Surf Anarchy

[veni vidi vici]

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[Code 2]

This one is really special - for those of you outside of SoCal - we regularly race around these oil islands. I watched HB Cliffs this day with amazement - young guys trying to paddle out getting annihilated. I bought a new paddleboard so off to San O I go..

 

[veni vidi vici]

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[Son of a Sailor]

It's on!

The 2022 - 2023 Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational | Waimea Bay

The biggest surfing event in the world returns this year. Our last event saw over 1.2 million views of the live stream from fans from more than 200 countries around the world.

www.theeddieaikau.com

 

[veni vidi vici]

Hawaii’s last day of prep: ‘We’re ready to Eddie!’

There are some parking considerations; No cars will be allowed along Kamehameha Highway and Waimea Bay Beach Park starting Saturday night.

www.khon2.com

 

[oldsurfer]

White kids (hoale) were hated and hunted
Hanalei Bay with Caves, Tunnels, Pine Trees, Waikokos and the Point
Got shoulder hopped every wave for weeks
Ready to give up and go back to mainland
Surf is flat and walked by a Moke only pick up basketball game
They were playing barefoot on an asphalt court
I'm 6'4" and they call out "Hey Brudda"
Told myself never shoot the ball and become Mr Assist
We owned the court all day
The next time I paddled out into the line up and started getting vibed
One of the guys I had played ball with paddled over to the haters
I never had a problem getting all the waves I wanted after that
I also got to eat the best tasting pig roasted in leaves in a pit
But the thing I will take to my grave
The first time droppin into a 20+
So huge, fast and silent until that lip crashes onto the reef like thunder

 

[sledracr]

Livestream up at surfline:

https://www.surfline.com/surf-news/swell-alert/tracking-the-eddie-engine/170443#170548

Supposed to start booming around 11am (2pm Pacific)

 

[Rasputin22]

Room at the mark!

 

[sledracr]

Looks sloppy. Watched one guy get lined up for his drop-in and get bumped off his path in the wrong direction. Ugh.

 

[veni vidi vici]

 

[oldsurfer]

Loved it!
That's one way to cull the herd, I guess.
The vid reminded me of how scared I was of the boils
Thanks

 

[veni vidi vici]

Loved it!
That's one way to cull the herd, I guess.
The vid reminded me of how scared I was of the boils
Thanks

They all slept well that night, between the adrenaline and physical exertion .
I just stumbled across this channel , very well put together

 

[Rasputin22]

For you slo mo freaks!

 

[Willin']

RIP Pat Curren, a true original...

Quirky, mystique-laden, the coolest of the cool – Pat Curren gone at 90

A pioneering shaper and thinker and a fine craftsman, Pat Curren was regarded as the best big wave surfer of ...

www.pacificlongboarder.com

 

[guerdon]

Pat Curren was my friend, a gentle but firm man who did things his way. He and Rennie have given me much to think about over the years..

 

[Willin']

Pat Curren was my friend, a gentle but firm man who did things his way. He and Rennie have given me much to think about over the years..

Yeah, I was just pondering how similar their later years were. Santa Barbara surf aristocracy there.

It would have been so much more satisfying if guys like that wound up surfing their golden years away at the Ranch or owning one of the houses at Rincon.

 

[veni vidi vici]

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[veni vidi vici]

Is that Cojo's or Gov Pt? I can't believe the crowds!
Interested in how you have this pic.....

Plucked it in my www travels

 

[guerdon]

i used to surf with Pat, and later Tom, at Hammonds, sometimes Rennie would show up. Pat, would always sit way out side and get the set of the day. I have never been dropped in by any of them. They all get it. Rennie helped me join the SBCSC [ I was so young, they figured that I would never get up there since I couldn't drive and the bylaws forbade bringing surfing friends. There was a clause that said my girlfriend could be my guest.]. I love women, and put the word out. Soon I was up there all the time. None of the other members complained because of all the beauty they brought. My mom gave me a great talk about not sleeping with any one who I wouldn't be willing to spend the rest of my life with. It was wonderful to see Rennie, at Government point. Trimming is a skill that he and Pat, were so good at. I think they both would have been great sailors but it was too slow for them. You know all these people around us are so gifted and when they use their skills it it inspires us to find our own and share the love. Aloha, Guerdon.

 

[veni vidi vici]

1890 the first known photo of a Hawaiian surfer