Surf Anarchy

veni vidi vici

Omne quod audimus est opinio, non res. Omnia videm

White kids (hoale) were hated and hunted
Hanalei Bay with Caves, Tunnels, Pine Trees, Waikokos and the Point
Got shoulder hopped every wave for weeks
Ready to give up and go back to mainland
Surf is flat and walked by a Moke only pick up basketball game
They were playing barefoot on an asphalt court
I'm 6'4" and they call out "Hey Brudda"
Told myself never shoot the ball and become Mr Assist
We owned the court all day
The next time I paddled out into the line up and started getting vibed
One of the guys I had played ball with paddled over to the haters
I never had a problem getting all the waves I wanted after that
I also got to eat the best tasting pig roasted in leaves in a pit
But the thing I will take to my grave
The first time droppin into a 20+
So huge, fast and silent until that lip crashes onto the reef like thunder

veni vidi vici

Omne quod audimus est opinio, non res. Omnia videm
Loved it!
That's one way to cull the herd, I guess.
The vid reminded me of how scared I was of the boils
They all slept well that night, between the adrenaline and physical exertion .
I just stumbled across this channel , very well put together


Super Anarchist
The Burg, Maine
Pat Curren was my friend, a gentle but firm man who did things his way. He and Rennie have given me much to think about over the years..
Yeah, I was just pondering how similar their later years were. Santa Barbara surf aristocracy there.

It would have been so much more satisfying if guys like that wound up surfing their golden years away at the Ranch or owning one of the houses at Rincon.


i used to surf with Pat, and later Tom, at Hammonds, sometimes Rennie would show up. Pat, would always sit way out side and get the set of the day. I have never been dropped in by any of them. They all get it. Rennie helped me join the SBCSC [ I was so young, they figured that I would never get up there since I couldn't drive and the bylaws forbade bringing surfing friends. There was a clause that said my girlfriend could be my guest.]. I love women, and put the word out. Soon I was up there all the time. None of the other members complained because of all the beauty they brought. My mom gave me a great talk about not sleeping with any one who I wouldn't be willing to spend the rest of my life with. It was wonderful to see Rennie, at Government point. Trimming is a skill that he and Pat, were so good at. I think they both would have been great sailors but it was too slow for them. You know all these people around us are so gifted and when they use their skills it it inspires us to find our own and share the love. Aloha, Guerdon.
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