Surf Anarchy

Snaggletooth

SA's Morrelle Compasse
33,888
5,498
Yes, sort of but not really. Not only that but time expands. It's hard to explain but those few seconds are burned in to your brain permanently and the memories are still as vivid today as they were 35 years ago.
I allwayes thick when you fulley intergratte, you our the wave, your the source of noise, mottion, and powere.  They our no longuere ouside stimullie.                    :)

 

surfsailor

Super Anarchist
1,887
156
Maui
There's nothing like a barrel when you finally line one up - the few seconds you are inside feel like eternity when it's happening. I got my first legit barrel in my 20s at Ma'alaea a year or so after I moved to Maui, but they have been few and far between. My son, OTOH, snagged his first barrel when he was 7, at Keiki bowls on the inside of Honolua Bay. By the time he was 9, he was a better surfer than I ever was - he surfed Teahupo'o for the first time when he was 12, you couldn't pay me to paddle out there.

These days he's all about the airs, but when it's on, he goes deep. Here he is a couple years ago, when he was 14:
 

https://player.vimeo.com/video/198806282?app_id=122963


 

Point Break

Super Anarchist
26,327
3,992
Long Beach, California
8 minutes ago, surfsailor said:

There's nothing like a barrel when you finally line one up - the few seconds you are inside feel like eternity when it's happening. I got my first legit barrel in my 20s at Ma'alaea a year or so after I moved to Maui, but they have been few and far between. My son, OTOH, snagged his first barrel when he was 7, at Keiki bowls on the inside of Honolua Bay. By the time he was 9, he was a better surfer than I ever was - he surfed Teahupo'o for the first time when he was 12, you couldn't pay me to paddle out there.

These days he's all about the airs, but when it's on, he goes deep. Here he is a couple years ago, when he was 14:
 

https://player.vimeo.com/video/198806282?app_id=122963
Nice...........very.

 

teddyrow

New member
Maybe one of you Surf Nazi's can answer a question I have long wondered about (I've never lived within 150 miles of surfing waves).

I was told once that when you are "in the tube" of a big wave that the world goes quite silent.

True?
Fact. Everytime you get barreled you'll hear Ted Nugent's stanglehold, and nothing else

 

Mrleft8

Super Anarchist
26,659
3,754
Suwanee River
12 hours ago, surfsailor said:

There's nothing like a barrel when you finally line one up - the few seconds you are inside feel like eternity when it's happening. I got my first legit barrel in my 20s at Ma'alaea a year or so after I moved to Maui, but they have been few and far between. My son, OTOH, snagged his first barrel when he was 7, at Keiki bowls on the inside of Honolua Bay. By the time he was 9, he was a better surfer than I ever was - he surfed Teahupo'o for the first time when he was 12, you couldn't pay me to paddle out there.

These days he's all about the airs, but when it's on, he goes deep. Here he is a couple years ago, when he was 14:
 

https://player.vimeo.com/video/198806282?app_id=122963
That kid has sticky feet! At my best I wasn't anywhere near that agile.

 

Point Break

Super Anarchist
26,327
3,992
Long Beach, California
Doesn't really look like fun - succeed or die.

How many people can actually do that? A dozen or so worldwide?
No....quite a few more. I'm just guessing but I'd think in the hundreds are surfing those, maybe more....including a fair number of women nowadays. Heck, Mavericks had 22 qualify for the contest last year with another 16 or so listed as alternates. 

 

bmiller

Super Anarchist
5,919
1,198
Buena Vista, Colorado
A few years back there was quite a discussion about the tribal attitude of so called locals who would drive visitors from "their" surf spot. Resorting to violence and vandalism. Has that gone away or does it still exist?

 

jhc

Super Anarchist
2,373
236
A few years back there was quite a discussion about the tribal attitude of so called locals who would drive visitors from "their" surf spot. Resorting to violence and vandalism. Has that gone away or does it still exist?
Was a trial in San Diego. Conclusion was, surfers are not gangs.

 

Point Break

Super Anarchist
26,327
3,992
Long Beach, California
A few years back there was quite a discussion about the tribal attitude of so called locals who would drive visitors from "their" surf spot. Resorting to violence and vandalism. Has that gone away or does it still exist?
Varies from spot to spot....but it’s the same except those places that got lots of news coverage. But that’s temporary, as soon as the attention dies down it’ll go back. I told a smart ass kid one day “I got more time on the shitter than you have at this break”. His buddies thought it was hilarious and we got along fine. GENERALLY, if you’re not an idiot or a Barney it’s not hard to get along.

 
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surfsailor

Super Anarchist
1,887
156
Maui
Nice...........very.


That kid has sticky feet! At my best I wasn't anywhere near that agile.
Thanks, guys. He's pretty amazing, I couldn't surf like that in my wildest dreams - he's a natural athlete like his mom. When that video was filmed, he was still recovering from a broken femur and multiple related operations, it's been fun and inspirational watching his progress since then. The ocean is truly his home - he was 2 time jr sailor of the year at LYC when he was a little kid, but he's been 100% surfing focused for the last 5 years. Hoping to get him back into sailing at some point.

 

bmiller

Super Anarchist
5,919
1,198
Buena Vista, Colorado
Not much a fan of SUPers poaching waves, 
Explain that to me. What difference does it make if the next guy to catch the wave has a stick in his hand or not? How is that poaching? 

That's like me saying those damn snowboarders poached my line. Does it really matter the tool one uses to ride a wave or carve a turn?

 
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Point Break

Super Anarchist
26,327
3,992
Long Beach, California
Explain that to me. What difference does it make if the next guy to catch the wave has a stick in his hand or not? How is that poaching? 

That's like me saying those damn snowboarders poached my line. Does it really matter the tool one uses to ride a wave or carve a turn?
Short board v long board sniveling. The short version is a longer board (think waterline length) can get into a wave further out in the lineup. Short boards need to wait till the wave is nearly breaking to catch it because less waterline means less paddling glide. So an SUP or a long board can sit further out and already be in the wave surfing before the short board is even trying to paddle into the wave. It pisses them off and they call it poaching. This is especially a conflict if the long board/SUP takes every single wave that comes along. Hogging all the waves because of a paddling advantage can really piss the short boarders off. Frankly, I see their point. When I’m in the lineup with short boards inside I’m attentive to not being a wave hog. Skipping a set isn’t a big deal to me.....in my mind it’s about sharing this wonderful experience we call surfing. There are always enough waves to share unless you’re an asshole. Also.....at my age....I need to take a break once in a while.  :lol:

 

Point Break

Super Anarchist
26,327
3,992
Long Beach, California
Not much a fan of SUPers poaching waves, but I'm loving how women seem to be rediscovering cross step walking and nose riding...
Funny, when started surfing a short board was around 8 feet......and tri-fin? No such thing. Then when short boards started to be popular I went to my shortest board ever......a 7’6” Gordon & Smith pintail trifin. I gave it away a year later. But one of the things I love about surfing is the many ways short and long that you can express yourself. I’m amazed at the athleticism of some of the short boards. They pull off high energy unbelievable moves. But I’ve never lost my love of the classic long board style cross walk, nose ride, arched back, drop knee cut backs.........love it. I hope when I heal up I can bring that experience to SUP riding as well. We’ll see. 

 




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