Trimariner
Member
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- 8
Hi & congratulations for sheer bloody minded determination and perseverance! What a job! So nice to see Triple Jack coming back better than she was. Looking forward to the next post. Cheers and best wishes.
'Triple Jack' rebuild...FU Irma!
- Thread starter racinginparadise
- Start date
racinginparadise
Member
- Thread starter
- #102
guysmiley
New member
I know the feeling, my kid was born in 2015 and I haven't crewed a race since...
racinginparadise
Member
- Thread starter
- #104
Wess
Super Anarchist
You guys are amazing. I thought my wife and I had it bad when a few months after refit #1 was done on our tri we suffered a massive lightning strike which wiped out everything. So began refit #2. For us that involved much PMing and writing of checks (and doing maybe 10-20% of all the hands on work). You guys are doing all this yourselves. Freaking amazing. Wish you all the best.
racinginparadise
Member
- Thread starter
- #106
Coachroof part 2.
The sound is a bit dodgy in places but you get the idea.
The sound is a bit dodgy in places but you get the idea.
racinginparadise
Member
- Thread starter
- #107
Job done!
It was another dry, sunny day with a full team.
We craned off the 'half roof', flipped it upside down and laminated the underside.
Working on the scrim side meant less resin and a quicker job so we used slow not the ultra slow.
There were no snags at all, I'm happy to report that it went really well!
The novelty picture captures us doing illegal day charters off Gran Canaria around 1992.
It was another dry, sunny day with a full team.
We craned off the 'half roof', flipped it upside down and laminated the underside.
Working on the scrim side meant less resin and a quicker job so we used slow not the ultra slow.
There were no snags at all, I'm happy to report that it went really well!
The novelty picture captures us doing illegal day charters off Gran Canaria around 1992.
racinginparadise
Member
- Thread starter
- #109
Sheeting angle?
So, I drew lines along the new coachroof at 7 degrees from the forestay deck fitting.
This raises a few questions.
Is 7 degrees the norm?
Does anyone actually fit tracks along that 7 degree line instead of parallel with the centre line?
With higher clews does that deck angle have to increase as per the attached by Richard Woods?
So, I drew lines along the new coachroof at 7 degrees from the forestay deck fitting.
This raises a few questions.
Is 7 degrees the norm?
Does anyone actually fit tracks along that 7 degree line instead of parallel with the centre line?
With higher clews does that deck angle have to increase as per the attached by Richard Woods?
Gone Ballistic
Member
@racinginparadise
Thanks a lot for this thread, I've just found it and really enjoyed reading and watching the vids. It's great to see guys enthusiastic about fixing shit. That boat's obviously got deep into your heads!
The first sail 'after Irma' is going to be Epic.
Keep it up and good luck.
Thanks a lot for this thread, I've just found it and really enjoyed reading and watching the vids. It's great to see guys enthusiastic about fixing shit. That boat's obviously got deep into your heads!
The first sail 'after Irma' is going to be Epic.
Keep it up and good luck.
racinginparadise
Member
- Thread starter
- #112
A good weekend of solid progress despite being nowhere near the boat!
The coachroof made its way into the dinghy repair shop.
Miles Fossey arrived from St Thomas, he is a long term TJ crew and is an expert wood butcher.
His brief was to help us machine the leftover purple heart T+G 1x6" stock (from my roof at home) into lathes for fabricating the sub coachroof beams and longitudinal stringers.
He also comes up with his 'tickling stick' that we used to map the shape of the roof onto the laminating table.
Then it was a case of attaching chocks and bending/epoxying the lathes into 14' beams.
An early setback was a lathe breaking on a knot inside the grizzly planer that resulted in a broken blade and distorted blade carrier.
Chris managed to cobble it back together with an old blade so at least we had one side of the machine working well.
At the end of play today we had 2x 14' beams laminated up and the third ready to go.
We also lofted the longitudinal stringers and machined stock ready for those.
Have we overbuilt or underbuilt?
A good question, I feel the new roof before the woodwork is already stronger than the original structure.
A more pertinent question may be 'where will this new roof generate stresses elsewhere when sailing hard?'
We've been sailing around for years happily singing 'that that bends don't break'.
This rebuild will result in plenty of repaired zones that will not be bending much!
The first picture below shows peel ply 'bubbled up'.
Why does it do this? It definitely was not an exo-therm.
The coachroof made its way into the dinghy repair shop.
Miles Fossey arrived from St Thomas, he is a long term TJ crew and is an expert wood butcher.
His brief was to help us machine the leftover purple heart T+G 1x6" stock (from my roof at home) into lathes for fabricating the sub coachroof beams and longitudinal stringers.
He also comes up with his 'tickling stick' that we used to map the shape of the roof onto the laminating table.
Then it was a case of attaching chocks and bending/epoxying the lathes into 14' beams.
An early setback was a lathe breaking on a knot inside the grizzly planer that resulted in a broken blade and distorted blade carrier.
Chris managed to cobble it back together with an old blade so at least we had one side of the machine working well.
At the end of play today we had 2x 14' beams laminated up and the third ready to go.
We also lofted the longitudinal stringers and machined stock ready for those.
Have we overbuilt or underbuilt?
A good question, I feel the new roof before the woodwork is already stronger than the original structure.
A more pertinent question may be 'where will this new roof generate stresses elsewhere when sailing hard?'
We've been sailing around for years happily singing 'that that bends don't break'.
This rebuild will result in plenty of repaired zones that will not be bending much!
The first picture below shows peel ply 'bubbled up'.
Why does it do this? It definitely was not an exo-therm.
DtM
Super Anarchist
Waiting for my weekly fix on progress.
I love this project.
I love this project.
Gone Ballistic
Member
racinginparadise
Member
- Thread starter
- #115
OK, here's a link to the last u tube video.
racinginparadise
Member
- Thread starter
- #116
So that video was a week ago, yesterday we finished laminating the last two longitudionals and managed to saw 3/8" off each side of the beams.
That was a bit dodgy because they are unwieldly, 16' long and had roughish sides with epoxy remains. This was the advice from Miles ''wood butcher' Fossey in St Thomas...
[SIZE=12pt]"When you say 3/8 both sides I assume you are taking 3/4 off overall?[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]The first problem with using the table saw is that you don't have a flat side to put against the fence. The second is manhandling 16 feet of curved purpleheart across a flat surface in the opposite direction to 40 tungsten carbide teeth travelling at 3450 rpm. If you dont keep it down on the table it will bind up. If it swings a degree out of plumb it will bind up. You would have to start with one end on the table and the other 8 ft in the air then follow an uneven curve until the first end is 8 ft up again. Don't fancy it myself. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]My suggestion is to lay it on the long bench and use the electric hand plane to plane off one side square to the bottom and as true as possible. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Then stand it upright, clamp it firmly to the side of the bench and use a skilsaw and parallel fence to take off 1/16th shy of what you need the final width to be and finish the rest with a plane. If you cant get the full depth of the cut with the skilsaw, Steve can use one of his Japanese pullsaws to finish the cut before finish planing. I know that sounds like a lot of work but its much safer and far more likely to achieve a decent finish."[/SIZE]
We ignored this advice and went ahead with a new blade fitted. For the first pass we just cut 1" into the beams, second pass was the full Monty.
It was a bit sporty but 3/8" duly came off both sides and we are now a pass of a plane and a radius away from having finished beams.
Next Sunday will see us dry fitting the beams one by one, outer beam, 3 longs, mid beam, 3 longs, outer beam.
I doubt we will glue them in place until we have tidied up the underside some and splashed on a bit of paint.
So, on we go...interesting shot of half a FP thrown in. It was moving slowly along the ridge road and I was stuck behind it. No idea where it was going, hopefully to meet its other half?
"
That was a bit dodgy because they are unwieldly, 16' long and had roughish sides with epoxy remains. This was the advice from Miles ''wood butcher' Fossey in St Thomas...
[SIZE=12pt]"When you say 3/8 both sides I assume you are taking 3/4 off overall?[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]The first problem with using the table saw is that you don't have a flat side to put against the fence. The second is manhandling 16 feet of curved purpleheart across a flat surface in the opposite direction to 40 tungsten carbide teeth travelling at 3450 rpm. If you dont keep it down on the table it will bind up. If it swings a degree out of plumb it will bind up. You would have to start with one end on the table and the other 8 ft in the air then follow an uneven curve until the first end is 8 ft up again. Don't fancy it myself. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]My suggestion is to lay it on the long bench and use the electric hand plane to plane off one side square to the bottom and as true as possible. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Then stand it upright, clamp it firmly to the side of the bench and use a skilsaw and parallel fence to take off 1/16th shy of what you need the final width to be and finish the rest with a plane. If you cant get the full depth of the cut with the skilsaw, Steve can use one of his Japanese pullsaws to finish the cut before finish planing. I know that sounds like a lot of work but its much safer and far more likely to achieve a decent finish."[/SIZE]
We ignored this advice and went ahead with a new blade fitted. For the first pass we just cut 1" into the beams, second pass was the full Monty.
It was a bit sporty but 3/8" duly came off both sides and we are now a pass of a plane and a radius away from having finished beams.
Next Sunday will see us dry fitting the beams one by one, outer beam, 3 longs, mid beam, 3 longs, outer beam.
I doubt we will glue them in place until we have tidied up the underside some and splashed on a bit of paint.
So, on we go...interesting shot of half a FP thrown in. It was moving slowly along the ridge road and I was stuck behind it. No idea where it was going, hopefully to meet its other half?
"
racinginparadise
Member
- Thread starter
- #117
Hmmm, it's a bit of a worry finding myself replying to my own post of a week ago.
To be frank, laying largish chunks of hardwood on an upside-down coachroof could be viewed as a bit 'pedestrian' after watching Sail GP and the Carib 600 wrap up.
Hey ho, on we go.
The mental challenge of Sunday was cutting accurate mortice and tenon joints for the 7 degree longitudionals.
'you can cut it off but you can't add it on!'
Paul and Steve got one done, 9 more to go.
Question, we are gluing 14' beams to cured rough epoxy laminate with some voids to fill here and there.
Add only silica to thicken the epoxy or go High Density or fibers or a combo?
My gut is a combo of High Density and silica after wetting out. It's much easier to radius than any mix with fibers.
Straight silica to my mind can be brittle when cured, not great for voids?
The voids are no more than 3/8" and are less than 8" long.
Take it to 'fix it anarchy'? yes maybe.
To be frank, laying largish chunks of hardwood on an upside-down coachroof could be viewed as a bit 'pedestrian' after watching Sail GP and the Carib 600 wrap up.
Hey ho, on we go.
The mental challenge of Sunday was cutting accurate mortice and tenon joints for the 7 degree longitudionals.
'you can cut it off but you can't add it on!'
Paul and Steve got one done, 9 more to go.
Question, we are gluing 14' beams to cured rough epoxy laminate with some voids to fill here and there.
Add only silica to thicken the epoxy or go High Density or fibers or a combo?
My gut is a combo of High Density and silica after wetting out. It's much easier to radius than any mix with fibers.
Straight silica to my mind can be brittle when cured, not great for voids?
The voids are no more than 3/8" and are less than 8" long.
Take it to 'fix it anarchy'? yes maybe.
DtM
Super Anarchist
Great workshop and beautiful work. Great to have a crew of guys like you have.
Well done. Can't answer your technical question.
Love it.
Well done. Can't answer your technical question.
Love it.
Rasputin22
Rasputin22
- 14,956
- 4,510
Purpleheart + Multihull = Overbuilt
Russell Brown
Super Anarchist
For the highly loaded joints, High Density and Silica after priming with un-thickened epoxy is best. Remember that High Density is the only filler that can actually add strength to the epoxy, so don't make the mix too thick for gluing as too much filler can be a negative. Silica is important as a thickener as it inhibits penetration (to avoid starved joints) and makes the thickened epoxy workable. I add low-density to the above fillers for structural fillets to add volume and make the epoxy less like granite when sanding
