hint of trouble yet though.

To my mind, coating it with glass will only add weight, not any more protection from rot.

 
Last edited by a moderator:




Top