Surf Anarchy

[guerdon]

It really hasn't gotten any better than this. Different, not better. One time I was at Hammonds with Rennie, and there were about 10 guys out. it was a polite rotation but still 3 wave sets. This was around 1972. We looked at each other and cracked up.[Rennie, never lets on that he has a very dry sense of irony]. Most of the boards were Yater, spoons. "You see what you have created." Step by step each new board dilutes the original stoke. Now to see folks smiling who can't make their own craft, I go to Deveraux, and watch kids on Cosco Wave Storms, so uncool yet obliviously enjoying shootin da curl. Different toys, same joys.

 

[veni vidi vici]

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[sledracr]

Most here undoubtedly already know about it, but I just ran across a series called "the Life of Kai" on youtube.

Pretty watchable. And he's an astonishing surfer (360s at Nazarre?!?)

 

[Rasputin22]

 

[veni vidi vici]

.

 

[sledracr]

 

[Snaggletooth]

Quiz:
The decal that represents Seal Beach.
My first surfboard, a step deck 10'6" Banana Model
Great nose riding board for the jetty

Whearre is the quiz partte?

 

[Liquid]

 

[veni vidi vici]

.

 

[foamy1946]

...this is what we rode in the 60s in the southern OC.

 

[sledracr]

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View attachment 572734

That looks like waikiki, by the Hilton Hawaiian Village.

Junior contests at Bowls? Kaisers?

 

[00seven]

 

[Willin']

Watching this refreshed my soul. Check out early G-land. I remember those early reports in the mags but never realized what it really was.



Long but worth every second.

 

[Rasputin22]

 

[Rasputin22]

Not exactly surfing but...

 

[Willin']

Now to see folks smiling who can't make their own craft, I go to Deveraux, and watch kids on Cosco Wave Storms, so uncool yet obliviously enjoying shootin da curl. Different toys, same joys.

Heh, heh, I'd gotten a low draft number and couldn't afford both semesters of my sophomore year at college so I dropped out, bought a $400 car and drove west.
I hooked up with a houseful of Jersey shore friends living in Isla Vista and that were going to UCSB and couch surfed there for 2 months. Surfed shoulder high Rincon once (awesome for this Jersey boy!) but generally hung around IV surfing locally, Sands, Campus PT and occasionally up the coast to spots whose names I don't recall.

Anyhow, my college GF came out from Ohio for 4 days to spend with me on my 19th birthday.

We reconnected a few years ago and she sent me this pic she snapped of me leaving her on the beach to go surf pretty crappy Devereaux Pt. I don't even remember it, but apparently she did.

She seriously rubbed it in that we had 4 days together and I chose 3' mushburgers over spending belly time with her on a beautiful sunny SoCal December day!

 

[guerdon]

Willin, you don't choose to surf, you choose to avoid things that prevent surfing. The fact that after all these years she still doesn't get it, means you made the correct choice.

 

[guerdon]

Poser garb, probably one of the Beach Boys, new line for old guys. When your market is all in nursing homes you end up remaindered at Ross

 

[bridhb]

Watching this refreshed my soul. Check out early G-land. I remember those early reports in the mags but never realized what it really was.



Long but worth every second.

Thanks, watched it last night. Learning to foil surf at 70! Inspirational! What happened to Rory Russell? He was in some of the video but never mentioned. My fading memory remembers him being a big part of "Lightning Bolt".

Edit...guess I should have looked first: https://www.roryrussell.com/

 

[Willin']

Thanks, watched it last night. Learning to foil surf at 70! Inspirational! What happened to Rory Russell? He was in some of the video but never mentioned. My fading memory remembers him being a big part of "Lightning Bolt".

Edit...guess I should have looked first: https://www.roryrussell.com/

It made me wonder if I'd followed his lifestyle/ clean living choices, might I still be able to do well the things I enjoyed in my twenties and thirties?

Cripes, he's older than me, probably the same waist size as in his 20s and still travelling around the world surfing perfect waves and riding untracked snow!

On the other hand, has he ever tasted a good bourbon or scotch?