Surf Anarchy

Alhadder

Super Anarchist
3,681
334
Left coast of Oz
On 12/19/2018 at 1:28 AM, Rasputin22 said:

I stumbled across this nicely done surf flick for the mainstream on NetFlix a couple of nights ago. Pretty good job of showing the surfer lifestyle and dedication without getting too cliche. I don't remember any surf chicks getting freaky with asphixiation though. 


Yep great film. Shot just down the road from me in and around Denmark on the South Coast of WA. Glad you enjoyed it and glad it's on Netflix in the US. Shame it isn't on the Aussie version yet :(

 

Pertinacious Tom

Importunate Member
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Punta Gorda FL
7 hours ago, blunderfull said:

Jacuzzi Surfer with big chops on his drone work @ BIG Nazarre.  


I want to see more of what came next after some of the aborts and falls. Some looked like they were in kinda bad places for a swim with a surfboard.

How did people do it before jet ski's?

 

Willin'

Super Anarchist
4,093
1,751
The Burg, Maine
Well, as a result of this thread I've gone ahead and ordered a new Fourth Gear Flyer surf mat. I'd been thinking of building a Grain Paipo for winter use when we go south but the mat just makes so much more sense from a transport perspective. 

Got a nice personal note from the owner letting me know he's building it now and will ship it this week. Nice business model, that.

lhttp://www.surfmats.com/vespa-roundtail.html

 

Pertinacious Tom

Importunate Member
61,566
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Punta Gorda FL
Surfmats? I called them rafts as a kid. I had one like the Classic at the link. I jumped on it enough times that all the seams gave up and it became nearly cylindrical. Balancing on top of it got very difficult.

 

aA

Super Anarchist
5,025
148
norcal™
this is the only surf mat i know of

418njM3vpgL._SX466_.jpg


 

Point Break

Super Anarchist
26,112
3,751
Long Beach, California
I want to see more of what came next after some of the aborts and falls. Some looked like they were in kinda bad places for a swim with a surfboard.

How did people do it before jet ski's?

This.

I can also tell you it’s REALLY tough to swim in that much white water. All that aerated foamy soup doesn’t give much “traction” in swim motions. 

 

Pertinacious Tom

Importunate Member
61,566
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Punta Gorda FL
I can also tell you it’s REALLY tough to swim in that much white water. All that aerated foamy soup doesn’t give much “traction” in swim motions. 
The closest I have come was one day as a boy in New Smyrna Beach when a tropical storm was passing by offshore. The adults reacted by mixing gin fizzes and the kids reacted by going bodysurfing. The waves were yuge by Florida standards. I remember trying to find and ride the smallest ones and swimming very hard to get out of a rip. If we were not all on swim teams we'd have probably died.

The captioning in the video is funny. It says the jet ski can't rescue him, then it does. OK, so it could. Still leaves me wondering how this was done before they were around.

 

Willin'

Super Anarchist
4,093
1,751
The Burg, Maine
Remember the term 'waterman'?  People like Jose Angel (RIP), Titus Kinimaka and of course Eddie were watermen. They dove deep, paddled and swam hard and went when most others wouldn't. They were essentially fearless due to a lifetime doing all kinds of water activities in all kinds of conditions without support.

Watch the guys out at Nazare' sometime. In addition to ski drivers for tow and catch, they have pfds and bailout bottles. Sure they have huevos  grande, but I think they'd mostly be dead or a lot more conservative without all the gadgetry.

I think, especially in light of the proliferation of wave pools, that we may be seeing the last generation of watermen aging out right now.

 

Point Break

Super Anarchist
26,112
3,751
Long Beach, California
I think, especially in light of the proliferation of wave pools, that we may be seeing the last generation of watermen aging out right now.
I understand that view but I attended a informal lifeguard reunion (mostly Class of 76) a few years ago and the current crop of "kids" are every bit as good watermen as any (of course we didn't tell them that :lol: )......in fact there are some legitimate bad asses - men and women - in that new group. New tools but no less tough and ocean savy. The tradition of good watermen is in safe hands.

 

longy

Overlord of Anarchy
6,512
1,006
San Diego
Remember the term 'waterman'?  People like Jose Angel (RIP), Titus Kinimaka and of course Eddie were watermen. They dove deep, paddled and swam hard and went when most others wouldn't. They were essentially fearless due to a lifetime doing all kinds of water activities in all kinds of conditions without support.

Watch the guys out at Nazare' sometime. In addition to ski drivers for tow and catch, they have pfds and bailout bottles. Sure they have huevos  grande, but I think they'd mostly be dead or a lot more conservative without all the gadgetry.

I think, especially in light of the proliferation of wave pools, that we may be seeing the last generation of watermen aging out right now.
Today people are surfing spots never even thought about back then. And don't forget how Angel died - complete dis regard for decompression tables, chasing black coral. Quite a few 'watermen'  died that way off Maui chasing coral.

 

Willin'

Super Anarchist
4,093
1,751
The Burg, Maine
Today people are surfing spots never even thought about back then. And don't forget how Angel died - complete dis regard for decompression tables, chasing black coral. Quite a few 'watermen'  died that way off Maui chasing coral.
My understanding was he was free diving, but he would tie a big rock to his chest to get down in a hurry. No decompression needed, however a fundamental knowledge of good knot tying is required.

 

longy

Overlord of Anarchy
6,512
1,006
San Diego
300' maybe deeper for his last dive, previously bent bad in '74, which pushed him more into diving as surfing was very difficult.  Supposedly you can't get bent free diving, not enuff time or gas in the lungs to fill the bloodstream.  All the record free dives I've seen (t-tube) are bounce dives. And below 120-150 ft even in the channels it's dark, & harvesting coral took lights, lift bags & hammer

 

Point Break

Super Anarchist
26,112
3,751
Long Beach, California
Its important to point out some of those really big spots were not surfable until the advent of PWC & tow in surfing. Cortes is a good example. Speaking of Cortes.......check out this Nat Geo about a very unique big wave. A couple of guys who qualify as watermen here...........BTW - one of the guys is one of our firefighters now.




 
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