Project Anarchy

Ozee Adventure

Super Anarchist
Got a table & chairs which would be fine with a little TLC as in stain/paint/limewash (no decision yet) etc.

When something cold is put on the table a pale mark appears - I'm presuming this is only the finish reacting to the cold glass etc & once I sand it down it will be fine.

Any comments? I can do pics.

If its terminal I might as well just paint it whIte

 

Owen

Super Anarchist
1,969
66
Camarillo
Got a table & chairs which would be fine with a little TLC as in stain/paint/limewash (no decision yet) etc.
When something cold is put on the table a pale mark appears - I'm presuming this is only the finish reacting to the cold glass etc & once I sand it down it will be fine.

Any comments? I can do pics.

If its terminal I might as well just paint it whIte

Your table is obviously haunted, and that's a different project. I did hear from a person the other day that white wicker patio furniture is best treated with elmers glue mixed with water as a whitewash and strengthener.

Now I'll hijack, since your subject line leaves lots of room for projectic license...

how the f-diddli-oom-bop-boom do I get baseboard to adhere reasonably to a fifties-era plaster wall that curves and twists as much as Ozee's avatar? nailing to the studs and plate still leaves twists and gaps and I'm wondering if there are some tricks.

thanks.

 

OceanBien

Super Anarchist
2,542
2
Look under and all around to see if there is a label that says, "No Owner Serviceable Parts"!

Copyrighted_Image_Reuse_Prohibited_308000.jpg


 
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T22

Super Anarchist
Got a table & chairs which would be fine with a little TLC as in stain/paint/limewash (no decision yet) etc.
When something cold is put on the table a pale mark appears - I'm presuming this is only the finish reacting to the cold glass etc & once I sand it down it will be fine.

Any comments? I can do pics.

If its terminal I might as well just paint it whIte

Your table is obviously haunted, and that's a different project. I did hear from a person the other day that white wicker patio furniture is best treated with elmers glue mixed with water as a whitewash and strengthener.

Now I'll hijack, since your subject line leaves lots of room for projectic license...

how the f-diddli-oom-bop-boom do I get baseboard to adhere reasonably to a fifties-era plaster wall that curves and twists as much as Ozee's avatar? nailing to the studs and plate still leaves twists and gaps and I'm wondering if there are some tricks.

thanks.
First, yes, that table is FUBAR'd. Get a coaster.

Second, PL Premium will stick anything to anything else, and be 600% stronger.

Maybe this reply should be in the PUI thread.

 

Wreck™

Wreck™
4,607
12
40N 75W
Got a table & chairs which would be fine with a little TLC as in stain/paint/limewash (no decision yet) etc.
When something cold is put on the table a pale mark appears - I'm presuming this is only the finish reacting to the cold glass etc & once I sand it down it will be fine.

Any comments? I can do pics.

If its terminal I might as well just paint it whIte
Waterproof finish Ozee, the current finish is now absorbing water as you well know.

However, you probably have no idea what finish the original "craftsman" used, mixing chemical wood finishes is risky at best.

Strip the wood down and apply the finish of your choice, I like matte finish sanded epoxy, it lasts forever.

 

Ozee Adventure

Super Anarchist
Got a table & chairs which would be fine with a little TLC as in stain/paint/limewash (no decision yet) etc.
When something cold is put on the table a pale mark appears - I'm presuming this is only the finish reacting to the cold glass etc & once I sand it down it will be fine.

Any comments? I can do pics.

If its terminal I might as well just paint it whIte
Waterproof finish Ozee, the current finish is now absorbing water as you well know.

However, you probably have no idea what finish the original "craftsman" used, mixing chemical wood finishes is risky at best.

Strip the wood down and apply the finish of your choice, I like matte finish sanded epoxy, it lasts forever.
The marks go again in about 30-60 mins you think its sucking in water?

There is no evidence of any swellings or anything.

I thought epxoy was glue - I'll investigate

TVM!

 

Ozee Adventure

Super Anarchist
Got a table & chairs which would be fine with a little TLC as in stain/paint/limewash (no decision yet) etc.
When something cold is put on the table a pale mark appears - I'm presuming this is only the finish reacting to the cold glass etc & once I sand it down it will be fine.

Any comments? I can do pics.

If its terminal I might as well just paint it whIte

Your table is obviously haunted, and that's a different project. I did hear from a person the other day that white wicker patio furniture is best treated with elmers glue mixed with water as a whitewash and strengthener.

Now I'll hijack, since your subject line leaves lots of room for projectic license...

how the f-diddli-oom-bop-boom do I get baseboard to adhere reasonably to a fifties-era plaster wall that curves and twists as much as Ozee's avatar? nailing to the studs and plate still leaves twists and gaps and I'm wondering if there are some tricks.

thanks.
Yup... that wa the intention :)

 

pippi

Anarchist
956
0
Hell
Ours do that too. I have used Liquid Gold on a couple and that stopped it. But, I will eventually have to suck it up and redo them.

I have a question, still on the same subject. Does anyone know how to get mothball smell out of a cedar chest? (No, I didn't put mothballs in a cedar chest, some idiot WAY before I got the chest did.)

 
Ours do that too. I have used Liquid Gold on a couple and that stopped it. But, I will eventually have to suck it up and redo them.I have a question, still on the same subject. Does anyone know how to get mothball smell out of a cedar chest? (No, I didn't put mothballs in a cedar chest, some idiot WAY before I got the chest did.)
I wouldn't say this is the "best" way but it worked for me. We also got an old cedar chest with an odiferous aire. Moth Balls are saturated with camphor oil and has displaced the natural cedar oils that repel insects and leave that desirable cedar smell. I sanded very lightly with 180 grit sandpaper to open up the pores. Then wiped a small amount of acetone on the wood to re-solvate the camphor oil. Acetone flashes off very quickly and basically kick-starts the camphor oil (moth balls) evaporation again. I left it in the garage for a couple of days with a fan blowing indirectly across the interior. That took care of most of the smell, but there was some left. So, then I lined the bottom with newspaper and loaded it up with charcoal and closed the lid for a few days. That leached out a great deal too. There was a slight residual smell remaining; I bought some cedar oil and wiped the surface down to replenish the natural cedar oils that were so desirable in the first place. No detectable smell and nice clean interior. Good luck.

 

Crank Boy

Super Anarchist
1,640
0
Ours do that too. I have used Liquid Gold on a couple and that stopped it. But, I will eventually have to suck it up and redo them.I have a question, still on the same subject. Does anyone know how to get mothball smell out of a cedar chest? (No, I didn't put mothballs in a cedar chest, some idiot WAY before I got the chest did.)

take a dump in it and close the lid

 




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