Surf Anarchy

Point Break

Super Anarchist
26,654
4,466
Long Beach, California
Mismoyled Jiblet. said:


which is often what they do. usually some kooky inlander hogging waves thinking they rule.
If you notice those idiots are usually hogging, dropping on and cutting off other long boarders as well. Nobody appreciates those idiots.

 

bmiller

Super Anarchist
6,045
1,332
Buena Vista, Colorado
Mismoyled Jiblet. said:
It's a powerboat sitting on the shoulder constantly stealing shit. It's a shitbag move to do. Clearly you don't surf, what the fuck does it matter to you? 

people are shitty tribal creatures at surf breaks because surf breaks can't support lots of people. it's not fucking skiing. it's not colorado. one good wave, one person.
Dood, relax. It was a sincere question. I don't understand the surf culture and was just asking. I thought about taking it up after retiring but if it means dealing assholes every time out I'll pass.

On the other hand, I've spent a few days in the backcountry and countless days lift served skiing. I can honestly say the vast majority of the people I run into in the bc are pretty cool. Always willing to discuss a line, share a snack or the merits of the local IPA. And most importantly discuss the state of the snowpack and avy safety. You never know, that stranger may help save your ass. And vice versa.

 

Point Break

Super Anarchist
26,654
4,466
Long Beach, California
Mismoyled Jiblet. said:
anyways, surfing is perfection with a few other people out. with more than that it's hell.
Well.....those days are over......or at least pretty rare anymore. My view is we can figure it out. It’s different when it’s crowded but I still manage to enjoy it. I try to avoid crowds but sometimes that’s what is. I gotta say, I always got up REAL early and was paddling out at sunrise. Unless there is a monster swell it’s rarely crowded then. So when it crowds up around 9-10, I’m usually done. There are too many hassles in life to bring hassles to the lineup. 

 

Mrleft8

Super Anarchist
27,459
4,070
Suwanee River
You can still find places where not many people have found the waves..... But they are far away, and few.

 Bacolette Beach on Tobago was one place, but then some asshole built a resort on the bluff above it, and now it's over run with fat elderly Germans.... Surf? not there anymore.

 That's the place I saw the hammerhead shark silhouetted in the curl just after my last ride of the day..... It wasn't going to be my last ride until I saw that....

 It was fun to run in from the foam shouting "Hi! Hi! Hi!" to the people on the beach though..... In German "Hi!" is "Shark!"

 

Point Break

Super Anarchist
26,654
4,466
Long Beach, California
Dood, relax. It was a sincere question. I don't understand the surf culture and was just asking. I thought about taking it up after retiring but if it means dealing assholes every time out I'll pass.
Other than a few spots the legendary animosity of locals is overstated. After 50 years of surfing most of the California Coast I’ve rarely had a problem and even then it’s just some puffy jaw jacking.....whatever. I’ve never been vandalized or physically assaulted. The secret is at a break you don’t know, don’t paddle out into the middle, spin around and take off. If I don’t know the break, I paddle out on the edge and watch for a little. Maybe sit outside and strike up a conversation or two. Take a wave - not the best of the set - a few times. Don’t crowd anybody right away, and in a while they figure out you’re not an idiot, not a hog, not an asshole, you play by the rules of the road and eventually you can surf pretty much unmolested. 

When learning stay out of the lineup and work on the edges or down from the peak. Nobody wants somebody who is working on paddling, standing and taking off sitting in the middle of the break spraying the board all over when they fall. That jacks up everybody’s day. Eventually when you master the basics you can begin to move toward the actual break. 

My experiance has been people are generally pretty nice out there. 

 

Point Break

Super Anarchist
26,654
4,466
Long Beach, California
BTW, the worst locals I’ve ever encountered was surfing in Hawaii. They’re pretty touchy there......at least that’s been my experiance. Maybe they have to put up with more Barney’s.

 
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Point Break

Super Anarchist
26,654
4,466
Long Beach, California
Interesting. Tom Wolfe wrote about them being tribal assholes 50 years ago.

I guess it's become a family tradition.
Well....I guarded there in 1976 after I got out of the military......so that was 42 years ago....

The problem places that really everyone knew about back then were Wind n Sea, Huntington south side of the pier, PV Lunada Bay, some spots in the South Bay, Ventura County Line, Rincon, and Santa Cruz Steamer Lane.....and really only Wind n Sea, Rincon, and Lunada were REALLY bad. On a whole coast that’s not so bad.

 

LB 15

Cunt
Well.....those days are over......or at least pretty rare anymore. My view is we can figure it out. It’s different when it’s crowded but I still manage to enjoy it. I try to avoid crowds but sometimes that’s what is. I gotta say, I always got up REAL early and was paddling out at sunrise. Unless there is a monster swell it’s rarely crowded then. So when it crowds up around 9-10, I’m usually done. There are too many hassles in life to bring hassles to the lineup. 
Took an early mark yesterday when my son rang me to tell me the entire Gold Coast was 2-3 and a complete glass out. Checked out the points - they were nuts then found a little peak all to my self on a beach break. Spent 2 hours getting barrel after barrel with only a few dolfins for company, then went and watched the pros ripping perfect Dbar. An afternoon like that makes life worth living despite the horror show 2 hour drive home.

 

LB 15

Cunt
You might find this interesting. My brother had this 9'1" Meyerhoffer made about 20 years ago and he gave it to my oldest lad for his 21st birthday today. It is weird but I can not wait to try it! My sons Quiver is now over 20 boards. We are going to need a bigger house.

IMG_6788.JPG

 

Rasputin22

Rasputin22
14,124
3,668
You might find this interesting. My brother had this 9'1" Meyerhoffer made about 20 years ago and he gave it to my oldest lad for his 21st birthday today. It is weird but I can not wait to try it! My sons Quiver is now over 20 boards. We are going to need a bigger house.
Looks like Mr Peanuts surfboard!

1372784891000-peanut-1307021310_16_9.jpg


longboards.jpg


    Goes to show you that any dude with a nice surfboard can get a hot chick. Look at Mr Peanuts GF!

iGxPfFRFkZsl.jpg


    Is that Melania?

     I guess that is OK since Trump has just appointed Donald to the post of Secretary of Agriculture!

trumpplanters-293x170.jpg


 

Rasputin22

Rasputin22
14,124
3,668
Well....I guarded there in 1976 after I got out of the military......so that was 42 years ago....

The problem places that really everyone knew about back then were Wind n Sea, Huntington south side of the pier, PV Lunada Bay, some spots in the South Bay, Ventura County Line, Rincon, and Santa Cruz Steamer Lane.....and really only Wind n Sea, Rincon, and Lunada were REALLY bad. On a whole coast that’s not so bad.
I used to get a bit nervous when I first started surfing WInd'an'Sea in 1970 but the rock ledge at Big Rock scared me more than the goons that claimed it as there own. You didn't even dare point a camera out at the break there! My surfing buddy rode kneeboards and he got bold enough to paddle out at Big Rock and he was surprised that a couple of guys greeted him when he got to the line up. Strictly kneeboards there at that time and one guy started chatting him up in a congenial way. The other guy smiled and nodded and paddled around behind him and my buddy didn't pay much attention to what that guy was up too. He kept talking with the friendly one who saw a set coming and told him to follow him south to catch the peak or they wouldn't catch a wave at all. He couldn't believe that he was getting such help as a beginner in such a notorious spot and followed as told. The guy kept saying that the wave would double on the other side of the shallow ledge and the paddle in would be easy and early. The swell comes out of a deep canyon and when it pushed skyward the whole crew started yelling at the new guy 'Go for it man, you in just the right spot!'

    He thought is was  a suicidal takeoff but couldn't turn it down with the whole crew cheering him on so he did a late drop and just kept going straight down at the bottom of the square wave and hit the nose of his board on the rocky reef and got pretty well worked over himself. When he popped to the surface he reached for his 'kook cord' to snag his board which was right in front of the exposed 'rock' that gave the break its name. No drag on the cord and he wound that it had been cleanly slashed. His board got caught up under the overhanging ledge and eventually washed up on top of the rock. He had no choice but to swim back to the channel and on the way passed the two guys who had 'greeted' him who were snickering and the dude who he hadn't paid attention to was holding up a little dive knife and had apparently kicked off his board and swam underwater to cut the newbies leash. They said 'Welcome to Big Rock' as he swam past...

     After recovering his board he went to his car and found his tires slashed too!

    Not long after that some East Coast Florida youngster paddles out at Big Rock on a stand up board which was unheard of and paddled in and got tube after tube much to the amazement of the Big Rock Posse and survived the wave and the crowd. We watched this audacious performance from W&S and figured that the guy would bet mobbed when he got back to his car, but his ballsy surfing impressed Da Boyz that they adopted him instantly. I think it was the fact that he was a Florida surfer and his respect he gave to the locals was what saved his ass that day.  Jeff Crawford was just stopping in San Diego on his way to Hawaii where he wowed the competitive circuit there. 

In the summer of 1973, Jeff (Crawford) continued his streak and became the first East Coaster to grace the cover of a major surf publication-an amazing Warren Bolster tube shot taken at Big Rock in La Jolla, California. (Five years later, Jeff scored the cover again, this time at Pipeline. The shot was noted as one of the most tech surf images of its time.) People were starting to take notice of this relatively unknown badass from back East.

Image-9-5-14-at-11.06-AM.jpg


 


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