Your lucky you ain't a girl. Its a whole nother level of paranoia!Paranoid dads have done a good job of keeping my generation from sharing their DOB and other information publicly...Seems the youth of today isn't in to over sharing on this internet thingy.....
Things like wetted surface area get weird when we get to smaller boats too.I think because you don't have material restrictions in the same way with a model boat the proprttions differ to take advantage of the fact you can go for deeper draft and larger sail area. This in turn requires a hull shape with different geometry to account for the higher amount of power (hence the hull runs at a higher speed to length ratio than a scaled down big boat with proportionally smaller rig and lower draft). Because of this, models will generally be narrower, more full ended and deeper than a real size vessel. Additionally, I believe form stability also does not scale in the same way as the rest of the boat necessitating more ballast on a deeper fin to allow the sail area to reach full hull speed.
Scaling down Bob's CF cutters would probably work better than most boats because those have an exceptional ballast ratio but I'm pretty sure it's still not 69%.
My original thoughts regarding the transom were to design something with the lowest possible drag so I put in a slight overhang. Looking at the boats now though, I think in anything but the lightest air the flatter buttock run aft with a slight immersion could potentially be faster if one was to max out the allowable sail area. I think I'd try it with the transom just touching the water with lots of flare aft to avoid a big corner of the transom dragging when the boat heels rather than the slight overhang I had on this boat. I think it could potentially allow for a slightly better max speed as long as it doesn't effect pointing too badly.great thread.
brilliant work, Will.
I'd be interested in hearing more on your thoughts as to the benefits of an immersed transom.
These boats are too heavy to plane but my bigger boat will in the right wind. The next design I hope to build someday is 125 cm so that should plane easily with a light displacement and large sail area.When fooling around with my RC's:
They sail upright only in very light airs. Double ended low prismatic would be a happy condition here?
Otherwise, over on their ear. Higher prismatic here? Immersed stern might start to pay off, but maybe a clean release is good too? Does your class plane? Forced mode?
While round bilges are nice for wetted surface (kind of), square (ish, even) is better for wave making. But as as they tip, wave resistance does goes go up. As much as rounder bilges or a round hull? As a chined hull tips over, it can get kind of like a v hull, so what kind of flare? (Did Pandora's box have chines? Or was it more round? )
Look at the last skinny low rider Moth designs. Pretty good in light air. I think that's why there are lower wind limitations for racing the foilers? You might check out International Canoe designs too. The Maas hulls kill in medium to heavy air. Not so much in the light. And of course, the open RC classes. Heck, any open class-
(What do you think?{ _} Or not....{ _} Check one please )
Just $.02 from an 'idiot with a computer' (tm!) who who has built some sailing canoes, a few RC's, and enough windsurfers to develop sensitivities to epoxy. :blink: You're on a neat adventure. Remember to check the safety sheets on all the chemicals you're using!
great thread.
brilliant work, Will.
I'd be interested in hearing more on your thoughts as to the benefits of an immersed transom.
Strikes me as a question of wind (boat) speed; your original design would be faster in lower winds, but once powered up the clean release of an immersed transom, even at sub-planing speeds, would be faster. I like your idea of the transom just touching the water; perhaps you could set the hull trim the transom higher for low winds, and lower for fully powered-up conditions?My original thoughts regarding the transom were to design something with the lowest possible drag so I put in a slight overhang. Looking at the boats now though, I think in anything but the lightest air the flatter buttock run aft with a slight immersion could potentially be faster if one was to max out the allowable sail area. I think I'd try it with the transom just touching the water with lots of flare aft to avoid a big corner of the transom dragging when the boat heels rather than the slight overhang I had on this boat. I think it could potentially allow for a slightly better max speed as long as it doesn't effect pointing too badly.
I think you already mentioned this before, but what about going as far as a scow bow, which seem to have proven fast on minis (and scows, obviously...)? Seems to be the logical (extreme) extension of an above-water line knuckle and fullness in the ends.I also think a little more bow knuckle would have been better on this design. She made a smaller bow wave trimming by the stern with the stem out of the water rather than in.
I'll bet it is...On the note of scaling, I read the owner of Mirabella V has three RC models of the yacht on board. Who wants to bet the keel is deeper proportionally than the real yacht?
Yes most certainly. 0.55 is a decent Cp for something like a TP52 which I don't think is as "fast" (Froude number wise) as a model yachtWhen you look at pictures of the boat you can see it is grossly disproportionate if scaled up. The same thing goes for my other model boat, 14" draft, 36" LOA.
My Cp was 0.55. I think I could have gone to 0.58 and been faster.