Painting shenanigans

iwentsailingonce

New member
35
3
Arizona
So, for starters, the nighttime low is like 25F/-4C, and daytime temps might make it to 50F/9C.

I'm painting my lightning. Trying to heat the boat has half-worked. I might just pull it and do it in a garage, but trailering the boat is not a pleasing option.

Has anyone worked with topside paint below 55F?

Also, I started painting my deck with totalboat totaltread, a one-part polyurethane paint. I have four one quart cans of awlgrip, which is a two-part polyester urethane paint, that I foolishly thought I would just paint over the non-skid with.

Can I mix the two? Can I paint back over the non-skid?

At this point I might try it. This is like $1500 of paint on a $1500 boat, and that's not including the primer, barrier coat and anti-foul.

I guess I'm mostly just wondering if anyone's done something this stupid and how it turned out? A diesel heater helped cure the totalboat enough to leave it overnight.


Cheers, and thanks in advance.
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Marty Gingras

Mid-range Anarchist
Totalboat says it can be applied as low as 45° F.

Awlgrip says, Do not apply paint materials to surfaces less than 5°F (3°C) above dew point, or to surfaces warmer than 105°F (41°C). Ambient temperature should be minimum 55°F (13°C) and maximum 105°F (41°C). At standard conditions (77˚F (25˚C), 50% R.H.), avoid applying topcoats when the temperature could drop below the dew point within 6–8 hours after the application.

I've painted a couple dozen boats and rarely flirted with less than 60° F. Best case failure will be that the Awlgrip turns out flat rather than glossy. Worse case failure is an ugly mess that requires you to start over with top coat.

What's your hurry?
 
I don’t think that Awlgrip can be applied over over a conventional one-part paint like TotalTread. Ask Awlgrip tech support. ASk them about temperature, too.

Four quarts of Awlgrip is enough to do several Lightning decks.
 

WCB

Super Anarchist
4,588
945
Park City, UT
Agreed with Diamond. Awlgrip is too fussy to be used over a one part paint like totaltread.

I'd take it to a garage. The issue is that you need it at 70deg for many hours and during this time of year you get one hour at 50deg and then it's dropping again.
 

slug zitski

Banned
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Low temp takes a long time to achieve cure

also paint viscosity is hard to control…you tend to need plenty of thinner

careful your final topcoat doesn't flash off..go dull..when the temp drops and condensation gets you before the paint reaches full cure
 

iwentsailingonce

New member
35
3
Arizona
Totalboat says it can be applied as low as 45° F.

Awlgrip says, Do not apply paint materials to surfaces less than 5°F (3°C) above dew point, or to surfaces warmer than 105°F (41°C). Ambient temperature should be minimum 55°F (13°C) and maximum 105°F (41°C). At standard conditions (77˚F (25˚C), 50% R.H.), avoid applying topcoats when the temperature could drop below the dew point within 6–8 hours after the application.

I've painted a couple dozen boats and rarely flirted with less than 60° F. Best case failure will be that the Awlgrip turns out flat rather than glossy. Worse case failure is an ugly mess that requires you to start over with top coat.

What's your hurry?

So I'm looking at the Everglades Challenge in early March, and likely sailing to the Bahamas in January. The boats in the yard are now hauped for winter so I have time. A garage would be nice, but is sort of a remote option. The totaltread seemed to do fine, we got the top to cure with the diesel heater before the frost settled and it dried it enough it actually seems to have dried okay.

It might just be a tedious process of painting one section at a time. I named the boat Inherent Vice and it seems to continue living up to it. It just won't look the way I was planning on. If you notice, that midline needed another strip-it has an offset now.


It's a good learner boat and I have to get the paint on so I can finish the refit and get the hardware back on.
 

Marty Gingras

Mid-range Anarchist
So I'm looking at the Everglades Challenge in early March, and likely sailing to the Bahamas in January. The boats in the yard are now hauped for winter so I have time. A garage would be nice, but is sort of a remote option. The totaltread seemed to do fine, we got the top to cure with the diesel heater before the frost settled and it dried it enough it actually seems to have dried okay.

It might just be a tedious process of painting one section at a time. I named the boat Inherent Vice and it seems to continue living up to it. It just won't look the way I was planning on. If you notice, that midline needed another strip-it has an offset now.


It's a good learner boat and I have to get the paint on so I can finish the refit and get the hardware back on.
That's a good reason to try. Truth be told, I like the flat/semi-gloss look and have done it purposely on an old truck and a couple of small boats. Did it by wet sanding though. Pain to keep clean.
 

slug zitski

Banned
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That's a good reason to try. Truth be told, I like the flat/semi-gloss look and have done it purposely on an old truck and a couple of small boats. Did it by wet sanding though. Pain to keep clean.
One of the reasons people like two component water based topsides paint is that the “shine” is significantly less than “ ultra shine “ awlgrip

less shine hides imperfection better and many folks like the look
 
moving the boat inside will almost certainly be less trouble that trying to paint it in the winter elements. i, personally, would never consider using one-part paint as it not only is solvent soluable but it also can't be top-coated with two part paint. and fyi, you don't have to use awlgrip if you intend on spraying it. any 2-part auto paint will work fine
 

iwentsailingonce

New member
35
3
Arizona
Well,

I've learned a lot. Frost will ruin a finish. You get the finish you prepare. Tip vertical not horizontal. It will run if you use too much and leave it. I spent more time sanding the deck smooth than the topsides then painted it with the non-skid. She looks good from a distance far enough you can't see the bubbles in the cockpit, my hand painted lines with a 2 1/2 brush or the matte finish after they got a hard frost, the haziness in the topsides and the faint texture underneath, the few places I missed with the brush rolling and tipping at midnight...

I built a 2x4 and plastic sheet enclosure and heated with a torpedo heater. I would paint and keep it as hot as I could as long as I could. I went through almost 50gal of diesel in the heater, but I did two coats all around. I still have to touch up below the wl with antifoul, and nonskid some places, but it came out exponentially better than it was.

Thanks all.

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