Rate Your Bottom Paint!

I am repainting next season and want to choose the best paint.  We are stripping and barrier coating the bottom first.  Boat will live on a mooring and get scrubbed every two to three weeks.  We will be racing beer can races and day sailing on weekends.

I have always liked VC offshore, but am open to other options.

Please share your experience with these paints and tell me which you think is the best for Mass Bay/Cape Cod/RI.

  • Baltoplate -tried and true.
  • VC Offshore - tried and true
  • Black Widow 
  • CuKote
  • Other?

Grateful to all who respond,

Stealy

 

SimonGH

Member
381
80
Westbrook CT
My boat launched last June by the dealer in Buzzards Bay with the very inexpensive HRT Unepoxy from Petit (the regular stuff).  I'm in the LI sound in CT so not far off from you.

It was spotless when hauled in October.  I was actually really impressed!  $90/gallon!
I lightly scuffed and repainted with HRT Unepoxy premium for this season as I'm planning on staying in the water this winter.

https://www.pettitpaint.com/products/antifouling-bottom-paint/hrt/premium-hrt/

I've also had luck with total boat Spartan from Johnstown Distributors but that's more $$$.

Since you're stripping then you don't have any compatibility issues...

 
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slug zitski

Super Anarchist
5,282
900
worldwide
I am repainting next season and want to choose the best paint.  We are stripping and barrier coating the bottom first.  Boat will live on a mooring and get scrubbed every two to three weeks.  We will be racing beer can races and day sailing on weekends.

I have always liked VC offshore, but am open to other options.

Please share your experience with these paints and tell me which you think is the best for Mass Bay/Cape Cod/RI.

  • Baltoplate -tried and true.
  • VC Offshore - tried and true
  • Black Widow 
  • CuKote
  • Other?

Grateful to all who respond,

Stealy
If you have an aluminum sail drive or an aluminum rudder bearing….. do not use copper oxide antifoul 

 

slug zitski

Super Anarchist
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worldwide
Your rudder bearing has no zinc

saildrives mandate that non copper oxide paint be used on the bottom of the boat

https://www.yanmar.com/us/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/MSA2010-007_Saildrive-Corrosion.pdf

”Anti- fouling paint containing cooper should not be used on the drive or the hull bottom. The Interlux Trilux 33 paint system (https://secure.international-coatings.com/pds/yacht/GB_ISO_I_5000396.htm) or equivalents are suitable coatings to use.  “

 

climenuts

Anarchist
689
276
PNW
I've got Micron CSC on my boat in BC.

Boat lives in the water year-round and gets scrubbed monthly. No hard growth at all but slime shows up in a week or two. Previous paint job was pushing 3 years old when replaced and the soft growth was out of control. Standard is every two years here.

Ablative seems like the right call for our use case and we're limited on selection due to Canadian restrictions. Would've preferred Micron CSC Extra for the slime protection but couldn't source it with the border closed. Can't use Micron 66 because of the freshwater runoff we have here: We're regularly in water fresh enough to kill saltwater fish in under an hour which I think would kill Micron 66 and a lot of other paints.

 

SloopJonB

Super Anarchist
67,029
11,510
Great Wet North
I use CSC as well - it works very well here.

But...

You should survey people who sail in the same waters you do rather than an international forum like this - what works well in one place will not necessarily be effective in a different environment.

 

MikeJohns

Member
478
123
Hobart
..........saildrives mandate that non copper oxide paint be used on the bottom of the boat

https://www.yanmar.com/us/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/MSA2010-007_Saildrive-Corrosion.pdf

”Anti- fouling paint containing cooper should not be used on the drive or the hull bottom. The Interlux Trilux 33 paint system (https://secure.international-coatings.com/pds/yacht/GB_ISO_I_5000396.htm) or equivalents are suitable coatings to use.  “
Regarding a sail-drive leg:  Copper oxide is ok just don't use unoxidized copper based. There was a lot of overcautious advice around about using oxide but now there's enough validated research on this topic.

Alloy hulls also now routinely use copper oxide based AF paints with no problems. The issue has been confounded over the years with various reports blaming Cu2O paints for galvanic corrosion when there were other root causes.

Still the advice remains that all alloy should be coated prior to antifouling and should always have zincs fitted (in seawater).

 

slug zitski

Super Anarchist
5,282
900
worldwide
Regarding a sail-drive leg:  Copper oxide is ok just don't use unoxidized copper based. There was a lot of overcautious advice around about using oxide but now there's enough validated research on this topic.

Alloy hulls also now routinely use copper oxide based AF paints with no problems. The issue has been confounded over the years with various reports blaming Cu2O paints for galvanic corrosion when there were other root causes.

Still the advice remains that all alloy should be coated prior to antifouling and should always have zincs fitted (in seawater).
Copper oxide paint overloads your anodes and attacks any exposed aluminum

the typical exposed   aluminum on modern boats are the lower rudder bearing, rudder stock  and saildrive assembly 

International Tri lux and others that use cuprous thiocyanate instead of  cuprous oxide are good paint for modern boats 

I grow tired of cutting out bearing sockets and replacing eroded rudder stocks on copper oxide boats 

 
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Max Rockatansky

holy fuckfarts!
3,680
898
You should survey people who sail in the same waters you do rather than an international forum like this - what works well in one place will not necessarily be effective in a different environment.
Bingo. Ask the local bottom cleaning divers.

As to saildrive legs: Yanmar and Volvo are different animals, not only in regards the mechanics but the isolation. Yanmar… doesn’t. Volvo isolates in several ways.

(FYI I have a pair of Volvo saildrives dating from 1992. My MO is heavy barrier coating and the recommended VIVID paint. I also periodically check for continuity.) My hulls are TRINIDAD but I am not in your area.

SeaHawk Islands paint is TBT, banned most of the world and in fact illegal to have in the States, @SASSAFRASS I do not do biz with the morally bankrupt if I can help it. Fuck SeaHawk.

 

MikeJohns

Member
478
123
Hobart
Copper oxide paint overloads your anodes and attacks any exposed aluminum

the typical exposed   aluminum on modern boats are the lower rudder bearing, rudder stock  and saildrive assembly 

International Tri lux and others that use cuprous thiocyanate instead of  cuprous oxide are good paint for modern boats 

I grow tired of cutting out bearing sockets and replacing eroded rudder stocks on copper oxide boats
It's an urban myth.  Copper oxide will not deplete your anodes. There's no mechanism for it to occur the oxide is inert. It makes no difference to hull sea water potentials.

Several tests on bare aluminium 5083 panels using Cu2O antifouling are available,  they prove there's no significant issue.  Jotun for example will send you a study if you contact them. They now actively recommend copper oxide antifouling as suitable for Al. alloys. When paint manufacturers start doing that they fully expose themselves to liability. Which should say something.

Alloy rudder stocks should always be connected to an anode. Not to do so is poor practice, ditto metal rudder bearing housings. They are too close to the dissimilar stern gear metals not to be protected. Any internal conduction path leads to the galvanic erosion of the alloy. If zincs are fitted they will erode first and indicate a problem long before damage occurs.

There's a lot of generally accepted practice in the leisure boat industry that's far from best practice.

 

George Dewey

Super Anarchist
2,071
118
Charleston, SC
In Rhode Island, I owned three big boats. The first had a bottom job and got Baltoplate. The second had a bottom job and got Black Widow. The third I just recently bought and it came with VC Offshore. The Baltoplate was a great hard smooth finish and it held up for years. It had practically no anti-fouling capability and needed frequent cleaning by a diver who used the white doodlepad and a very light touch. It was good paint for racing and I got years of service from the initial painting. 

The Black Widow was also a nice hard, smooth paint. It was in the same slip as the boat with Baltoplate but the diver was very happy to dive it just every other week. He was very impressed with the anti-fouling capability. However the instructions are confusing. On the one hand it claims to be a hard paint, but it also says it sheds a little bit and should get one thin coat added each season. I used it for several seasons without recoating and it worked great, then I sold the boat.

My current boat has VC Offshore, but I have not had it long enough to say, except that I think Baltoplate and VC Offshore are the same thing now:

https://www.interlux.com/en/us/boat-paint/antifouling/baltoplate

But the Baltoplate used to come in a different can and have a more brassy color. The VC Offshore on my current boat looked good after hauling last season, and I didn't add a coat.

 
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