justsomeguy!
Super Anarchist
Depends. What is the use?+/- % ?
A cabinetmaker measures to the nearest 32nd, homebuilders to the nearest eighth, boatbuilders to the nearest boat.
Depends. What is the use?+/- % ?
Solar and Tesla battery. The install retained to old panel and ran the wires through to the new panel and wall battery. Easier install I suppose.That is quite the collection of electrical distribution boxes off in the corner in the second shot......
I saw the Tesla name on one of the boxes, so figured that was part of it. Just very noticeable collection of gray boxesSolar and Tesla battery. The install retained to old panel and ran the wires through to the new panel and wall battery. Easier install I suppose.
Looks great. I finished 2 basements, 1 for office when first daughter born, 2nd for rec room/play area after moving for work and 2nd daughter.Okay, just finished getting the 5th of 6 closets ready for me to install tomorrow. Each closet had the wood closet poles suspended from the particle board shelf and 30 years of paint and abuse. So in each closet I have demo’d the old stuff, patched the drywall and skim coated the where the old shelves were then texture coated (a heavy knockdown) and painted two coats. Not exactly carpentry but happy to get nice closets. Done that in each closet over the last month. After tomorrow install I’ll only have the entryway closet left. Can’t wait. Tired of drywall and paint.
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I get it……..at some point - although it looks the way you want it - you’re just not gonna do it again. 2 basements is a lot more work than I did. Problem for me is It’s a lot of work and not very creative. It’s really nice when it looks good but I’d rather work with wood.Looks great. I finished 2 basements, 1 for office when first daughter born, 2nd for rec room/play area after moving for work and 2nd daughter.
No mas. Now in our next (last?) house and basement is strictly utilities and storage. There is one area I added outlets and we put some furniture and extra TV for kids, but unfinished and will stay that way.
1 daughter graduated from college 2 years ago and 2nd this May. Of course the younger daughter chose architecture/interior design as career path so she occasionally encourages us to replace/remodel/upgrade things. But that is what the checkbook is for these days (especially since tuition bills are done)……
I use it in the basement shop quite a bit; the vacuum is damn noisy in that room and I never remember to put earplugs in, so I started using the floorsweep. I’ll use it out in the big shop if it’s only a bit dusty, there’s something satisfying about slowly sweeping the floor in the evening with some chill tunes and a mellow buzz on.Am I the only one who still uses floor sweep compound to keep the shop floor clean?
about slowly sweeping the floor in the evening with some chill tunes and a mellow buzz on
My experience has been a textured wall is a heck of a lot easier to patch without showing than a flat one. With a textured wall you just overlap the area you shoot and the patch disappears. As the texture gets closer to flat it gets more difficult. Knockdown is easier than orange peel etc.I've never understood why people "texture" their walls. It just makes them look like cheap motel walls, more difficult to clean, and impossible to patch.
$$I've never understood why people "texture" their walls. It just makes them look like cheap motel walls, more difficult to clean, and impossible to patch.
That is a skill that only lots of experience can give you.My brother in law taught me drywall finishing. His method, which has served me well, is to (almost) never sand. Build up thin layers and after they're dry, scrape any ridges and high spots with the knife and apply more mud. Use the widest knife you can handle. Only sand the very last coat. By the way, a drop of dishwashing to the mud used for the final coat, makes it smooth more easily.
I have a wide trowel with a slight arch built into it. This builds a little hill over joints which allows wider feathering of seams which help disguise the joint or a repair.
Before painting, prime the snot out of the area that was mudded, otherwise, the difference in texture will show off the part that's mud from the rest of the wall.
Yep on all of the above. I avoid sanding almost all the time with a damp sponge.....of course its been a long time since I have hung drywall and done a whole room. Most of my work the last 20 years or so has been repairs and patching. Thats a different animal. For instance, this closet work. The walls are in good shape except where the shelves were. Oddly enough, underneath the cleats was unpainted but textured drywall. So you have the paint line from build up on the shelves along an entire wall. Kinda a pain. Scrape paint lines. Skim coat x 2. Texture with a foot or 18" of overlap. 1 coat on the new texture to fill in the "low area" of the textured that was unpainted. 2nd coat on entire room. Looks good. But its a PIA.My brother in law taught me drywall finishing. His method, which has served me well, is to (almost) never sand. Build up thin layers and after they're dry, scrape any ridges and high spots with the knife and apply more mud. Use the widest knife you can handle. Only sand the very last coat. By the way, a drop of dishwashing to the mud used for the final coat, makes it smooth more easily.
I have a wide trowel with a slight arch built into it. This builds a little hill over joints which allows wider feathering of seams which help disguise the joint or a repair.
Before painting, prime the snot out of the area that was mudded, otherwise, the difference in texture will show off the part that's mud from the rest of the wall.
c'mon, a 12"x8" woodworking square is only $139, on sale today $109...Nothing at Woodpecker is inexpensive.
Yep, I'd never paint a wall anything but flat anyway....except bathrooms and kitchen.Flat wall paint makes mudding errors less noticeable.