Tacktick Race Master battery

Tris.c

New member
10
0
Cornwall
Hi all.

When we bought our J80 a couple of years ago, a Tacktick Racemaster (believe it's a T070 or T075) was included in the Sale. It's always worked perfectly however this year we seem to be having issues. 

We believe that the battery has given up the ghost as it's not switching on even after a week in the window charging. Is it possible to change the battery on these units, and does anybody know where to get a replacement? 

Thanks in advance

Tris 

20170706_085228.jpg

 

ryley

Super Anarchist
5,501
656
Boston, MA
Before you worry about the battery, my racemaster was having problems turning on as well from the buttons. fortunately I have a remote that worked fine to turn it on and stuff. I took the black case off and found that there was a fair amount of crud under the button membrane. I cleaned it all up with a wet cloth and reassembled and the buttons have worked right ever since. Might be worth a shot before you go the battery replacement route.

 

Tris.c

New member
10
0
Cornwall
Hi All

Thanks for the swift responses,

There is an access panel in the back to get to the batteries, Ive had a look at the condition of the batteries and physically they look ok so it may be as Ryley Said; some crud under the button membrane. I will leave it charge up for a couple of days and check the condition of the batteries before removing the case and checking the buttons.

Cheers for the help so far.

 

ryley

Super Anarchist
5,501
656
Boston, MA
Hi All

Thanks for the swift responses,

There is an access panel in the back to get to the batteries, Ive had a look at the condition of the batteries and physically they look ok so it may be as Ryley Said; some crud under the button membrane. I will leave it charge up for a couple of days and check the condition of the batteries before removing the case and checking the buttons.

Cheers for the help so far.
any update?

 

Tris.c

New member
10
0
Cornwall
I've returned from working away on Monday and got around to having a look at it yesterday.  

I've put a DMM across the batteries, both pairs are giving about 2.2V each. Im assuming that both pairs should be a combined 3v when fully charged I believe I should still be able to switch the unit on and see some life. 

I've taken the unit apart to see if I could fund any crud around the switch and it all looks clean.

I'll upload some pics when I return home and can compress the pics. 

Looking at it I think I'm back to the drawing board, any further suggestions?

 

ryley

Super Anarchist
5,501
656
Boston, MA
how does the bottom of the rubber button pad look? that was what was dirty on mine and was causing incomplete contact - note, you can't use your finger on the circuit board. I think you're right about the voltage though - I'd think it should still turn on.

 

Tris.c

New member
10
0
Cornwall
how does the bottom of the rubber button pad look? that was what was dirty on mine and was causing incomplete contact - note, you can't use your finger on the circuit board. I think you're right about the voltage though - I'd think it should still turn on.
Hi all

I've managed to find a quiet 30 seconds in work so decided to do a bit more investigation. 

The batteries appear to be lithium ion rechargeable with a code of ML2430 and an output of 3v and 100mAh. There are wired in two pairs which are paralleled together so the unit runs from a 3v supply. 

I disconnected the flying leads from the battery and applied a power supply to them and switched it on. There was life in the unit buy only briefly.... the message that appeared disappeared after 5 seconds and said. 

rSt MnEt (I believe it means reset micronet)

Is it usual for the display to turn off after this amount of time if the rest of the system isn't in range? However I can't seem to work out why I can't switch the unit back on without switching the power supply off and on again. 

I now believe that the batteries are at fault for the unit not switching on. 

Thanks

Tris

20170724_102818_resized.jpg

 

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