I watched a couple of those Maui vids. Nuts. That Kai is another level
Day two. I keep staring at the speed of those Maui freight trains & Kai & friends just killing it. Wow.
It’s picking up at Bolsa, which means a Big south. Bolsa, facing north, rarely pulls in the south swells. My wrist is wrecked, arthritis is kicking my butt. Can’t always depend on having full strength when I need it. Took a look today @ noon and it was good (6-8’ on the occasional big set). Passed. Sheit. Need to pick my days and be safe. No drama. Old age sucks but just paddling out is life affirming. Ocean is life. Good for the soul.
Laird is wise. I get down and then this conversation pops up. He’s pushing sixty. Still on it. Thank you Jamie & Surfer’s Journal. Watermen for life.