Refurb 1988 Moody 376

[Marcjsmith]

Well in the vein of. “That sucks”. I reinstalled the water pump with a new impeller, fired up the engine, and then promptly added af to the raw water side to winterize.... only to find out the water pump leaking. Upon closer inspection I can see a rubber seal on the shaft that not in the right position.

On the plus side, I was getting some water in the engine bay and I was concerned that I was getting a bad seal on my pass dripless shaft seal. Maybe the water pump has been leaking and I was attributing the leak to the pss and not the water pump.

Hopefully the pump is rebuildable.

 

[Marcjsmith]

Two marelon seacock /thruhull one hull mounted zinc and a new raw water pump.

The rw pump the bearing seized to the shaft and the 20 ton press at work failed to remove the bearing and I ended up damaging the shaft So out with the jabsco and in with the Johnson pump.

 

[Marcjsmith]

I f$&/king love vinyl tape. Two years of soloing dock rash Gone.

 

[Marcjsmith]

Been neglectful about posting..... new raw water pump installed, finished plumbing up the marelon thruhulls and reinstalled the aft head.

Cleaned up prop, shaft and p bracket. In preparation for application of prop glide once we get some warm weather

When I was digging around in the aft cabin, noticed that the cable clamps on the quadrant were looking a bit dodgy, so tackled that. Noticed the one of cables had some slack and upon closer inspection, the sheave had fallen off the bushing as a result of a broken retaining clip. Could have ended poorly...

After cleaning up the engine bay on the last trip, noticed a few ounces of fuel under the engine. So I guess I’ve got some fuel dripping. Wiped everything down good and sprayed some carb cleaner and strategically placed some paper towels around the fuel lines, fuel pumps, filters to see if I can figure out where it’s coming from. Ruled out the fuel tank as it would drip into a different part of the bilge.

 

[Marcjsmith]

found the fuel leak. a hard line that runs from the lift pump to the engine mounted fuel filter. drip drip. took it apart, rubber o ring. pack of 2 50 cents. leak problem solved. love it when the fixes are cheap.

finally got around the ripping up the few square feet of carpet on board, should have done it sooner. just have to remove the adhesive that was left behind... I have some 2'x2' carpet squares from an office renovation that are going to get trimmed and not quite so liberally glued down.

finally got around to cutting a gap in the mid ship chocks need to finish filing the edges down though

new to me Hood main at bacons going under the knife.
new me North Genoa under the knife (at home)
New to me North Asym soon to be going under the knife (at home)

question (for some reason I feel that Ive asked this question before)...hull/deck joint. I'm not seeing any water/leak nor do I want any. Should I chase out some of the cracked and dry rotted spooge and inject something back into the gap? If so what 4200, sikaflex 591, latex caulk or just roll up some butyl into long strings and jam it in the gap. ounce of cure/pound of protection type thing...

 

[SloopJonB]

question (for some reason I feel that Ive asked this question before)...hull/deck joint. I'm not seeing any water/leak nor do I want any. Should I chase out some of the cracked and dry rotted spooge and inject something back into the gap? If so what 4200, sikaflex 591, latex caulk or just roll up some butyl into long strings and jam it in the gap. ounce of cure/pound of protection type thing...


View attachment 574945

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

[Marcjsmith]

@SloopJonB probably not even the deck/hull joint ooze likely toe rail ooze if I don't do it now it won't ever be an issue until my head is level with the sheer line while off the boat. which might not be for another couple years when I'm back on the hard. or while I'm trying to claw my way back aboard after the wife has pushed me over.

definitly not looking to make more work for myself it will likley eat up 2 hours.

 

[Marcjsmith]

80 grit scuff, then 1.75 gallons of micron csc. Two coats on the waterline for two roller widths, two coats in the rudder, plus a propglide application. One qt reserved for the pads where the current stands are and to touch up one spot where i had to make a gelcoat repair on the rudder... any extra paint will go on keel, rudder and bow

No blisters...not even a hint

Only exterior work, beyond normal spring cleaning, to do is wax on wax off before splash.

Might be able to splash a week or so early....

 

[Marcjsmith]

Wax on wax off. Final few “on the hard” chores done splash set for March 15.

And Removed the old carpet from the aft cabin and cleaned up the glue to prep for new carpet

 

[ropetrick]

Hull looks nice.

Cabin looks good. I can smell the removal thru the tubes of the internet.

Are you sure that it needs new carpet?

 

[SloopJonB]

OOOOHHH - shiny.

 

[Marcjsmith]

@ropetrick I’m not going to carpet the vertical surfaces. Its nice clean gelcoat now. So no reason to go back to carpet. IMO.

I think the sole does need something. I have some leftover dark blue/grey 2’ square commercial rubber backed carpet tiles leftover from another project. I made patterns so I’m going to at least cut the tiles and fit.

I also have enough of the grey “teak” I used in the cockpit, not sure it would look good though. Also toyed with getting some teak/holly veneer to match the existing cabin sole to stick down likely to be pricey though.

So for now it’s cut the carpet tiles, if I don’t like it, it’s easily reversible with added benefit of being no cost..

 

[Greever]

That gel coat looks so good, you don’t need carpet.

Great job on the refit. Thanks for sharing…

 

[ropetrick]

Carpet tiles should be just the ticket.

 

[Slick470]

Wax on wax off. Final few “on the hard” chores done splash set for March 15.

And Removed the old carpet from the aft cabin and cleaned up the glue to prep for new carpet
View attachment 578447

Looks great! Very shiny!

I need to do the old wax on, wax off here in a couple weeks and I'm going through my supplies to see what I need to restock and debating on what to change up. So, I'm sure this is a question with painfully subjective answers like anchors, boat shoes, or sunglasses, but what's your method and products for that shine? I've had pretty good results with the "MaineSail" method, but always looking for suggestions and improvements.

 

[SloopJonB]

You've got the gloss back - now 2 coats of carnauba soft paste and you're good to go.

 

[Marcjsmith]

@Slick470 not sure what the mainesail method is... but when I splashed two years ago I used meguiars m110 heavy cut first and then 210 to polish. followed by liquid carnuba.

it worked fine. this year i did the same process I had a few stubborn stains that i used the m110 in a few spots but it was mostly 210 then carnuba.

if you look at the pics on post 428 thats all pre wax and pre cleaning. nothing more than the pressure wash done by the guys in the yard when it came out of the water. the hull had weathered two seasons in the water with no extra waxing and just a regular soapy hull brushing with a some waterline rub downs with a 3m scrubby along the waterline

Chesapeake bay, along water line and around the bow usually gets a bit yellow from the nice clean water. I had none of that at the bow. a small amount on the port side due to the port list of the boat. So not sure if thats a result of the meguairs products or just dumb luck.

@SloopJonB never tried a tub of paste wax... I have some partall paste #2 sitting around collecting dust, wonder how it would do...

 

[Slick470]

@Marcjsmith Here is the "MaineSail Method" https://www.sailnet.com/threads/tips-for-compound-polish-wax.52772/

Our boat has been well loved, but lived too long in Florida and then the Gulf Coast before we bought it and moved it to the Chesapeake. So the gelcoat was pretty rough. Due to my own life stuff, I'm also likely to go a couple years between haulouts and re-waxing, so I'm always playing a bit of catchup when I get back to that part again.

Do you apply and remove by hand, or by machine? If by machine what pads do you use?

 

[Marcjsmith]

Using a cheap harbor freight 10 amp polisher. I was using a large wool pad to apply and remove. When the wool loaded up I used a cleaning tool https://cardealerdepot.com/buffing-...MI_IOv3PvK_QIVYMmUCR2R7QKyEAQYASABEgJZtfD_BwE
and a paint scraper to clean and knock off the built up wax...

Around the decals and waterline. I go easy and will do some hand work so I don’t mess up the decals or rub off the af paint

I might try a smaller pad on the cabin and cockpit flat surfaces. So I don’t have to rub it by hand this year.

The polisher does get heavy after a while. Toyed with some sort of bungee cord attached to the lifeline to take some of the weight, but figured it would not end well it it ever got tangled...

10 Amp 7 in. Variable Speed Polisher/Sander

Amazing deals on this 10Amp Variable Speed Polisher/Sander at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[SloopJonB]

I might try a smaller pad on the cabin and cockpit flat surfaces. So I don’t have to rub it by hand this year.

On that subject, does anyone know of a smaller - say 5" sander polisher? I can only find R/O machines in that size but would really like a small variable speed sander/polisher for doing cabins, cockpits etc. My 8" Snap On is just too clumsy for those jobs.