Doug Lord
Super Anarchist
The lines on the sketch are just part of the illustration. With the boards partially down in the cassette the case is brought over and slides straight down until it locks. According to my cat manufacturer friend there is no structural problem-and I agree with him. I've built many foils and cases for full size boats and this is somewhat unique but structurally it is fairly simple. Again, he said that in experimental boards in a couple of classes with the board in a very outboard position like would happen with the cassette(except more so) there is the potential for ventilation and other problems. The cassette has to be maximum outboard to work and he feels that these problems would work against it. I think it might be worth trying but to do it right is very expensive because the boat has to be designed from scratch for the system.DougThe cassette system that I came up with would definitely be able to be installed "from the top"-no question about it. The downside, according to a cat manufacturer I've shown it to, is that there could be problems due to the proximity of the foil to the side of the boat. But there may be solutions to that as well.
If it is "install from the top", why do the arrows point sideways? And if you are installing it from the top, surely the "L" gets in the way. You have to bring it in sideways until the "L" is under the boat. And that means it isn't inserted from the top.
And the real issue is not to do with the proximity of the board to the side of the boat as that can be sorted out through design,. The real issue is how you build something like that strong enough to take the loads. Even in a light class like the A, the loads become pretty high - you have the weight of the boat and crew, the side loads of the c/b part working to stop sideways slip and then there is the lift element. When you have a conventional case, you brace it with bulkheads and the top and bottom work life a T section where they join the hull and the deck. Even then, you need extra reinforcement around that area and if you start foiling, you will need more. So how do you make this removable case strong enough. You cannot bolt it through the middle, or else the board won't go up and down so you have only the edges to secure it. You will need a very big flange at the top to stop the whole thing exploding and something at the bottom as well. To give you some idea of the loads, it completely smashed my top slider that was made of 10mm thick PTFE and had thickness of about 70mm either side of the daggerboard hole. I tried to break the other one through leverage with a crow bar and couldn't.
Last edited by a moderator: