sledracr
Super Anarchist
ho lee shittttttt
Surf Anarchy
- Thread starter Rasputin22
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Rasputin22
Rasputin22
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Just got home from a week in LA and a couple of days in San Diego. I think we saw the sun for a total of maybe 6 hours the whole time but the surf was booming. Last couple of nights were spent maybe 2 blocks up the hill from Wind and Sea and Big Rock but it was pretty blown out.
Rasputin22
Rasputin22
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This was the next day in SD as I was driving to LAX to fly home! I should have stayed an extra couple of days at Windansea...
Rasputin22
Rasputin22
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This was a couple days earlier when we were staying in Santa Monica!
Rasputin22
Rasputin22
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This is what was going on when we stopped at Ocean Beach Pier.
veni vidi vici
Omne quod audimus est opinio, non res. Omnia videm
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La Jolla cove on Saturday. Photo credit: Greg Steele
veni vidi vici
Omne quod audimus est opinio, non res. Omnia videm
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Coming on Sunday
Rasputin22
Rasputin22
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The EDDIE got canceled.
Rasputin22
Rasputin22
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Not exactly wiped out nor a marina but this was well up inside the inner harbor in Ventura, Ventura Keys residences. Long way for this to push up that far. Much like a tidal bore.
It says post was removed but click on the text above that.
Son of a Sailor
Super Anarchist
Website says on for tomorrow
00seven
James "Grumpy" Bond
That's kinda wrong in itself....Eddie would go.
Rasputin22
Rasputin22
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Dear Mr. Oldsurfer, get in touch with the new reality, man! Kai Lenny is possibly the best all around water man ever. Kelly Slater was certainly the best contest surfer ever and in spite of the revulsion I feel for "surf contests" I have to respect his incredible ability but you must be hiding under a very old, crusty rock not to have seen Kai Lenny's multifaceted shredding.
Liquid
NFLTG
Let's not forget that Kai is taking the king waterman reigns from Laird Hamilton.
oldsurfer
Member
Yes I'm old and I have seen the Kai vids. Absolutely incredible what that kid can do and the sport overall has progressed light years from my "way back then stories". For christsake Slater has his own wave machine surf ranch in Central Calif now.
My respect and admiration for Eddie comes from a time when fear played a big part of surfing. I mean how long was it before anybody actually paddled out at huge Wiamea. Eddie was the first lifeguard at Wiamea and years later he died trying to save lives from a failed traditional sailing vessel attempt.
I don't mean to take anything away from Kai, but it's kinda a bigger picture thing for me, I'm from the Billy/Laird rescue time warp.
veni vidi vici
Omne quod audimus est opinio, non res. Omnia videm
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My position on the “greatest “ in sports is
Whomever was the or among the greatest of his generation. So much changes over time in training techniques, equipment, etc that it is not realistic to compare.
Whomever was the or among the greatest of his generation. So much changes over time in training techniques, equipment, etc that it is not realistic to compare.
Willin'
Super Anarchist
Pretty sure he's holding a Fourth Gear Flyer, a surf mat designed to be underinflated so you can squeeze the air to different tubes during a ride to vary the performance to where you are on the wave.
I bought one for a trip to Puerto Rico a few years back. It definitely has a hard learning curve. Unfortunately I got Maytagged and lost a fin on my first day there, before I could buy a replacement the island went on Covid lockdown and I haven't used it since.
mikewof
mikewof
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Pretty sure he's holding a Fourth Gear Flyer, a surf mat designed to be underinflated so you can squeeze the air to different tubes during a ride to vary the performance to where you are on the wave.
I bought one for a trip to Puerto Rico a few years back. It definitely has a hard learning curve. Unfortunately I got Maytagged and lost a fin on my first day there, before I could buy a replacement the island went on Covid lockdown and I haven't used it since.
Thanks, I had a look at the site ... the fins kinda pop in and out? Is that to ride them when the black ball is out?
Doesn't seem easy to pressurize the mat on the wave, I try to find some videos of how it's done.
Mats have fins? I looked at the site (who knew?) and couldn't tell from the photo. I think 60 years after the last time I rode a mat, my nipples are finally healed. My hip is not cooperating with "pop ups" anymore and I can't seem to get the hang of SUP surfing but need to try some more...maybe a mat or boogie board is the future for old people?Pretty sure he's holding a Fourth Gear Flyer, a surf mat designed to be underinflated so you can squeeze the air to different tubes during a ride to vary the performance to where you are on the wave.
I bought one for a trip to Puerto Rico a few years back. It definitely has a hard learning curve. Unfortunately I got Maytagged and lost a fin on my first day there, before I could buy a replacement the island went on Covid lockdown and I haven't used it since.
Willin'
Super Anarchist
No, mat surfers have fins!
BTW, after my first day out on my mat I went immediately out and bought a couple of rashers. It'd been a long time since I'd had bleeding nipples.
You're thinking along the same limes I did when I bought mine, but outside of Hawaii couldn't find any XXL sized boogies to accommodate my old age onset girthyness. The mat was the next logical choice.
