I have used the Digital Yacht interface and can get one for about $300.00 on ebay (with shipping) does anyone have other suggestions on how to connect the iPad with the onboard systems? I use iNavX on the iPad and would like to do this as inexpensively as possible. I would also like it to be as portable as possible for moving from boat to boat...
NMEA 0183 to WiFi
- Thread starter ftbinc
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I just got a Digital Yacht WLN10 from Boatersland Marine for $250.02 delivered. http://www.boatersland.com/diyzdigwln10.html?gclid=CNPyiLTm2LECFaMaQgodxUUAZQ
Distance
New member
Portability will be the biggest issue as each time you change boats you will have to wire into the new boat's NMEA port and power so the installations may be different. We make a WiFi device but it is more expensive than the Digital Yacht. However it has two 0183 ports that both have configurable baud rates which would help you if you are connecting to any boats that output baud rates other than 4800. It also will broadcast to more than one mobile device. Check it out if you like: www.dmkyacht.com/inavx
svendson
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Least expensive hardware? Serial to wifi board, one that doesn't say NMEA anywhere. There are a number of shields for Arduino that would work on their own, for example, cost is typically around 100 USD. There are also a number of fairly inexpensive industrial adapters. You would need to do some configuring of the wifi and serial port through a serial terminal first though. If that sounds scary, just pay the bucks for one of the products listed above.
I got Redbox on my wish list.
http://www.mailasail.com/News/Release-Announcement-New-Red-Box-Now-Shipping
http://www.mailasail.com/News/Release-Announcement-New-Red-Box-Now-Shipping
Moonduster
Super Anarchist
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Distance,
Nice gadget. One question:
The Specification page says the box runs on 5-12V. The Reference page says 5-24V.
A 12V boat has nominal voltages as high as 15VDC. A 24V boat has nominal voltages as high as 30VDC. Based on the Specification, I can't power the box on a 12V boat. Based on the Refernece page, i can't power the box on a 24V boat.
Which page is correct and ... what's the scoop?
Thanks!
Nice gadget. One question:
The Specification page says the box runs on 5-12V. The Reference page says 5-24V.
A 12V boat has nominal voltages as high as 15VDC. A 24V boat has nominal voltages as high as 30VDC. Based on the Specification, I can't power the box on a 12V boat. Based on the Refernece page, i can't power the box on a 24V boat.
Which page is correct and ... what's the scoop?
Thanks!
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Soñadora
Super Anarchist
Soñadora
Super Anarchist
rodney_k
Member
I use one of these aboard: DiGi WI-SP. The output from my existing Brookhouse mux is connected to the WI-SP. the DiGi is a two way device so the iPad can talk to the autopilot. The device's serial port can be configured for RS-422 so will work with differential NMEA data rather than RS-232
Shipmodul Miniplex 2-WI
I have one and it can be portable e.g.
- get a length of 2 conductor wire that can be connected to a spare circuit breaker for the power;
- get additional lengths of instrument cable and tap into a NMEA 0183 output from instruments, AIS and GPS
- Use Velcro to mount it somewhere convenient.
- Power on instruments and circuit for the Mux.
- use the supplied USB cable and a Windows PC to connect PC to the mux
- Install and run the port configuration software on your PC (allows you to change baud rate in the input channels, adjust NMEA filters, turn on/off SeaTalk conversion, adjust output port configurations etc...)
- when done with the config, save the file on your PC.
- Disconnect the PC,
- Configure iPad/iPhone wifi port settings in iNavx TCP/IP settings ( Host 169.254.1.1; Port 10110; turn link on) and you're done.
I have one and it can be portable e.g.
- get a length of 2 conductor wire that can be connected to a spare circuit breaker for the power;
- get additional lengths of instrument cable and tap into a NMEA 0183 output from instruments, AIS and GPS
- Use Velcro to mount it somewhere convenient.
- Power on instruments and circuit for the Mux.
- use the supplied USB cable and a Windows PC to connect PC to the mux
- Install and run the port configuration software on your PC (allows you to change baud rate in the input channels, adjust NMEA filters, turn on/off SeaTalk conversion, adjust output port configurations etc...)
- when done with the config, save the file on your PC.
- Disconnect the PC,
- Configure iPad/iPhone wifi port settings in iNavx TCP/IP settings ( Host 169.254.1.1; Port 10110; turn link on) and you're done.
nf7z
Member
I realize I am diverging from the requirements of the original poster, and if the most 'inexpensive' solution is desired for getting data to the iPad or iPhone, ignore my proposition.
I recently installed the Raymarine e7 on my new sailboat that has the capability of mirroring its display to any iOS device, and also supports a bidirectional link to control the chart plotter as well.
admittedly, it is a more expensive solution and extreme overkill in many scenarios. however, the ~$400 cost for the serial->WiFi links seems excessive to me and restrictive when a larger boat is considered, with the potential need to remotely display not only NMEA 0183 serial data, but also NMEA 2000, Radar, Sonar, chart plotting, autopilot ... and possibly Flir IR and camera data. I think I paid ~$1200, but then, the capabilities are far greater.
for some applications the more expensive solution might be the better investment.
just thoughts ...
daniel
/monthly_08_2012/post-60320-024459600%201344651532_thumb.jpg
I recently installed the Raymarine e7 on my new sailboat that has the capability of mirroring its display to any iOS device, and also supports a bidirectional link to control the chart plotter as well.
admittedly, it is a more expensive solution and extreme overkill in many scenarios. however, the ~$400 cost for the serial->WiFi links seems excessive to me and restrictive when a larger boat is considered, with the potential need to remotely display not only NMEA 0183 serial data, but also NMEA 2000, Radar, Sonar, chart plotting, autopilot ... and possibly Flir IR and camera data. I think I paid ~$1200, but then, the capabilities are far greater.
for some applications the more expensive solution might be the better investment.
just thoughts ...
daniel
/monthly_08_2012/post-60320-024459600%201344651532_thumb.jpg
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another possibility...
i'm just guessing that maybe the portability issue arises because you are doing nav/tactics on different boats.
if you are running expedition on a laptop, with nmea into the laptop by USB (either nmea, or H-link, or whatever), you can configure another network in expedition that will send nmea back out over the laptop's wifi on an adhoc newtork.
you don't need any new hardware to do this.
iphone/ipad just connect to the adhoc network.
i do this, and it works pretty well.
i'm just guessing that maybe the portability issue arises because you are doing nav/tactics on different boats.
if you are running expedition on a laptop, with nmea into the laptop by USB (either nmea, or H-link, or whatever), you can configure another network in expedition that will send nmea back out over the laptop's wifi on an adhoc newtork.
you don't need any new hardware to do this.
iphone/ipad just connect to the adhoc network.
i do this, and it works pretty well.
Slight hijack but relevant I think.
I have three instruments I want to link-
1. A Lowrance HDS-8 plotter with broadband radar.
2. A Tacktick suite of instruments including wind functions, boat functions and compass
3. A Standard Horizon VHF that receives AIS information.
I have a freestanding Furuno GPS with WAAS that I would like to be able to integrate as a backup GPS source .
I linked the Tacktick instruments to the plotter using NMEA0183. This let the Tacktick compass provide heading information that allows the plotter to do radar overlays on the chart page, and allows the Tacktick instruments to show information from the plotter like DTW and BTW. I bought the VHF radio to provide AIS information to the plotter. When I wired it to do so using NMEA0183 wiring I was able to get AIS information to the plotter and still get plotter information to the Tacktick instruments, but I lost the ability to get the compass heading information from the Tacktick to the plotter and so lost the overlay function. I do still get gps information sent to the VHF to provide DSC capability.
My understanding is I need an NMEA multiplexer to do this job of linking multiple senders and receivers, so my interest is in a multiplexer that provides the added benefit of creating a wifi network so I can use my iPad and iNavx (I have a gen one iPad with integral gps and wifi).
So far I'm looking at the iMux. I do not have easy access to a pc laptop for programming and no expectation of wanting a laptop in the system until they use a lot less power.
I have three instruments I want to link-
1. A Lowrance HDS-8 plotter with broadband radar.
2. A Tacktick suite of instruments including wind functions, boat functions and compass
3. A Standard Horizon VHF that receives AIS information.
I have a freestanding Furuno GPS with WAAS that I would like to be able to integrate as a backup GPS source .
I linked the Tacktick instruments to the plotter using NMEA0183. This let the Tacktick compass provide heading information that allows the plotter to do radar overlays on the chart page, and allows the Tacktick instruments to show information from the plotter like DTW and BTW. I bought the VHF radio to provide AIS information to the plotter. When I wired it to do so using NMEA0183 wiring I was able to get AIS information to the plotter and still get plotter information to the Tacktick instruments, but I lost the ability to get the compass heading information from the Tacktick to the plotter and so lost the overlay function. I do still get gps information sent to the VHF to provide DSC capability.
My understanding is I need an NMEA multiplexer to do this job of linking multiple senders and receivers, so my interest is in a multiplexer that provides the added benefit of creating a wifi network so I can use my iPad and iNavx (I have a gen one iPad with integral gps and wifi).
So far I'm looking at the iMux. I do not have easy access to a pc laptop for programming and no expectation of wanting a laptop in the system until they use a lot less power.
inquiring Mind
Member
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I'm shopping this area as well. It appears to me that the Shipmodul Miniplex 2-Wi is a more versatile unit for nearly the same price. Not that I have anything against Brookhouse. I've had one of their standard Multiplexors for several years and have been satisfied.
The only issue I could see was needing a pc to program- I'm not sure what the iMux requires.
The iMux could be pre-programmed with whatever NMEA sentence filters or port configs you want if you ask Brookhouse to do it. In that way, you won't need to initially access the mux via its USB port with any PC/Laptop/notebook that can run a simple terminal program to talk to the mux like talking to a modem. The Brookhouse scripting language approach is a bit cryptic for those that don't want to wade through the instructions.
The Shipmodul's Windows configuration software is reasonably obvious to set up the ports with some light reading of the manual. The Miniplex comes with a default configuration that requires no programming at all, but at some point, you might want to use some of the features. It's pretty much "plug and play". If you ever need to update firmware, you'll need a PC/laptop/notebook
Then you need your laptop turned on for it to work. It is better to keep the wi-fi network going even when the laptop is turned off. A box like red box or others make this possible.
I agree that the option to have the laptop off is a good one.
I was just pointing out how it can be done with no new hardware, if you have expedition.
Also, the OP mentioned moving from boat to boat, so I am guessing he is a tactician or navigator, and is interested in doing this while racing.
Most boats that have expedition, run it continuously during a race.
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