Piper OD .. dayboat

Alan H

Super Anarchist
3,247
636
SF Bay Area
Hmph.  I went with Petit EZ-Poxy as my paint choice. The hull is their Sea Foam green, and I was gonna do the decks and interior in Fighting Lady Yellow.  I have a quart of the yellow.  The thing is, I need to add a flattening agent, but it appears that Petit no longer sells their satin additive. GRRR.

So I suppose I can use that stuff on the inside of the hull, where if it's glossy it won't blind me. I'll have to go with Interlux...their Fighting Lady Yellow, 'cause they still market a flattening agent.

 

The Q

Super Anarchist
Yes you'll be feeling the relief I got after launching my boat a few weeks ago after about 5years rebuild. And ... My forestay halyard keeps becoming loose, and the shrouds need more tension..

Good luck with your setting up trials..

 

Fleetwood

Member
130
27
Sydney, Oz
Hmph.  I went with Petit EZ-Poxy as my paint choice. The hull is their Sea Foam green, and I was gonna do the decks and interior in Fighting Lady Yellow.  I have a quart of the yellow.  The thing is, I need to add a flattening agent, but it appears that Petit no longer sells their satin additive. GRRR.

So I suppose I can use that stuff on the inside of the hull, where if it's glossy it won't blind me. I'll have to go with Interlux...their Fighting Lady Yellow, 'cause they still market a flattening agent.
Any mfrs flattening agent will do, they are chemically inert.

 

Jud - s/v Sputnik

Super Anarchist
5,812
1,486
Canada
Mask non-skid areas; apply 1st coat of your choice of deck paint (2-pack if compatible with existing surface); sprinkle non-skid additive over the paint while still wet, putting more in worn areas; let dry, vacuum or brush off excess; apply 2nd coat. Done.

(The masking takes most time.)
I’m doing this right now with my chain locker lid.  But I’m using crushed walnut shells from the local paint store.  Cheap, and very grippy.  $150 for a gallon/3.8 litres of 2-part polyurethane low-gloss from a local store here.  Good quality industrial-type paint at a fraction of Interlux Perfection 2-part polyurethane cost!  And no thinnning or flattening required!

One coat on (after masking), then sprinkle crushed shells.  Follow with two more coats.  Still very rough/grippy after two coats.

(The stainless steel is a chain striker I added to address the problem of the anchor chain abrading the old/original glued on Vetus non-skid...it was so ruined, I had to strip it all off and do my own non-skid and add that piece of stainless.)

4C858E22-BB9F-40FC-8EF9-CE1A3A2DB93E.jpeg

 
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Alan H

Super Anarchist
3,247
636
SF Bay Area
Jud-s/v Sputnik, we used latex paint and walnut shells on the marine science education boat that I worked on back in the 90's. But then, the plywood deck was covered in Arabol and yellowjacket.  Try to find Arabol any more.

 

Fleetwood

Member
130
27
Sydney, Oz
I’m doing this right now with my chain locker lid.  But I’m using crushed walnut shells from the local paint store.  Cheap, and very grippy.  $150 for a gallon/3.8 litres of 2-part polyurethane low-gloss from a local store here.  Good quality industrial-type paint at a fraction of Interlux Perfection 2-part polyurethane cost!  And no thinnning or flattening required!

One coat on (after masking), then sprinkle crushed shells.  Follow with two more coats.  Still very rough/grippy after two coats.

(The stainless steel is a chain striker I added to address the problem of the anchor chain abrading the old/original glued on Vetus non-skid...it was so ruined, I had to strip it all off and do my own non-skid and add that piece of stainless.)

View attachment 510846
Looks very grippy!

I used the International non-skid, very fine and makes the surface like sandpaper....

 

Alan H

Super Anarchist
3,247
636
SF Bay Area
The old delaminated bulkhead is now cut out and the new one fitted into place. The old one was straight across the top. I cut this one in "V" which will give me better access to the back of the boat. I still need to get some epoxy/mat into the old tabbing and bond it to the bulkhead, but one side is glassed in. I'll get the rest of it next time, after I get some appropriate clamps. You can see the blocks and lines for the adjustable backstay behind the bulkhead.

IMG_7318-small.JPG
 

Alan H

Super Anarchist
3,247
636
SF Bay Area
The boat seriously needs to get vacuumed out, to pull all the old paint chips and dust outta there. I need to get one of those flapper wheels that goes on a drill and attack a few feet of the part under the aft deck, behind the bulkhead. I want to strip the old crap off and get some new paint in there.
Oh, the old winches are out, leaving holes to fill. The deck is crazy thick. Once the holes are filled I can mount the "new" (used....) Harken single speed self-tailers.

IMG_7321-small-adj.JPG
 

Alan H

Super Anarchist
3,247
636
SF Bay Area
Bulkhead is now in. Holes from the previous winches are filled and sealed with a plywood/mat "backing plate" in the area. Next Saturday, the "new-to-her" winches go on. Once that's done then she's really ready-to-sail "for real". Here's some little stuff left to do, whenever I get around to it:

1.) add a spinnaker foreguy attachment point on the foredeck and add a cleat for it at the front of the cockpit.
2.) Add a front piece to the boom tent/cockpit cover that will attach to the point in #1 and cover the front of the cockpit as well as covering the luff of the mainsail, on the boom. Gotta do this before I order a new mainsail.
3.) make a real boom crutch to replace the improvised one that's there, now. I have the pole and wood piece cut out, already
4.) replace spinny halyard and topping lift, gee maybe I'll buy a used spinnaker
5.) scrub the foredeck and clean up the dirt that pressure washing didn't get off
6.) sand and oil the trim wood
7.) anti-skid and paint the deck, bring a little brush in and paint the little detail bits of the hull that didn't get done with the roller and tipping brush
8.) paint the inside of the hull and whatever amount of under-deck fiberglass that I feel like doing.

All of which is good, but honestly, once the new winches are in, she's totally sail-able. white sails only for now.
 

Alan H

Super Anarchist
3,247
636
SF Bay Area
Alpha now has "new to her" winches. I got these, used, years ago for another purpose but they're just Alpha-sized. After sailing with them for a few hours, I realize that I'll need to move the line stripping arm on the starboard one. The Port one is OK. I took them all apart (obviously!) before installing so everything is now cleaned, greased, oiled and smooth. That should last for a while, and it's a big upgrade from the old bronze ones.
After that job was finished, my buddy Richard and I went for a 6-hour daysail. It was wonderful.
Today I took the numbers off of the jib I'm using and spent two hours with mineral spirits getting all the goo off. You can still see where they were but I'll disguise the area by laying the real Alpha sail number on top.

new winches.jpg
 

Fleetwood

Member
130
27
Sydney, Oz
Today I took the numbers off of the jib I'm using and spent two hours with mineral spirits getting all the goo off. You can still see where they were but I'll disguise the area by laying the real Alpha sail number on top.
Rubbing cornstarch over any adhesive remaining can get rid of its stickyness.
 

Alan H

Super Anarchist
3,247
636
SF Bay Area
So I'm just back from 20 days in Scotland. I'm too old to compete in the Scottish Games any more so this trip focused on visiting places that I couldn't get to in 2014. Lots of hiking was involved. However the trip was capped by sailing in the Piper national championships, sailed out of the Royal Gourock Yacht Club, on the Clyde. The boat I was on was based out of the Holy Loch Sailing Club in Sandbank, on the other side of the estuary. We did pretty rotten in the standings but had a blast. I had a hell of a time figuring out how NOT to tie the fixed-wire-on-a-slider topping lift into knots with the spinnaker sheets, and in race 2 on day one created such a snakes mating dance that we had to retire. Day Two went better at my end of the cockpit.
Everybody was super nice. It was a sunny, light air weekend with extremely nice people and I had a blast. I also learned what the mystery piece of wood that I could never figure out, was for.....I need two, and they're sliding brackets for the helm seat.

Here's a pic of the fleet, sailing through the mooring field in front of the RC.

PiperChamps from racedeck 1.jpg
 

Alan H

Super Anarchist
3,247
636
SF Bay Area
I'm on the baby-blue hull in the middle of the main cluster. I'm probably cursing and messing around with the kite trying to figure out why it won't go up. The Club uses both Etchells and Pipers as club boats, so those are etchells scattered throughout the mooring field.
I don't have a digital photo of the boat I was on, but there's a printed shot of us with the nylon flying to prove that I did get the thing off the deck and up into the wind at least once. Instead of showing that, here's a pretty shot of a Piper (for sale) on her mooring, which is roughly the same color as Alpha.

Green-Piper@Gourock.JPG
 
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