Twisted Rod Rigging - now what?

No qualified individual or organization is going to say its ok and sign off on it in writing. Why would anyone take on that liability? And a conversation and opinion that it was ok isn’t going to be worth shit if it does actually fail and come down in the future.

So if you were going to try and get away without replacing it, keeping quiet was the best answer. Posting details under a name and giving boat type details that an insurer will find in the event you ever have a rig failure in the next 20yrs was your second mistake. You signed the check to replace the shroud when you pressed “post” on this thread.

On the positive side, asking the question does suggest that you aren’t an arse but really are someone who cares and will replace the shroud rather than risk damage and injury. But replacement the only responsible outcome here.

It sucks balls because you don’t really want different bits of rod thats all different ages. Especially not side to side. Keep good records: replacing one shroud is a recipe for the other side staying in service long after it should have been replaced.

Thanks. This is all likely true, but I'm price insensitive when it comes to safety.

My intuition and inclination is to just replace the thing and stop worrying about it. I'm just trying to make the best and most informed decision and also avoid unnecessary boat downtime...in the unlikely case this was some sort of surprise no-big-deal thing and my materials and metallurgical intuition is just wrong.

I'd estimate that the cost to replace a single rod shroud at about $2k +/-, with the second one half that, which is pretty short money given the consequences.

FWIW, they're all only 2 years old and haven't seen any offshore pounding, or even a spinnaker hoist since the install. Worse case maybe they replace both capshrouds, but can't get the material, long delays ensue, and I miss a few races?
 

Remodel

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It depends upon the length of the twisted section.... 1,440 degrees of rotation in a mile of rod is probably fine; 1,440 degrees of rotation in a 5 foot section of rod is probably trashed; inbetween who knows. Certainly my intuition isn't good enough to have any sense of this. This needs expertise.
Agree 100%, though I doubt you'll find a rigger in the US that would risk the liability of saying it's OK and then risk having the rig come down a month later.
 

bgytr

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It might not be any big deal. How long is the twisted section? What is the diameter of the rod? Get a good look at the end terminals. Was it 4 full turns or 4 half turns? How old is the rod?
 

Go Left

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If you unload it and let it be completely free, does it untwist on its own or has it "taken a set"? If it has taken a set that is definitely bad. If it rotates back to straight on its own volition, that is a good sign but I am not the person who can tell you that it is OK. I would definitely talk to a good rigger with strong technical background.
If it wants to unwind elastically, then there is a constant twisting load being applied to the swaged fitting and/or the associated turnbuckle. Which is not good, I suspect.

And wouldn't that "urge to untwist" appear when the pin was being inserted into the chainplate?
 

JoeO

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The shear strain in the rod will be ~2xpixrxn/L (r = radius, n= number of turns, L is length of rod)
The material appears to be cold drawn, which basically means that they stretch the crap out of it to get it up to its current yield strength.

There are some stress strain curves around, and you can probably find more data on the exact degree of cold drawing used by navtec.

If you understand all of this you can probably make a judgement on what damage if any you have done. I would note that your best test would be the one suggested earlier in that if the rod remained fully elastic you have not caused any plastic deformation.
Yep, if the shear stress is below the yield point/knee you could argue that it's elastic and probably OK. Need accurate stress/strain curve of the annealed rod tho.

The stress is given by r*d(Theta)/dz = G*r*(2pi*r*N)/L = G*2pi*r^2*N/L

My quick calc with generic values for mod of elasticity (30e6 psi) and YS (60 kpsi) shows that the material did yield. But don't take my work for it as I'm multi-tasking now and probaly made some mistake. Replace the rod.
 

Raz'r

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Thanks. This is all likely true, but I'm price insensitive when it comes to safety.

My intuition and inclination is to just replace the thing and stop worrying about it. I'm just trying to make the best and most informed decision and also avoid unnecessary boat downtime...in the unlikely case this was some sort of surprise no-big-deal thing and my materials and metallurgical intuition is just wrong.

I'd estimate that the cost to replace a single rod shroud at about $2k +/-, with the second one half that, which is pretty short money given the consequences.

FWIW, they're all only 2 years old and haven't seen any offshore pounding, or even a spinnaker hoist since the install. Worse case maybe they replace both capshrouds, but can't get the material, long delays ensue, and I miss a few races?
2 years old? Replace the one, then replace it all on your normal schedule. Yeah, 2 years early for that one. Given the weather we've been having in these parts, and the fact that the breeze machine is about to turn on for the summer, you might have to miss a few sailing days. Maybe one of the locals has something in a left over spool...
 

TJSoCal

Super Anarchist
The shear strain in the rod will be ~2xpixrxn/L (r = radius, n= number of turns, L is length of rod)
The material appears to be cold drawn, which basically means that they stretch the crap out of it to get it up to its current yield strength.

There are some stress strain curves around, and you can probably find more data on the exact degree of cold drawing used by navtec.

If you understand all of this you can probably make a judgement on what damage if any you have done. I would note that your best test would be the one suggested earlier in that if the rod remained fully elastic you have not caused any plastic deformation.

They say that in theory, theory and practice are the same. But in practice, they're not...
 

ExOmo

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Yep, if the shear stress is below the yield point/knee you could argue that it's elastic and probably OK. Need accurate stress/strain curve of the annealed rod tho.

The stress is given by r*d(Theta)/dz = G*r*(2pi*r*N)/L = G*2pi*r^2*N/L

My quick calc with generic values for mod of elasticity (30e6 psi) and YS (60 kpsi) shows that the material did yield. But don't take my work for it as I'm multi-tasking now and probaly made some mistake. Replace the rod.
YS 60ksi from the data sheet but that would just be annealed mill condition and not the drawn rod as mentioned before...don't have my Navtec data sheets in front of me at the moment...
 

Zonker

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OK, I did some digging. One assumption that is critical is the actual yield of Nitronic -50 rod as used in rigging. It varies a lot depending on how much cold drawn it is. I used 750 MPa due to a reference in Practical Sailor saying "about 3x 316 s.s.". This is not exactly conclusive!!

But when you do the math and based on the 4 turns guess, it's very very close to yielding due to rotation. Here's my math. The 21 N.m. torque sounds a bit low but it's only -10 rod (1/4") so doesn't take much to torque it.

The calculated shear stress with the strength assumption and 4 turns is 404 MPa and shear strength (when it starts to plastically yield) is 432 MPa i.e. very very close either way. Change any of the assumptions slightly and you are sure to have yielded it.

Since you can't be sure it was just 4 turns I think you must replace it.


Anglular deflection of a torsion solid shaft:
α = 32 L T / (G π D4)
So T = α G pi D^4/(32 L)
where
L = length
13.7​
m45 ft
T = torsional moment
20.80​
Nm
G = shear modulus of rigidity
68947572932​
PaNitronic 50 10e6 psi
D = diameter
0.0064​
m-10 Rod
α = angular shaft deflection
25.13​
radians
rotation = 4 x 360
1440​
deg
The shear stress in a solid circular shaft in a given position can be expressed as:
τ = T r / J
where
τ = shear stress (Pa, lbf/ft2 (psf))404,176,600Pa
404
Mpa
T = twisting moment (Nm, lbf ft)
20.80​
N.m
r = distance from center to stressed surface in the given position (m, ft)
0.0032​
m
J = Polar Moment of Inertia of Area (m4, ft4) = π D^4 / 32
1.6471E-10​
m^4
Yield strength of Nitronic 50 for rigging
750​
Mpaslight guess, strength varies a lot
shear strength
433
Mpa
 

Zonker

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I'll go out on a limb and say they probably don't cold draw it very much at all.

- Even at 15% cold reduction the difference between yield and tensile failure is very close
- the reduction in area is already 56% with 15% cold reduction; to keep a consistent diameter for rod rigging that much reduction might be too much.

So... just maybe the yield strength is > 750 MPa I guessed. But how much more?

1680248770356.png
 

lakeneuch

Member
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If I read it correctly on the internet image of a loos gauge I just seen, the 50 to 55 reading on it translates to approx 300 MPa of stress. Combined with the 435 MPa found by Zonker, this would give you a Von Mises Stress of about 815 MPa (as the lawyers say: this is not professional advice). Given the level of trust in the data acquisition (about 4 turns...) I would absolutely replace, even if the yield stress is significally higher than this, but you probably dont have to worry about the shroud failing in port.
 

bgytr

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If I read it correctly on the internet image of a loos gauge I just seen, the 50 to 55 reading on it translates to approx 300 MPa of stress. Combined with the 435 MPa found by Zonker, this would give you a Von Mises Stress of about 815 MPa (as the lawyers say: this is not professional advice). Given the level of trust in the data acquisition (about 4 turns...) I would absolutely replace, even if the yield stress is significally higher than this, but you probably dont have to worry about the shroud failing in port.
Yes, the tesile stress needs to be combined with the torsion. Another consideration is that peak stress will only happen just near the outer surface of the rod then drop off quickly towards the center. If it did get past yield, it might only be a very small amount of material that did yield. If the typical loading only gets up to maybe 15 percent or so of yield and only a small amount of material is impacted, it could be fine depending on age of the rod.
If it's close to end of life, replace it. If not, some thorough calcs and inspection could save some bucks. Also, just because the material goes past yield (depending by how much) doesn't mean it won't take load anymore.
 

kent_island_sailor

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Agree 100%, though I doubt you'll find a rigger in the US that would risk the liability of saying it's OK and then risk having the rig come down a month later.
I ran into that getting a rigging survey. "If it is old and it is rod, I will fail it right now from my office for free, no need to pay me". I doubt any shop would sign off on this either!
 

JohnMB

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I ran into that getting a rigging survey. "If it is old and it is rod, I will fail it right now from my office for free, no need to pay me". I doubt any shop would sign off on this either!
ok probably spending too much time on this, but found this:
my favorite quote is
If a rod is bent and then straightened before further service, depending on the severity of the bend, it could be used again to provide a normal working life. This is a judgment call, and your local Navtec service agent should be consulted.
The primary failure mode seems to be fatigue, which makes sense.
 

longy

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There is NO definitive answer, this is a very low incidence occurrence. Due to liability, pro shops are just going to say 'replace'.
My take is: if rod has no permanent twisting after removing the turns, it's OK. I would examine the rod closely where it goes over the spreader tip. You don't state if the rod bends at that point or continuous straight
 
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