Hi & congratulations for sheer bloody minded determination and perseverance! What a job! So nice to see Triple Jack coming back better than she was. Looking forward to the next post. Cheers and best wishes.
You guys are amazing. I thought my wife and I had it bad when a few months after refit #1 was done on our tri we suffered a massive lightning strike which wiped out everything. So began refit #2. For us that involved much PMing and writing of checks (and doing maybe 10-20% of all the hands on work). You guys are doing all this yourselves. Freaking amazing. Wish you all the best.
Thanks a lot for this thread, I've just found it and really enjoyed reading and watching the vids. It's great to see guys enthusiastic about fixing shit. That boat's obviously got deep into your heads!
So that video was a week ago, yesterday we finished laminating the last two longitudionals and managed to saw 3/8" off each side of the beams.
That was a bit dodgy because they are unwieldly, 16' long and had roughish sides with epoxy remains. This was the advice from Miles ''wood butcher' Fossey in St Thomas...
[SIZE=12pt]"When you say 3/8 both sides I assume you are taking 3/4 off overall?[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]The first problem with using the table saw is that you don't have a flat side to put against the fence. The second is manhandling 16 feet of curved purpleheart across a flat surface in the opposite direction to 40 tungsten carbide teeth travelling at 3450 rpm. If you dont keep it down on the table it will bind up. If it swings a degree out of plumb it will bind up. You would have to start with one end on the table and the other 8 ft in the air then follow an uneven curve until the first end is 8 ft up again. Don't fancy it myself. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]My suggestion is to lay it on the long bench and use the electric hand plane to plane off one side square to the bottom and as true as possible. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Then stand it upright, clamp it firmly to the side of the bench and use a skilsaw and parallel fence to take off 1/16th shy of what you need the final width to be and finish the rest with a plane. If you cant get the full depth of the cut with the skilsaw, Steve can use one of his Japanese pullsaws to finish the cut before finish planing. I know that sounds like a lot of work but its much safer and far more likely to achieve a decent finish."[/SIZE]
We ignored this advice and went ahead with a new blade fitted. For the first pass we just cut 1" into the beams, second pass was the full Monty.
It was a bit sporty but 3/8" duly came off both sides and we are now a pass of a plane and a radius away from having finished beams.
Next Sunday will see us dry fitting the beams one by one, outer beam, 3 longs, mid beam, 3 longs, outer beam.
I doubt we will glue them in place until we have tidied up the underside some and splashed on a bit of paint.
So, on we go...interesting shot of half a FP thrown in. It was moving slowly along the ridge road and I was stuck behind it. No idea where it was going, hopefully to meet its other half?
For the highly loaded joints, High Density and Silica after priming with un-thickened epoxy is best. Remember that High Density is the only filler that can actually add strength to the epoxy, so don't make the mix too thick for gluing as too much filler can be a negative. Silica is important as a thickener as it inhibits penetration (to avoid starved joints) and makes the thickened epoxy workable. I add low-density to the above fillers for structural fillets to add volume and make the epoxy less like granite when sanding