Steve and Dave Clarks Unidentified Foiling Object

Steve Clark

Super Anarchist
I will add a bit here.

The difficulty getting through a tack and out of irons is a consequence of the decision to put the main foil in front of the mast.  It requires some technique, but all the management benefits of the UFO depend on this feature.

Key  concept is to get the boat turned well beyond close hauled before trimming in the main, and to trim slowly. You have to get flow on the rudder as quickly as you can. Sitting too far aft, drags the sterns and slows your acceleration, so you want to try to land on the weather side further forward than where you were sitting when starting the tack. 

The deck sweeping foot of the mainsail kind of discourages you from doing this, but you can use it to your advantage. As you turn through the eye of the wind, reach around the more vertical part of the foot, aft of the foot seal, and sort of pull it past your shoulder, like you were shouldering your way past someone in a crowd. Don't start crossing the boat until the mainsail is behind you.  This forces the sail to help you turn, starts your motion across the boat, and assures that the main is well eased on the new tack. You want the clew to be outboard of the leeward quarter on the new tack. Keep the helm over throughout the tack you should think you are tacking to a reach rather than tacking to close hauled.

Try to land near the forward non skid patch, and swap your tiller hand before trimming the main and popping the battens. Do either too soon and the leech will load up and stall the rudder. Sheeting in. Is best bone with a short tug to tack the battens followed by a small ease to establish flow, once you are settled down, a smooth trim while turning up to close hauled.  This will provide the necessary speed build to get you back up on foils.

I hope this helps. This quirk is a function of all the good things about the UFO.  It takes a little getting used to, but with practice you will get it down.

SHC

 

Claire1000

Anarchist
641
20
Waco, TX
Awesome. Super helpful. Love the name Heisman tack  

Many insight on getting the forward main foil pin in? Trying hard not to get the drill out but can’t figure out how to get it in there. 

 

Merde2

Member
220
8
Awesome. Super helpful. Love the name Heisman tack  

Many insight on getting the forward main foil pin in? Trying hard not to get the drill out but can’t figure out how to get it in there. 
Lube, and just work the pin into the AOA holes without the foil in. It'll get easier.

 

Steve Clark

Super Anarchist
The assembler is supposed to use pins as an alignment guide when installing the two blocks so that the holes align, and chase them with a chucking ream after the glue cures and to make sure the pin goes through. If it doesn't get a small round file and open things up just a bit. As Merde says, it doesn't take much and a bit of lube may be all that is necessary. These parts will wear and loses a bit with use, so we try to ship with everything just about as tight as it can be and still go together.

it is possible that the hole in the foil is also slightly out of alignment even though there is a fixture that holds everything neat and square on the drill press. If the pin goes through the blocks and through the strut but not through all three you may need to waddle the hole with a small rat tail file to make it fit.  

Once again, sorry for the frustration, I will check with the guys on the floor to make sure procedures are being followed.

SHC

 

Claire1000

Anarchist
641
20
Waco, TX
We bought a Yakima outdoorsman to put the boat on top of my truck. We were worried about finding a wide enough rack and didn’t have the boat dimensions. We got the 78” crossbars and the “load stops” the black L shaped stops you see. 

Wanted to still be able to tow while moving the UFO. Also looked at making a trailer mount for on top of our RIB but that was pricy and just wanted to start here. Husband and I had no problem getting it up there.

We had to offset it because we didn’t want it resting on the upright bump. Not perfect but seems to work.

 
Last edited by a moderator:

Randy

New member
33
1
I will be hauling mine on a similar rack. How are you attaching it to the rack? Ratchet straps? And do you need a bridle to the front of your truck that someone else mentioned? Hoping that isn't necessary at it would seem distracting while you drive. 

 

Charlie P Mayer

Anarchist
598
70
UFO Dumbass Award number 3:

I wanted to lower the wand.

I knelt on the bow and pushed down on the carbon tube (crane?) to balance myself.

Don't do that.

I broke the glue seal on the extension off the crane and pulled the center out of the knurled nut.

Dave:  what kind of glue should I use to fix this?

Thank you,

Charlie

UFO damage small.jpg

 

Claire1000

Anarchist
641
20
Waco, TX
I pause to post this here, because I prefer when customers discuss issues with me privately first, but since this is not an unhappy issue and we will all be figuring out these boats a together, and Dave and Steve have been very awesome with public discussions...

The reason our front foil pin won't go in appears to be a manufacturing issue. The little black pieces with all the holes aren't square to each other. They are about 1/8" off. Assuming the large black insert for the entire thing is square with the boat, the pin is clearly at an angle which puts the strut at and angle. Even without the strut the pin won't go in the two multi holed blocks with McLube. You can also just visually tell.

I thought maybe it's not glued down, so went to undue the screws holding the black top parts with all of the holes in them down. On of the screws immediately broke off. I like to think I'm strong, but I'm a sorta little woman that was perched on a truck, so I didn't get much torque on it. Maybe has something to do with the angle and that led to the screw breaking? The other side's screws came right off, but the black part is glued down pretty tight.

Should we try to pop off the top part with all the holes? If so how? If we do, we can redrill it, but that's going to put the new hole too close to the old hole. We could use bolts instead of screws and washers and nuts? Any other ideas?

I will send Dave/Kirk an email also.

Claire and Theo and #20

 

Claire1000

Anarchist
641
20
Waco, TX
I will be hauling mine on a similar rack. How are you attaching it to the rack? Ratchet straps? And do you need a bridle to the front of your truck that someone else mentioned? Hoping that isn't necessary at it would seem distracting while you drive. 
Haven't quite figured that out. Because the boat's not super far forward, I don't think we are going to mess with a strap over the front. I am very cautious about this as I am in the car business and we have had a few customers rip their roof racks off with kayaks because they didn't use front/bow straps/bridles.

But...I think this is different because the boat isn't long and you don't have a large lifting force creating a long moment arm on the rack. The lifting force (where the main portion of the hull is) is directly over where the tie downs can attach to the truck. We will test and see, but that's our plan for now. Once we do something that works (we are driving to Dallas next weekend to hopefully race True North) will report. The little side stops seem like real good solutions for left right movement prevention.

Also, the rack is so high, we can put the foils on while it's on the truck. Which was helpful for figuring out our pin problem.

 

Claire1000

Anarchist
641
20
Waco, TX
UFO Dumbass Award number 3:

I wanted to lower the wand.

I knelt on the bow and pushed down on the carbon tube (crane?) to balance myself.

Don't do that.

I broke the glue seal on the extension off the crane and pulled the center out of the knurled nut.

Dave:  what kind of glue should I use to fix this?

Thank you,

Charlie

View attachment 246630
I started to do this yesterday. May need some giant sticker to remind myself to stay away. We did accidentally hit the wand with our chase boat and put a dimple in the foil...so we need to put that protector plate on there.

 

Merde2

Member
220
8
Don't know about the knurled nut issue but for the insert tab I just put that back together with gorilla glue and assemble the foil. (meaning you put the pin in to position it!)
Glue expands a bit and attaches everything while it doesn't stick to the aluminium strut. 

Concerning the roof racking, I've got the 78" round bars which I'm happy with. Have 2 straps, one goes through main block and the other through the hiking straps at the back, which is where the bars are positioned on the car.  I don't find the front bridal distracting, which I have going through the mast step with some clear PVC flexible pipe so as not to abraid the line I use. Padding the roundbars does provide more surface to transfer any strapping loads. 
Having a slight downwards angle makes for a smoother ride. Just have to take a look at the bug splatter to see where the air flow is hitting the boat.
20170529_200229.jpg

 

Randy

New member
33
1
I'm assuming that the crane he mentions is the part that sticks out of the front of the boat and holds the wand. Well extends from the front foil I should say. In all the videos is appears to be metal but I guess in the production boats it is now carbon fiber? 

And thanks for the answers about the bridle. Sounds like I might use a bridle and elevate the rear of the boat slightly. Padding is a good idea too. Was not even thinking about there being enough force on the boat to rip off the rack. Truck rack might be a different story though due to the way it is mounted. 

Certainly learning a lot on this forum. 

 

Charlie P Mayer

Anarchist
598
70
The video link posted above was recorded on Friday the 6th.  Very light wind - 5-7 mph max and very inconsistent.  I never got over 4 mph.  

The tacking hints by Dave and Steve are accurate.  No surprise there.  Thank you gentlemen!

Tacks were not quick in that wind - but a lot faster than back-tacking.

I never did have a problem with main foil pin insertion after I learned the "pin-in-the-hole-before-tightening" trick.

 

Charlie P Mayer

Anarchist
598
70
Best UFO day so far - cold front coming - nice wind.  Wand about 1 foot under water - low flight.

Upwind good, downwind different from other boats, need to switch gears mentally - didn't quite happen today  :mellow: .

No water in the boat - nothing broken - no blood - yea!

https://youtu.be/N1em8MY1T7Y

Charlie

 

Claire1000

Anarchist
641
20
Waco, TX
Had an awesome sail yesterday in Waco also. Winds right around 10kts. 

1. Definitely want to add a mark on the back of the wand so we can make sure it's twisted correctly.. Also want to add vertical marks. I suggest we maybe all try to come up with some standard so we can work together and figure out settings. Something like measure 18" up from bottom of wand, then marks every 3" or something. We use a small piece of electrical tape to keep from losing the wand and that's worked. Had back screw about 1/8" through the hole toward the front of the boat. Seemed about right for my 135lbs.

2. Upwind was awesome. I'm a fairly experienced pilot, and I found it to be very similar to steep turns in a wood spared plane, you can really feel the flex and how one adjustment affects all 3 axis. Don't let that make you think some pilot skills are needed at all. I wasn't working very hard. I was wanting to weigh more, and couldn't get the windward heel thing to happen, but didn't want to mess up my beautiful success so just focused on keeping her going. Not sure if when overpowered should head off or ease main, but played with both and had a blast. The boat "sings" to you which is really beautiful. I had the wand a little less than half way and hummed the hulls just at the top of the water for probably a good 3-4 minute reach. Quads were burning. Wish I had the wand higher, but it was an excellent designed training wheel mode and was probably right in hindsight. 

3. Downwind I have no idea what to do and she bucked me off 3 times. Quite fun, never scary or painful. Let go of the tiller! I couldn't right the boat alone (though I didn't try too hard as we wanted to sail before the wind left us). . A little righting line like Charlie shows worked great. 

I find it hilarious that we got home and talked about sharing some sort of marking system for the wand and a righting line, and the downwind stuff, and then boom- Charlie said ALL the same stuff. So that's good. 

Truck rack worked well. Went 50mph, no issues. Will take pictures of final straps. 

Took some good pictures, then jumped into lake with phone...so sorry. 

Can't wait to get back at it. Going to a regatta this weekend but doubt we will make it around the course, which is fine. The boat is not super fun in displacement mode so 10kts is where the fun begins.

Claire

ps- We are still sailing on a screwdriver, because our front multihole foil holder things are not aligned. This puts the front foil strut at an angle, not sure if that affects the sailing much. We did get the broken screw that holds those blocks down removed (after many hours with a drill press), and used a bolt to put it back on. Haven't heard back from Kirk (who I think is who we should contact), but I know they are at the boat show this week. 

 



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