The Laser traveler

Rolfe'd

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I know a good bit about how to play the other controls (vang, cunningham, outhaul) but nearly nothing about the traveler, I generally just keep it tight but would like to know how to use it alone and with the other controls.

 

Quagers

Member
430
48
UK
Dont think ive ever seen the traveller used as a control or regularly ajusted, keep it as tight as you can get it so that the blocks still clear the tiller, in lighter winds you may need 2 loosen it slightly to still allow them to travel. Obviously a nice flat carbon tiller allows you to get the traveller tighter, which is good.

 

WestCoast

Super Anarchist
Quagers has it. Tight tight tight in all conditions except for the very light stuff. Tight traveler lets the blocks go as far outboard as possible and gives the leech tension you need.

I think the Rooster guys have a good video of the best way to tie it on.

 

Hobie Dog

Super Anarchist
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Chesapeake Bay
+2

Also make sure you are using a nice low/no stretch line so that you don't have to keep tightening it during a race, one less thing to deal with.

I have the old style aluminum tiller and think I am going to break down and get a carbon one as I am tired of having the main block hang up on it...

 

Rolfe'd

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Allright, thanks a lot.

Also, whats the best setup for lake racing in light-medium winds?

 

BobBill

Super Anarchist
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SE Minnesota.
The above advice not withstanding, another view.

 

I had a Laser for a short time and found the traveler useful as below, but the boat's sensitivity made the traveler a critical go fast, but because it was not operated with a car system, I found it difficult to apply as it should be and eventually sold the wee scow.

 

When I used to race an I-14, Ensign and 110, we used the traveler to trim, not the mainsheet in many many conditions.

Anytime the boom rises, the main billows. To flatten, use the traveler set outboard, which will let you use the sheet to trim and still keep the sail out over the water (run and reaching). You will instantly note how the boat will plane easier and reduce any helm, which was a marked tendency of my 110 and very irritating.

When on a beat, try experimenting with the traveler and vang in tandem. The traveler allows a tighter vang haul in a breeze. (Not easy, but necessary.)

None of these go-fasts are independent and are what make the difference between crossing the line first.

 
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Death Roll

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The above advice not withstanding, another view. 

I had a Laser for a short time and found the traveler useful as below, but the boat's sensitivity made the traveler a critical go fast, but because it was not operated with a car system, I found it difficult to apply as it should be and eventually sold the wee scow.

 

When I used to race an I-14, Ensign and 110, we used the traveler to trim, not the mainsheet in many many conditions.

Anytime the boom rises, the main billows. To flatten, use the traveler set outboard, which will let you use the sheet to trim and still keep the sail out over the water (run and reaching). You will instantly note how the boat will plane easier and reduce any helm, which was a marked tendency of my 110 and very irritating.

When on a beat, try experimenting with the traveler and vang in tandem. The traveler allows a tighter vang haul in a breeze. (Not easy, but necessary.)

None of these go-fasts are independent and are what make the difference between crossing the line first.
Huh? You must have had the Laser for a very short time...

Traveler should be strapped tight as you can get it unless the block won't clear the tiller, as a few others said. That's really as complicated as it gets.

 

Rolfe'd

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Allright, thanks a lot.
Also, whats the best setup for lake racing in light-medium winds?
same thing as above
sheet In block to block, snug up the vang so there is no slack in the vang line. Cunningham on till the wrinkles are gone. Out haul off enough so you can put your hand ontop of the cleat on top of the boom and tickle the sail with ur fingers.
This is more what i was looking for, I should have said all controls.

Thats what I have been doing, just wondering if there were any differences for lake sailing vs salt with waves, etc.

 

BobBill

Super Anarchist
4,611
101
SE Minnesota.
Huh? You must have had the Laser for a very short time...
Traveler should be strapped tight as you can get it unless the block won't clear the tiller, as a few others said. That's really as complicated as it gets.
Very Short. Simply did not like the boat. Too flimsy for me, ex keel boat dude. Race it hard and you're replacing gear all the time.

 

Much prefer the Force Five, Finn (and good old Kite) and Nacra cats for wet boats, and the 110 for shear combination and fun. But, those 18s got me gawkin' big time!

 

Water: Too me, who sailed mostly in fresh but some salt in Biscayne Bay, only diff is more boyancy in salt, corrosion aside. Really never noted any difference in sailing per se, but that is me.

I don't know about tight trav in light stuff...

 

HookEm

Anarchist
810
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Houston
Allright, thanks a lot.
Also, whats the best setup for lake racing in light-medium winds?
same thing as above
sheet In block to block, snug up the vang so there is no slack in the vang line. Cunningham on till the wrinkles are gone. Out haul off enough so you can put your hand ontop of the cleat on top of the boom and tickle the sail with ur fingers.
This is more what i was looking for, I should have said all controls.

Thats what I have been doing, just wondering if there were any differences for lake sailing vs salt with waves, etc.
What you need is a Laser tuning guide. There is one in most Laser books. Try the RYA Laser Handbook. Tuning is different for Radials and Standard Rigs. You might just google "laser tuning guide" and see what you get.

For what it's worth here is a link to a tuning guide: http://www.schrothfiberglass.com/Tuninguide.htm

 

Rolfe'd

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I should be more clear, when I say lake sailing I mean flat water vs the more open water sailing. I was just wondering what people do to compare it to what I know already.

 

Hobie Dog

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Chesapeake Bay
 

Much prefer the Force Five
Are there like 5 of them in the entire world? :lol:

I have never sailed or raced against a Force Five. In fact the first time I think I have ever seen one was this weekend and the Dude was racing in Portsmouth by himself. Isn't that like having sex by yourself? Sure it will get the job done but it is a lot more fun with other peeps... :p

All joking aside it does look like a pretty cool ride but unless you have a OD fleet I would stick with a Laser because you can always find a fleet...

 
 

Much prefer the Force Five
Are there like 5 of them in the entire world? :lol:

I have never sailed or raced against a Force Five. In fact the first time I think I have ever seen one was this weekend and the Dude was racing in Portsmouth by himself. Isn't that like having sex by yourself? Sure it will get the job done but it is a lot more fun with other peeps... :p

All joking aside it does look like a pretty cool ride but unless you have a OD fleet I would stick with a Laser because you can always find a fleet...
I have one of the Force 5s and it's for sale. If anyone was interested. It's a great boat I have loved sailing it but I think I am moving on to boats that don't require as much hiking.

 

Recidivist

Super Anarchist
In the early days of Lasers we used to adjust the traveller, but it's not done anymore. Set and forget.

The concept was that by loosening the traveller, the line would rise off the deck in a vee, resulting in the traveller block staying more toward the centreline of the boat to assist in pointing. However, when the mainsheet was bolck-to-block, there was not as much leech tension. As tecnique changed it was found to be much faster to keep the traveller tight at all times. In very light winds, when you may have 10 - 12" between the end boom block and the traveller block, I find you can pull the boom toward centreline and it will stay there anyway.

 
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