Old Gori Folding Prop - Any Good?

Shu

Super Anarchist
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96
I'm cleaning out the shop and found my Dad's old Gori folding propeller.  It still looks good, with only a little bit of surface corrosion here and there. 
The problem is that it has a plastic bushing/sleeve that separates the inner part that slips over the shaft from the main outer part of the propeller, and this plastic bit appears fine, but it had deteriorated enough to allow the prop to spin relative to the shaft when under load.
 
Does this have any value to anyone?  As it is now, it is clearly UNSAFE, but I hate to throw away such a magnificent chunk of Bronze.  It is FREE if anybody has a use for it.  Sized for Laser 28.
 
I posted this in Gear Anarchy too, but thought it might see more traffic here.
 

Diarmuid

Super Anarchist
3,581
1,603
Laramie, WY, USA
Shu: that plastic sleeve is there to minimize dissimilar metals contact (as I understand it).  My Gori relies on a long key between the shaft and prop to keep it spinning on the shaft, key held in place by a set screw. Does your prop have a key slot on the inside, and a set screw about halfway up the body?

While we're on the topic: are these props any good at reversing? We've never used ours, & I'm considering whether to swap for a fixed 2- or 3-blader instead of the folding.

 

micha571

Member
323
6
Germany
I'm cleaning out the shop and found my Dad's old Gori folding propeller.  It still looks good, with only a little bit of surface corrosion here and there. 
The problem is that it has a plastic bushing/sleeve that separates the inner part that slips over the shaft from the main outer part of the propeller, and this plastic bit appears fine, but it had deteriorated enough to allow the prop to spin relative to the shaft when under load.
 
Does this have any value to anyone?  As it is now, it is clearly UNSAFE, but I hate to throw away such a magnificent chunk of Bronze.  It is FREE if anybody has a use for it.  Sized for Laser 28.
 
I posted this in Gear Anarchy too, but thought it might see more traffic here.
As it’s for a Laser 28, I suppose it is size 11,5 x 9,5 RH. These boats have a Bukh engine and saildrive, same as mine. I have one of these props lying around, too, also with a bushing that has come bit of loose, sort of. It’s not spinning, but there’s noticeable play between the inner and outer part. 

 
On the buhk dv8/10's commonly found in Laser 28's, I think the old gori prop bushing is designed to be sacrificial to avoid sail drive damage in the event of a prop wrap.  They do wear out as well.  Mine did after 25 years.  You buy a new prop, which is expensive....but not as expensive as the sail drive.  FYI - the new replacement gori props for that sail drive do not have the sacrificial bushing.   

 
Well no...I'm not sure about yours.  I was told when I purchased mine two years ago that they no longer came with the sacrificial bushing.  Perhaps I was mislead...I don't know.

 
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Shu

Super Anarchist
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Here are photos.  The corrosion is fine pitting. It is Right-hand.  

IMG_5402.JPG

IMG_5404.JPG

IMG_5406.JPG

 
My understanding is that the rubber 'bushing' is to absorb the shock to the drive gears when shifting gears. My power boat Volvo out drive has a very similar feature. Not related to corrosion.

 

Not My Real Name

Not Actually Me
43,055
2,832
Shu: that plastic sleeve is there to minimize dissimilar metals contact (as I understand it).  My Gori relies on a long key between the shaft and prop to keep it spinning on the shaft, key held in place by a set screw. Does your prop have a key slot on the inside, and a set screw about halfway up the body?

While we're on the topic: are these props any good at reversing? We've never used ours, & I'm considering whether to swap for a fixed 2- or 3-blader instead of the folding.
I have a 26" three bladed Gori on my boat.

They are sort of good at reversing, in that you can learn to make the boat go backwards. But with all the walk it has it's a bit like having a stern thruster that only pushes in one direction. That being said, it makes me look like a brilliant yacht driver when I pull up to a dock on a starboard tie-up, the way it sucks the stern right over to the dock when you burn off that last knot of speed in reverse. Though port side tie ups can be a bit of a shit show if you aren't used to it.

You can back the boat straight out of a slip, but you do best with small pulses in reverse, keeping the boat reasonably straight with the helm slightly to port to offset the prop walk.

On the whole though, I really like the Gori prop as the "overdrive" feature makes a huge difference in boat speed, and you still have decent thrust for in close maneuvering. It can be a bit finicky if you let the growth build up, so Prop Speed is your friend.

 
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Not My Real Name

Not Actually Me
43,055
2,832
My understanding is that the rubber 'bushing' is to absorb the shock to the drive gears when shifting gears. My power boat Volvo out drive has a very similar feature. Not related to corrosion.
Mine has these gummy rubber things, one behind each blade, that absorb the blow from the blades. There is also a collar zinc, and a triangular zinc on the end of it. All of which are outrageously expensive BTW.

If you put this prop in a box and mail it to AB Marine in Middletown, RI I'm sure they'd be willing to give it a once over and rebuild/replace anything that needs it. They're a Gori importer/reseller and they will have all the bits and parts needed to bring this prop back.

 

Shu

Super Anarchist
1,717
96
Mine has these gummy rubber things, one behind each blade, that absorb the blow from the blades. There is also a collar zinc, and a triangular zinc on the end of it. All of which are outrageously expensive BTW.

If you put this prop in a box and mail it to AB Marine in Middletown, RI I'm sure they'd be willing to give it a once over and rebuild/replace anything that needs it. They're a Gori importer/reseller and they will have all the bits and parts needed to bring this prop back.
I mailed it to the new owner of said prop is in Rhode Island.  He plans to see what AB marine can do, and if not he knows a guy with skills at getting bronze boat bits to work again.

 

Shu

Super Anarchist
1,717
96
BJ,

I saw Gori's video on the 3 blade prop.  Fascinating.  Of the two modes for reverse, do you notice a difference in the prop walk?

 

Shu

Super Anarchist
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96
And what the heck is a Super Anarchist?  I noticed a lot of us have become that.  Does that mean I'm no longer a whiner?

 

Not My Real Name

Not Actually Me
43,055
2,832
BJ,

I saw Gori's video on the 3 blade prop.  Fascinating.  Of the two modes for reverse, do you notice a difference in the prop walk?
I think there's only two modes going forward, and only one reverse.

Don't know what happened to the labels. I guess someone got tired of the sophomoric ones I made up a decade ago.

 

Shu

Super Anarchist
1,717
96
Yes.  Watched the video again - just one mode for reverse.  That propeller is like one of those puzzles.  I want to get my hands on one and play with it.  Or better yet take it apart... :eek:

 

fatjohnz

New member
46
0
I have the same prop on my Laser28 that Shu describes; original from 1985.
The prop has started shaking the boat and we are trying to figure out what could be causing it ie) bent shaft. prop not opening fully.
I've also started to wonder if the bushing could have deteriorated to the point that the prop is no longer firmly centered on the shaft.... ?
 




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