Surf Anarchy

Point Break

Super Anarchist
25,849
3,441
Long Beach, California
"About the only surfer nuttier than JOB (Jaime O'Brien) is Gravy Wavy. (Ben Gravy)"  For the dream!

Speaking of....say someone that is too stupid old to be thinking of such things, wanted to do the Atlantic Circle in a small boat, surfing  some head highish or less waves along the way.  Any suggestions for an old fart "expedition" type board?  I think I can fit about an 8' board in the "garage" quarter berth.  Those soft tops are looking sort of neat.
Some time ago there was a surf school at the beach I was surfing at. All they use are soft tops so I talked the guy into letting me try one. It was an 8’ and very very wide. Kinda like a big pillow with a blunt nose at each end. It was actually fun. It paddles okay. It isn’t very responsive, forget any big bottom turns you might otherwise contemplate but..........for 90% of the waves on the planet and as long as you’re happy just cruising along......it would be fine. My style of surfing is pretty laid back, no snapbacks off the lip  :p  so as a boat travel board it would be fine for me. I wouldn’t want it as my full time only board though.

 

bridhb

Super Anarchist
3,368
921
Jax, FL
Some time ago there was a surf school at the beach I was surfing at. All they use are soft tops so I talked the guy into letting me try one. It was an 8’ and very very wide. Kinda like a big pillow with a blunt nose at each end. It was actually fun. It paddles okay. It isn’t very responsive, forget any big bottom turns you might otherwise contemplate but..........for 90% of the waves on the planet and as long as you’re happy just cruising along......it would be fine. My style of surfing is pretty laid back, no snapbacks off the lip  :p  so as a boat travel board it would be fine for me. I wouldn’t want it as my full time only board though.
I have been east coast for all my life unfortunately (Bahamas can go off though!)  except for 4 months, fall in Encinitas, latish 70's, working as a dishwasher / sou chef at "Rocco's Vegetarian Italian" at night (owners had steaks brought in for their meals) and surfing every day.  Anyway, Dale Dobson would show up at D Street occasionally, absolutely ripping on a Morey Doyle soft board, without a fin.  I had a 5'-6" fish which seemed perfect for Swami's!  I will never forget watching Dobson  ripping on that finless soft board though....best surfer I ever watched in person.  No idea how he did it.  Pure poetry in motion.

 

blunderfull

Super Anarchist
5 hours ago, Rasputin22 said:


Yea and claimed for wave bumping the hardboarders who dropped in on him.   Cool.

Admit to usually dropping in on spongers when it’s shitty mush.  There, my conscience clean. 

I look over quick and see a mat with grey beard guy tearing it up?   Stay clear - who knows, might be Greenough and I don’t wanna be “that guy” in that movie.

 

Point Break

Super Anarchist
25,849
3,441
Long Beach, California
Yea and claimed for wave bumping the hardboarders who dropped in on him.   Cool.

Admit to usually dropping in on spongers when it’s shitty mush.  There, my conscience clean. 

I look over quick and see a mat with grey beard guy tearing it up?   Stay clear - who knows, might be Greenough and I don’t wanna be “that guy” in that movie.
:lol:

For me it usually depends on how stupid clueless the sponger is. If they seem to know what is going on and don't flail after every wave, I treat em like anybody else out. If they are flailing idiots always in the way........they get a verbal "Hey dude, leave some for everybody else"....still stupid........get ready for a fiberglass shampoo...............usually only takes once to square them away.

Now that I aspire to be an old janitor, it'll be a whole new set of frowns............but I'm no barney, I know the rules.

 

Point Break

Super Anarchist
25,849
3,441
Long Beach, California
I have been east coast for all my life unfortunately (Bahamas can go off though!)  except for 4 months, fall in Encinitas, latish 70's, working as a dishwasher / sou chef at "Rocco's Vegetarian Italian" at night (owners had steaks brought in for their meals) and surfing every day.  Anyway, Dale Dobson would show up at D Street occasionally, absolutely ripping on a Morey Doyle soft board, without a fin.  I had a 5'-6" fish which seemed perfect for Swami's!  I will never forget watching Dobson  ripping on that finless soft board though....best surfer I ever watched in person.  No idea how he did it.  Pure poetry in motion.
I spent quite a bit of time in and around Encinitas/Leucadia in high school in the late 60's. Great surf and good vibe. Spent most of my time in south Carlsbad and foot of Tamarack street. Hada buddy who lived in those homes just south of the power plant and therefore access to the "private" beach down there (pre surfrider). Pretty good waves there as well.

 

longy

Overlord of Anarchy
6,245
878
San Diego
And it was quite the work out to get thru the break out to the line up - you got used to waiting for the break between sets.

 

Point Break

Super Anarchist
25,849
3,441
Long Beach, California
When I was 5 or so, I “surfed” my first waves in Hawaii on the ankle slappers at Kaneohe where we lived and occasionally Waimea - in the summer of course - where Mom used to love to go for a beach picnic. So we’re talking 1956ish. Pop would let me take a inflatable “Field Mattress” or in the slang....a “rubber lady” along to the beach. It was a blow up full length mattress (grey/green of course) that was so thick it was impossible to puncture with a also air inflated “pillow” at the head. At 5 it was almost unmanageable if there was any wind. It was a nipple killer as well so after the first “surf session” I was required to wear a tee shirt when I “rode” it. Boy was it fun. 

So there......I started as a sponger on a rubber lady that rubbed your nipples raw.

There.....I feel better for getting that out.

 

bridhb

Super Anarchist
3,368
921
Jax, FL
It's not a surf matt if it's not made of the blue rubberized canvas that abrades your nipples right of your chest. Those softees are poseurs.
I remember those when I was a little kid.  Crap they tore you up!  Kids these days have it so easy with boogie boards!

 

Owen

Super Anarchist
1,965
63
Camarillo
It's not a surf matt if it's not made of the blue rubberized canvas that abrades your nipples right of your chest. Those softees are poseurs.
Versatile!   IMG_5009.jpg

 

Rasputin22

Rasputin22
13,388
3,029
I did the mats in Va Beach as a kid and remember the nipple rash well. Looks like there is a whole new breed of mats from Australia (go figure!) that are much advanced. The video of the old bearded guys really opened my eyes and I was surprised at how under inflated theirs seemed to be. One guy mentioned that the new mats are the closest thing to the way pelicans glide effortlessly for miles on any wave supported by WIG (wing in ground effect) and I see how this seems to be the case for these new mats. This video just blew me away, I'm ready to get one for my geriatric surfing days!




 

Rasputin22

Rasputin22
13,388
3,029
    I was lucky enough to see George surf Big Rock back in the early 70's on one of his FB/foam 'spoons' that looked like a horse collar with the inside of the U filled in with a thin flexible sheet of glass. Those boards would flex diagonally down their length in a hard turn and then snap back and just project down the wave like a bar of soap squirting out of your hands when squeezed. We all though he must have been beamed down from some alien mothership he was so out on his own level.

Deus_Ex_Spoon_surf_board.jpg


theboardsource-woodin-greenough-spoon-411-10.jpg


He had a few other tricks up his sleeve too!

8306d192ba6023e3228fd8be8f4ce509.jpg









 

random

Super Anarchist
6,057
365
    I was lucky enough to see George surf Big Rock back in the early 70's on one of his FB/foam 'spoons' that looked like a horse collar with the inside of the U filled in with a thin flexible sheet of glass. Those boards would flex diagonally down their length in a hard turn and then snap back and just project down the wave like a bar of soap squirting out of your hands when squeezed. We all though he must have been beamed down from some alien mothership he was so out on his own level.

Deus_Ex_Spoon_surf_board.jpg
I last saw one of these on the wall of the Restaurant at Angourie in about 2004.  Nat Young was managing his accommodation and we organised a piss-up weekend with some clients.  Whatever the year it was not that long after Nat got bashed.

Imagine what would have happened if George has put three fins on that puppy?

 

Point Break

Super Anarchist
25,849
3,441
Long Beach, California
Those mats look awesome........one thing about sponging....like bodysurfing you are right there intimately in the wave face....inches away but going much faster than bodysurfing. Buddy of mine has moved to surf ski's (knees are low back issues) and he really likes it a lot.............




 
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