Refurb 1988 Moody 376

Marcjsmith

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My 376 came with a bimini and dodger.  Going to build a new bimini.  The orginal bimini was only two bows and it had to be connected to the dodger to work. In other words, its not freestanding and it was too low, my head was rubbing.

So my plan was to res-use the existing two bows, and have a 3rd bow made with longer legs to use as my main bow.
I want to go strapless. The main bow(aft) will have a support that leads aft. Then I will have a folding strut that leads from the aft bow to the forward bow to hold it out in place. This is being done so I won't have to have any straps pulling the front bow forward. Which would result in some gymnastics to get in and out of the cockpit. the third pic, the yellow line indicates approximately where the folding strut will be located

the other reason for having/wanting the solid supports. is such that I can stow the Bimini in place against the aft bow and fold it up out of the way when not in use. the previous bimini if I did not want to use it. I would have to disconnect the main sheet lay the bimini down on the deck and then reconnect the main sheet.

Finally I got my bow bent and was able to purchase an extra 16' of straight tubes.

Saturday wasn't the best day. we had rain, we had snow flurries, gusting to 30knts. I finally wrapped up when my tubing cutter stopped working after the first cut...

the frame is assembled, the aft support bar is in place. the center lines were marked with sharpie and then covered in tape. we've got the bow supports screwed to the deck. so I still have 5 more tubes to cut. then I can start making patterns. Provided the wind is low this weekend.

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Marcjsmith

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Went up the stick yesterday for a vhf antenna replacement and installed a block for a spinnaker halyard, painted some por15on the fuel tank before I put new sound insulation on it.

today was Bimini day.  Spent most of the day behind a sewing machine and a hot knife,  minor distraction from food, F1 and the masters, other wise   I may have gotten finished.

need to sew the zippered pockets and the perimeter binding.  About 2 more hours..

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Marcjsmith

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so I took one of the corridor sole panels and started sanding (very carefully)

I don't really have any great pics of the cabin sole before . but if you look at the first pic you can see what I'm dealing with

the old varnish sanded well I going to try some stripper and oxalic acid and then a final sand to do a final clean up before I varnish.  Would bleach help? 

I have a couple dark lines in the holly. and I'm seeing some wavy lines in the teak. I'm thinking that wavy lines might be saw marks from the veneer process, and they likley will disappear once varnish gets applied

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Slick470

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I used Te-Ka teak cleaner on ours. It's a two part cleaner and it really helped even out the colors and make it look a lot more consistent. I went with the approach that since I was refinishing the sole on a 30 year old boat it didn't need to be perfect, just better. I also chose to finish with a rubbed-effect varnish for the final coats since I figured that gloss would be more likely to show any imperfections.  

 

Marcjsmith

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@slick470 I hadn't even considered going with semigloss, rubbed or matte finish...  any reason to not use a spar varnish.  I know that the sole is under cover and protected,  but it still on a boat and its always a less than ideal environment than a home....

 
Those "saw marks" are interesting.  They might actually be planer marks but if you have sanded flat, down to the wood, they look like they could be medullary rays that are common in oak and other hardwoods.  I know rays aren't a predominant feature in teak (as opposed to in white oak) but understand they are common in some species of teak.  Rays are just thin walled cells that form in hardwoods in long strings, permitting the transport of water more or less perpendicular to the grain.   If those are natural features and not saw marks, sealant with the right tint might bring out the contrast nicely - those remind me of cherry.  Not sure how to distinguish rays from saw or planer marks, haven't had to deal with that...     

 

Marcjsmith

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@Lex Teredo I'm hesitant to sand too much more.    I might try to use a block sander with some 220 over the areas and see if it reduces the effect.  once finished its going to look much better...

 
"The effect."  LOL.  Woodworkers will pay up to 2-3 times the price per board foot to get wood with nice rays in it, as it usually has to be quartersawn, which produces a lot of dust and scrap, it's not an efficient use of hardwood logs.  Most wood people wouldn't use boards with nice rays for veneer for floors though, except perhaps on extremely high end boats, though a boatyard worker might just lay down whatever veneer is handy.  If it is rays they won't disappear easily.  Might want to start on a small test area first.  Either way, I hope you get it to where you want it.  

Unrelated, I've been really enjoying this thread. Keep it up, she's beautiful. 

 
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Slick470

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@slick470 I hadn't even considered going with semigloss, rubbed or matte finish...  any reason to not use a spar varnish.  I know that the sole is under cover and protected,  but it still on a boat and its always a less than ideal environment than a home....
It's been long enough now, that I don't recall the exact reasoning why I chose what I did, but I used one of the Epiphanes high-build varnishes that you don't need to sand between coats for the build/and fill coats and then used their rubbed effect for the final coats.  I really like the finished look. I can see a few dents and a few minor darker spots, but it's a sole that is going to get new dings and dents and I don't feel like I need to baby it. 

 

Marcjsmith

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@Lex Teredo  not a carpenter by trade,  but yeah I get what you are saying.  It gives the wood unique character....

not sure if an 88 moody was considered high end back in the day.

We'll see what happens.  the other two boards in the passageway  used to be one large piece of sole. I cut them into 3 to make it easier to handle and access the bilge.  somethings on this boat  just weren't quite thought out so well.  this area will be my "test area"  figure small enough that I can pull a board down every week and get it clean up and done take back to the boat,  grab another one.  wash rinse repeat...

I've really enjoyed the project, and I'm glad that you folks have been along for the ride...

 

Marcjsmith

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two coats after cleaning with oxalic acid and a light sanding. using helmsman clear satin urethane

first pic is first coat tacky, second pic is second coat still wet. flowed out nicely but when I went to check on it this morning. it looked a lot like the first coat. the wood really sucked in the urethane.

letting it sit for 12 -18 hours I'll then do a light sand and two quick coats with a couple hours between coats and then let sit for another 12-18 hours

using a foam brush for the initial coats. might move to a proper brush for the final coats... that being said, finish doesn't need to be perfect for the floor

I did clean and sand the underside as well.  it was like a sponge taking the urethane in...

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SloopJonB

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using a foam brush for the initial coats. might move to a proper brush for the final coats...

View attachment 505904
The other way around works better IME - "proper brushes", tend to lay on more varnish but the good foam ones lay down a smoother coat than even the best badger ones.

I like that model in the background - do you know of any suppliers of bits like scale winches for yacht modelers?

 

Marcjsmith

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Still torn on the rays...  definitly adds a unique appearance.  will be interesting to see how the other two boards look

I got rid of all my RC boats but  my wooden star 45.  Ive been helping a guy work on this Robbe Atlantis.  trying to get it sailing again.

https://www.newcapmaquettes.com/Fittings.html

Dean derusha is making minature harken bits   no website does does have a face book presence.  

https://www.facebook.com/MiniatureHarken/

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Schnappi

Member
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145
Still torn on the rays...  definitly adds a unique appearance.  will be interesting to see how the other two boards look

I got rid of all my RC boats but  my wooden star 45.  Ive been helping a guy work on this Robbe Atlantis.  trying to get it sailing again.

https://www.newcapmaquettes.com/Fittings.html

Dean derusha is making minature harken bits   no website does does have a face book presence.  

https://www.facebook.com/MiniatureHarken/

Holy crap. 

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Slick470

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Virginia
I had pretty good luck getting even coats with the varnish by rolling on coats to get even coverage and then using foam brushes to get it to lay down. I found it easier covering larger areas that way. Basically this guy's method.




 

See Level

Working to overcome my inner peace
Still torn on the rays...  definitly adds a unique appearance.  will be interesting to see how the other two boards look

I got rid of all my RC boats but  my wooden star 45.  Ive been helping a guy work on this Robbe Atlantis.  trying to get it sailing again.

https://www.newcapmaquettes.com/Fittings.html

Dean derusha is making minature harken bits   no website does does have a face book presence.  

https://www.facebook.com/MiniatureHarken/

That one looks familiar

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Marcjsmith

Super Anarchist
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1,135
Washington DC
Well I guess I have another project to work on. Night/day difference on the sole boards.  Olds vs new

    Also started working on new sound insulation in the engine compartment. 

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