Old racer back to water

I heard that this is how you make your sailboat fast.

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Now when hullform is "stabilized" with deck beams, I will correct small collapse in hull near sternpost and then replace keel and sternpost itself. I decided that at this point it is better to do all work once. No need to pry everything open again just to do things I did not do at the first time.

Those parts were originally oak, but after asking some question from local professionals I might go with Iroko. Apparently it is slightly more durable wood for this purpose and while little less strong than oak, more than enough with these thicknesses. And little bit lighter, which is always plus.

 
Took rather long to come up something worth to post. First of all I picked up old Stanley for cheap as chips. It cleaned up pretty well. Did not bother to do extra polishing as this will be used for real work.

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I managed to drop sternpost away from boat. Boat did not snap in half so I guess it was success. Good choice to change sternpost as old one is certainly shot now as I can see it better. I am going to go to buy some Iroko on friday.

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I can see the light:

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2600e/M^2 converts to about $6/BF

That’s a Stanley #10 bench rabbet plane. An excellent tool for its purpose. They’re fragile at the cutouts on the sides, so be extra careful not to drop it. Better yet, save it for your sternpost and get a regular bench plane for other work. There are many on Ebay.
 
Long silence is because I first spent over week going trough local sailing competitions as crewmember of friends H-boat, results 4th/9 and 3rd/11 - not bad for inexperienced kids like us. And then I camped for a over a week catched covid and now getting rid of that.

So not much boatresto fit to this month.

2600e/M^2 converts to about $6/BF

That’s a Stanley #10 bench rabbet plane. An excellent tool for its purpose. They’re fragile at the cutouts on the sides, so be extra careful not to drop it. Better yet, save it for your sternpost and get a regular bench plane for other work. There are many on Ebay.
Yep, going to do so. I have Kunz made long cabinermakers one and short stanley bailey. Those do bulk of work.
 

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ABS Guide for Building and Classing Offshore Racing Yachts lists the allowable stress for non-laminated wood stiffening members as 0.375 x the modulus of rupture and laminated stiffening members as 0.42 x the modulus of rupture. That's just a 12% increase in strength for the laminated member.

Lloyd's Rules and Regulations for the Classification of Yachts and Small Craft (Part 2, Chapter 4, Section 4, Table 4.5.1) requires a higher section modulus for laminated frames than for bent frames after correcting for frame spacing. This indicates Lloyd's has concluded laminated frames are weaker than bent frames.
While it is true that laminated frames are stiffer, they fail with much less energy absorption. In a collision, energy absorption is important... and Lloyds yacht plans division folks are pretty smart when it comes to structures and how those structures fail.
 
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Did you get the rudder stock and stern post in?
Not yet, project has been standing a little because having too much stuff to do.

But Iroko planks are now planed and cut to be ready for gluing and drawings for rudder stock are finished. Bought 5 kg of epoxy more so tomorrow I go to glue them. After that it is time to pick up a router and chisels and start to shape that massive block of wood.

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