Surf Anarchy

Point Break

Super Anarchist
26,327
3,992
Long Beach, California
Not long after that some East Coast Florida youngster paddles out at Big Rock on a stand up board which was unheard of and paddled in and got tube after tube much to the amazement of the Big Rock Posse and survived the wave and the crowd.
SUP at Big Rock!!!??  :blink:  Holy cow!! That is such a steep fast barrel I can't imagine it with a long board much less an SUP! How the hell did he ever make the bottom turn?? I'd have stopped and watched as well. 

 

Point Break

Super Anarchist
26,327
3,992
Long Beach, California
SailBlueH2O said:
Never had much opportunity with a board..Miami and all....but did spend the summer 1969 chasing a dream living on the water side of Mission Blvd in Pacific Beach...between odd jobs was in the water any time there were waves body surfing...never had  any trouble mixing in with the boards...then standing in line @ Maynard's for 50 cent paper plate spaghetti dinners ....it was wonderful !
I guarded two seasons (well, 1.5 seasons) as a SD City seasonal before I got picked up at the FD. The advantage of being one of the lowest seniority seasonals was I was extra and not assigned to any specific beach.That meant I got used to fill in for sick and vacation staffing anywhere. Some guys hated that because you didn't have a home, you didn't have regular start and stop hours, if a beach wasn't busy you were the first to get sent home, and once in a while you'd get sent down to the bay to guard something like Crown Point or Bonita etc (yuck!!). What I liked was I probably worked almost every beach we had at one point or another, and often got to ride the wet seat in the jeep with the Sgt or Lt. Jeep days were fun because you backed up pretty much every significant rescue which meant I went into the water a lot on those days. So, I remember PB & MB really well. I liked it there because the boardwalk in MB was always entertaining and the rescues were pretty easy. On the weekend, all it took was a short walk down from the tower and someone was certain to feed you great BBQ. "Hey lifeguard, want some food?" Uh.......yes.....

 

bmiller

Super Anarchist
5,919
1,198
Buena Vista, Colorado
I have another sincere question.

In the lexicon of mountain living the term "dirtbag" is a badge of honor. It's generally used by climbers, skiers and recently mountain bikers. A dirtbag is someone who gives up everything, including employment, in the pursuit of their chosen sport. Dirtbags eat ramen noodles and wash it down with PBRs. They crash on anybodies couch or for the truly fortunate in their van. Their wardrobe is goodwill but their equipment is usually top notch, never new. In general they eschew social norms.

Is there a similar term for surfer dudes? If so I have a theory.

 

Point Break

Super Anarchist
26,327
3,992
Long Beach, California
I have another sincere question.

In the lexicon of mountain living the term "dirtbag" is a badge of honor. It's generally used by climbers, skiers and recently mountain bikers. A dirtbag is someone who gives up everything, including employment, in the pursuit of their chosen sport. Dirtbags eat ramen noodles and wash it down with PBRs. They crash on anybodies couch or for the truly fortunate in their van. Their wardrobe is goodwill but their equipment is usually top notch, never new. In general they eschew social norms.

Is there a similar term for surfer dudes? If so I have a theory.
http://blog.panamajack.com/the-surf-bum-rv-lifestyle/

 

Rasputin22

Rasputin22
13,916
3,470
SUP at Big Rock!!!??  :blink:  Holy cow!! That is such a steep fast barrel I can't imagine it with a long board much less an SUP! How the hell did he ever make the bottom turn?? I'd have stopped and watched as well. 
I didn't phrase that well. It was long before SUP. I guess it was maybe a 6'6" standard shortboard for that era. No bottom turn at Big Rock for sure. From some of the reading I just did about Crawford was that he was pretty well known as a Surf Nazi back at his home break at Sebastians Inlet.  I think the his stop in San Diego was that he was trying to get his hands on the local homegrown Fish Twin fins that Steve Lis was shaping for the kneeboarders starting about 1970. Big Rock was pretty much the breeding grounds for the Fish. 

    When the '72 Worlds was held a couple years later, David Nuuiwha had shown up with a whole quiver of fish boards and was acting like he had invented the design. The San Diego bad boys pulled a little stunt to set the record straight.

image.png

https://player.vimeo.com/video/140441760?app_id=122963


 

Rasputin22

Rasputin22
13,916
3,470
Here is the real deal about China Beach. An filmaker friend of mine over in Pensacola met a vet who said he surfed in Viet Nam and was actually the president of the China Beach Surf Club. They started digging up old film footage that he had archived and ended up putting together a documentary about the experience. They put a Surf Flick Festival of sorts about this time last year at the Flora-Bama and released this preview. I'll have to make a call and see if the whole film is finished yet. I think that they flew back to China Beach and were surprised to see how popular the sport is with the locals. The club had left all the surfboards when the military left and the guy actually found some local kids that were still surfing on his old board! 

http://www.pnj.com/videos/news/2017/06/09/documentary-explores-vietnam-surf-scene/102675042/

More old stock military footage




 

Rasputin22

Rasputin22
13,916
3,470
Nice little history of Black's Beach, where I usually surfed since I lived just over the hill in Universal City and could ride my Honda 50 Trail through the railroad right of ways and stay off of public roads for the most part.





Or wait until Sunday and borrow my Dad's Mustang!

 

Willin'

Super Anarchist
4,161
1,819
The Burg, Maine
Well, I'd reply to BMiller's question about my dislike of SUPers poaching in the lineup, but it's been about thrashed to death  by others. As much as I'd like to comment about my one time, in the water, near punch out at Big Rock by locals, that's been sufficiently covered by others as well. If living in your van for years at a time to follow your surf jones makes you a dirtbag, somebody hand me a bar of soap.

I see someone mentioned Blacks, where I've never quite actually surfed, but I have paddled out at Scripps Pier and LJ Shores and Cove. Reminds me of the good ol' days surfing nekkid at a break just west of Isla Vita called Sands. There's a natural seafloor crude oil seep not far offshore there and surfing nude pretty much guaranteed going home with a messy board to clean up and even messier belly and arms that needed serious Wesson Oil treatment... good news if your GF surfed with you. I always dreamt of surfing naked in the tropics somewhere clean, but sadly, that never happened for me

Not much nude surfing in Maine nowadays.

 

Point Break

Super Anarchist
26,327
3,992
Long Beach, California
Well, I'd reply to BMiller's question about my dislike of SUPers poaching in the lineup, but it's been about thrashed to death  by others. As much as I'd like to comment about my one time, in the water, near punch out at Big Rock by locals, that's been sufficiently covered by others as well. If living in your van for years at a time to follow your surf jones makes you a dirtbag, somebody hand me a bar of soap.

I see someone mentioned Blacks, where I've never quite actually surfed, but I have paddled out at Scripps Pier and LJ Shores and Cove. Reminds me of the good ol' days surfing nekkid at a break just west of Isla Vita called Sands. There's a natural seafloor crude oil seep not far offshore there and surfing nude pretty much guaranteed going home with a messy board to clean up and even messier belly and arms that needed serious Wesson Oil treatment... good news if your GF surfed with you. I always dreamt of surfing naked in the tropics somewhere clean, but sadly, that never happened for me

Not much nude surfing in Maine nowadays.
Maine is pretty though. I could never leave the beach but if I did Maine would be pretty high on my list..........seasonally of course!!  :lol:

I guarded Blacks for about two weeks.........different. Worst was at high tide you were not getting any backup from the south on rescues. So 3 guards, 2 at opening and 1 late in the day toward evening. The bottom there was pretty shifting. Get a flash or traveling rip that sweeps a dozen tourists out and you are on your own......the state guards next beach up north never came down to help. 

I worked with a couple guards back then who were "permanent seasonals". They guarded for City in the summer and worked ski patrol in the winter. The gap in the seasons was world travel time. Those boys had it figured out................. 

 

LB 15

Cunt
I have another sincere question.

In the lexicon of mountain living the term "dirtbag" is a badge of honor. It's generally used by climbers, skiers and recently mountain bikers. A dirtbag is someone who gives up everything, including employment, in the pursuit of their chosen sport. Dirtbags eat ramen noodles and wash it down with PBRs. They crash on anybodies couch or for the truly fortunate in their van. Their wardrobe is goodwill but their equipment is usually top notch, never new. In general they eschew social norms.

Is there a similar term for surfer dudes? If so I have a theory.
Unemploymend Douchebag?

 

Point Break

Super Anarchist
26,327
3,992
Long Beach, California
Wonder how they're doing now? ;)
The only one I kept in touch with is dead....................skin cancer. They were almost all pretty hearty partiers.......I reckon unless one of them stumbled into some rich lady or invented something or other that none of them are comfortable.....at least thats what I keep telling myself. Although I took a pretty darn good road and loved every minute so I have no complaints.

 

Ed Lada

Super Anarchist
19,351
4,918
Poland
I allwayes thick when you fulley intergratte, you our the wave, your the source of noise, mottion, and powere.  They our no longuere ouside stimullie.                    :)
I always thought that it was because if you are in a wave that big, your butt is clenched so tight, that all of your openings close up!

 

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