My notch differs to yours, it’s wider and flatter — multipurpose, which allows halyard tails to be led in. I’m not paying you squat, ZonkClose enough to a notch. You owe me royalties dude.
My notch differs to yours, it’s wider and flatter — multipurpose, which allows halyard tails to be led in. I’m not paying you squat, ZonkClose enough to a notch. You owe me royalties dude.
You know that you can patent an improvement on an existing patent, right?My notch differs to yours, it’s wider and flatter — multipurpose, which allows halyard tails to be led in. I’m not paying you squat, Zonk
Yes. But I would confirm that there is no continuity between the AC ground and the boat's DC ground, or more importantly any under water metals, which it seems you have done if I am reading your posts correctly. Did I also read that the boat lives on the hard in the winter? If so, then no worries at all.So, if using a drop cord, would you use the AC ground or not?
So, the ground prong on the 110VAC cord does not have any continuity to the negative battery terminal or the ground system on the boat.The manual says:
"e) A marine (boat) battery must be removed and charged
on shore. To charge it on board requires equipment
specially designed for marine use."
https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Manual-Blue-Smart-IP67-Charger-120V-EN-FR-ES.pdf
So, there's that.
Can you check for continuity between the earth pin and the battery negative?
Good. Your stray current problem is probably somewhere else.So, the ground prong on the 110VAC cord does not have any continuity to the negative battery terminal or the ground system on the boat.
On my charger, there is not continuity from the AC ground to the DC negative, BUT, there is a chassis ground that does have continuity to the AC ground. So, if I ground the chassis to the boat’s grounding system, then I’m effectively making a connection between the AC ground and the boat’s grounding system.Yes. But I would confirm that there is no continuity between the AC ground and the boat's DC ground, or more importantly any under water metals, which it seems you have done if I am reading your posts correctly. Did I also read that the boat lives on the hard in the winter? If so, then no worries at all.
Why do you want to connect the chassis ground (presumably the chassis of the charger) to the boat's DC ground? Does the manual for the charger suggest that? If not, I would leave it connected to the AC ground only. This will allow your DC system to float relative to the AC. I can't see any problem with that, but this is getting beyond my expertise in maritime electronics.On my charger, there is not continuity from the AC ground to the DC negative, BUT, there is a chassis ground that does have continuity to the AC ground. So, if I ground the chassis to the boat’s grounding system, then I’m effectively making a connection between the AC ground and the boat’s grounding system.
The boat is kept on a lift so it’s out of the water unless the tide is super high.
You drill a 3/8" diameter hole in the drop board very close to the top edge. Then saw down to the hole and remove the bit of wood or plastic...
This secret technique is what we in the industry call "a notch". I only offer this because I'm a nice guy. Don't spread this sort of secret around.
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Well looky here!
I devised a way to snake a 12ga cord around the drop board and still allow the hatch to fully close. I’m calling it the “No-Notch Shore Power Inlet” (Patent Pending)
View attachment 474588
@Zonker, your original description was of a method requiring the use of drills, saw & material removal, which you were altruistically offering because of a personality flaw called “being a nice guy.”Close enough to a notch. You owe me royalties dude.