Grande Mastere Dreade
Snag's spellchecker
ok, which one of you tools did this?
Those who do know shit about tools
- Thread starter Glenn McCarthy
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Snaggletooth
SA's Morrelle Compasse
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I licke the anglled windowes to!
Here's a fun one.
A younger stupider me took the riving knife with anti-kickback off my Bosch table saw. Recently, I decided I liked living so I went to reinstall it. Alas, it was lost to the depths of time. So I bought a replacement. I installed it and all was good.
Then, this past weekend, I had to make my first cut. I was ripping a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" ply. By myself. Got the fence set, turned on the saw, and then lifted and set the ply in place to begin pushing. I started pushing. It went through the blade perfectly, then hit the riving knife. And stopped.
Like any good 'ole fashioned part-time tool user, I figured the heavy ply had caught on the table. Maybe a knot in the wood, or a splinter. So I gave it a good hard steady push. It slid forward another foot or two, then stopped moving. So I gently tried to pull it back. Nope. Forward. Nope. Pulled harder. The entire table started to tip. So now I'm stuck 6 feet away from a spinning table saw, holding the end of a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" plywood, and it's stuck. I can't reach the power switch of course. So I slowly set the plywood down on the floor. The riving knife stays stuck and the saw tips to about 25 degrees with the plywood. I sneak up under the ply, with the saw still running, and click the off button.
Turns out that they 'upgraded' my table saw model to have a wider kerf blade and added a wider riving knife to boot.
Woo. That was scary. Going to go home today, take a micrometer to the riving knife and then purchase an appropriately wide blade. Never would have guessed that as a thing.
A younger stupider me took the riving knife with anti-kickback off my Bosch table saw. Recently, I decided I liked living so I went to reinstall it. Alas, it was lost to the depths of time. So I bought a replacement. I installed it and all was good.
Then, this past weekend, I had to make my first cut. I was ripping a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" ply. By myself. Got the fence set, turned on the saw, and then lifted and set the ply in place to begin pushing. I started pushing. It went through the blade perfectly, then hit the riving knife. And stopped.
Like any good 'ole fashioned part-time tool user, I figured the heavy ply had caught on the table. Maybe a knot in the wood, or a splinter. So I gave it a good hard steady push. It slid forward another foot or two, then stopped moving. So I gently tried to pull it back. Nope. Forward. Nope. Pulled harder. The entire table started to tip. So now I'm stuck 6 feet away from a spinning table saw, holding the end of a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" plywood, and it's stuck. I can't reach the power switch of course. So I slowly set the plywood down on the floor. The riving knife stays stuck and the saw tips to about 25 degrees with the plywood. I sneak up under the ply, with the saw still running, and click the off button.
Turns out that they 'upgraded' my table saw model to have a wider kerf blade and added a wider riving knife to boot.
Woo. That was scary. Going to go home today, take a micrometer to the riving knife and then purchase an appropriately wide blade. Never would have guessed that as a thing.
justsomeguy!
Super Anarchist
Glad you didn't get hurt!
I find using a straightedge with my 7.5 inch circular saw a lot safer. Just rip slightly oversized and then a final trim on the tablesaw.
I got rid of the tablesaw due to all that. For panels, I have a really nice Makita and integral sled.
Mrleft8
Super Anarchist
Riving knives and anti kickback things are the most dangerous inventions in a woodshop since the 3 martini lunch.
Ease the sheet.
ignoring stupid people is easy
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And not doing a trial cut after a setup change...
Jules
Super Anarchist
Anti-kickback things, no doubt, as evidenced by how many owners of older tablesaws removed that worthless blade guard/anti-kickback thing.
As to riving knives, I'm not sold either way.
Grande Mastere Dreade
Snag's spellchecker
fuck you still have the original blade on the table.... maybe time to whip out $25 and go get a new diablo blade.. get the regular kerf blade
Mrleft8
Super Anarchist
I had a Bosch portable for job site work for a few weeks. It was scary underpowered, and inaccurate as all get out. I was surprised, because all my other Bosch tools were/are top notch.
I guess once you get used to a 3hp Unisaw or Powermatic 66 anything less is just job site trash.
I used to use a 14" Delta tablesaw at one shop.... It looked like a Unisaw, kinda like JAWS looks like a sandshark. That thing could throw a full sized man across the shop floor w/o even dimming the lights.
I guess once you get used to a 3hp Unisaw or Powermatic 66 anything less is just job site trash.
I used to use a 14" Delta tablesaw at one shop.... It looked like a Unisaw, kinda like JAWS looks like a sandshark. That thing could throw a full sized man across the shop floor w/o even dimming the lights.
Grizz
Beats the crap out of me
Jules, what would be the downside of a riving knife? I installed one several years ago, and never looked back.
Jules
Super Anarchist
It was after using a PM66 for a couple of months that I sold my Delta contractors saw and bought a 4HP cabinet saw.
Jules
Super Anarchist
If there's a thin kerf blade in, I can't use the blade guard and thus enjoy overhead dust collection because manufacturers automatically default to regular kerf riving knives for their blade guards.
I sometimes forget this and the board gets stuck. Over 20 years of not having to think about that spoiled me. Or made me lazy. Something like that.
Fah Kiew Tu
Curmudgeon, First Rank
depends on what you're cutting IME. A much younger, stupider me once built a small sawmill with a 36" diameter blade. Now THAT had a substantial riving knife, and needed it.
I must say in retrospect that building the thing was a lot more fun than using the thing, especially when moving heavy logs about the place is considered. It's still up my bush place undercover, and there it can stay.
No riving knife on my heavy cast iron table saw though.
FKT
justsomeguy!
Super Anarchist
How does that saying go?
"It's a poor craftsman that blames his tools?"
Snaggletooth
SA's Morrelle Compasse
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I dointe thick Merle wase sayeng that... some toolles our deade on balles accuratte and some our notte. The craftspearson wile sorte thet oute in shorte ordere.
00seven
James "Grumpy" Bond
Jules
Super Anarchist
While looking for something that would better collect dust than my DIY attempts, when freehand routing edges, I ran across the Betterly Stacc-Vac. Pricey! Then one day several years ago, in a weakened state of mind, I bought it.
Then came fitting it to my Dewalt 621 router. Nothing I did allowed full functionality of both the router and the Stacc-Vac. So it went in a drawer and I did all the routing on the router table. Not the best option sometimes.
While building the top for a boat-canvas-focused sewing table, I was faced with having to do a roundover around the perimeter of the top and dreaded the thought of sawdust flying all over the shop and the tedious cleanup job that awaited.
So I pulled the Stacc-Vac out of the drawer and finished mounting it to the router. The only thing I couldn't use is the outbound knob on the base. Not that a big deal.
In the pic below the knob is partially threaded in. When installed, it blocks the router from fully plunging.
But it sucked up EVERYTHING! It was a bit unwieldy and, when plunged, it was hard to see the table edge or the router bit so you're a little blind when making the start.
It comes with two depths, each having their own edge brushes.
The brushes were a bit long for the setting I needed and some bristles got clipped by the router bit but that had no effect on dust pickup or routing.
View of the topside. It's built like a tank. With the base installed, its heft feels like a 3HP router.
I did the whole perimeter in one shot and was surprised at how clean the edges turned out. Now I'm wondering why I was so down on it before.
Then came fitting it to my Dewalt 621 router. Nothing I did allowed full functionality of both the router and the Stacc-Vac. So it went in a drawer and I did all the routing on the router table. Not the best option sometimes.
While building the top for a boat-canvas-focused sewing table, I was faced with having to do a roundover around the perimeter of the top and dreaded the thought of sawdust flying all over the shop and the tedious cleanup job that awaited.
So I pulled the Stacc-Vac out of the drawer and finished mounting it to the router. The only thing I couldn't use is the outbound knob on the base. Not that a big deal.
In the pic below the knob is partially threaded in. When installed, it blocks the router from fully plunging.
But it sucked up EVERYTHING! It was a bit unwieldy and, when plunged, it was hard to see the table edge or the router bit so you're a little blind when making the start.
It comes with two depths, each having their own edge brushes.
The brushes were a bit long for the setting I needed and some bristles got clipped by the router bit but that had no effect on dust pickup or routing.
View of the topside. It's built like a tank. With the base installed, its heft feels like a 3HP router.
I did the whole perimeter in one shot and was surprised at how clean the edges turned out. Now I'm wondering why I was so down on it before.
Jules
Super Anarchist
This is with one coat of shellac
I'm still surprised at how well the edges turned out after only one pass. They only needed a bit of sanding before shellac.
I'm still surprised at how well the edges turned out after only one pass. They only needed a bit of sanding before shellac.
