What is needed to spray awlgrip or other 2 part paints

Soho

Member
419
7
Bermuda..
I would like to try my hand at spraying paints like Awlgrip or a another 2 part, Interlux Perfection etc. Here is where i am,

- no experience spraying

-have a small Whaler that I can practice on - I can sand and reshoot to learn

- have a Campbell Hausfield DIY type air compressor, checking the capacity now, but it is a medium size horizontal, must have 13 gallon tank and put out 5 scfm @ 40psi ?

- is it very unrealistic to expect to get good results from a 70$ HVLP type gun which I can buy at Northern Tool, or should I get a specialized gun somewhere else ? What type where

- At this point I am just trying to figure out what equipment I need, technique I can figure out later.

I did try to search the Forums, but no luck for whatever reason

Thanks for some concise input.

-

 

guerdon

Anarchist
Soho, Perfection can be brushed on with the right thinner. To spray L.P. paint you will need a H.V.L.P. gun and an airsuit. Your compressor doesn't have enough C.F.M. to supply a H.V.L.P. gun. The learning curve is expensive. You should contact someone in your area who does this type of work,and get their opinion. I brushed for years, finally one of my painting pals gave me his old turbine H.V.L.P. it cost several hundred dollars to rebuild it and it works great with the right reducer/thinner for the weather of the day. This stuff is toxic if sprayed hence the fresh air suit. Before I got this setup I brushed L.P. quite well for years[i even did my Porsche with a brush] If you plan ahead with your break points brushing can be done and you will escape a lot cost and complication and toxic compounds. Good luck to you.

 
The short answer from my experience is don't waste your time and money spraying, just roll and tip it. Unless you plan to do a lot of future projects with these type of finishes, then it may be worth getting the spraying technique down. Here's the long answer: I just recently refinished our carbon fiber sprit with perfection. I started with roll & tip, then sprayed a couple coats, pushed it too much and got a run which had to be sanded off, then decided to go back to roll & tip.

At least with the perfection product I found you are unlikely to get a much better finish spraying vs. roll and tip and especially if you don't have a really good spray set up and experience spraying that particular finish. I have quite a bit of experience spraying poly's and lacquers on furniture and have a really good spray set up but had no prior experience spraying yacht epoxy finishes. As with any new finish it takes a lot of trial and error to get the right gun settings and thinning before you get it right. Once you get it then it's easy, no problem. But getting there usually involves a whole lot of f-ups. Also keep in mind these finishes are ultra toxic, it's recommended you have a full hazmat hood with separate oxygen supply. If you're just spraying it once or twice and you're doing it outside then maybe not much of an issue if you use the home depot respirator but definitely something to consider. Even just roll and tipping gives off a pretty nasty toxic smell

 

SloopJonB

Super Anarchist
68,624
12,314
Great Wet North
You need a huge compressor to run an HVLP gun - like 14CFM or more. I've never heard that you must use HVLP equipment for 2 pt. LP paint but I suppose you don't want a lot of overspray since it's so toxic.

You also have to have a supplied air respirator (basically SCUBA gear) because the paint will kill you if you breath it in an atomized state.

Not for amateurs.

Your compressor sounds barely adequate for conventional spraying - if that.

 

Auld Mug

Super Anarchist
1,137
0
Having the correct kit is one thing and Its about 1% of the process.

Understanding correct surface prep, spraying application/ method etc is something that takes time, a good tutour, and money.

To start your spraying apprenticeship with difficult 2 pack PU is like learning to sail with a AC catamaran.

Skilled applicators not only have years of experince but understand spraying viscosities, gun set ups, application techniques, dot dot dot.

It would be easier and more effective for you to just burn your money and pour the paint on the ground than go to the effort of prepping and sprayng with the ability and kit you have.

 
G

Guest

Guest
Some of whats said is true and some not so much, you can spray 2 pot LPU with conventional a spraygun, spraying will give you an excellent finish if you get the humidity and reducer right and use the right method which is usually a tack coat first then 15 minutes later a "gloss"coat. Spraying is not too hard but some LPU paints are more demanding than others- do your research.

You dont need a respirator but a good filtered mask will do the trick if working outdoors, inside you need proper gear and a vented shed. The beauty of spraying is the speed and and area covered. One squirt and your all done!

 
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Max Rockatansky

holy fuckfarts!
3,813
970
If there is someone in your area who is an excellent painter, ask if you might be allowed to apprentice, as in without pay so you can get the learning experience

 
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Soho

Member
419
7
Bermuda..
Thank you everyone for the input. My two sort of immediate "projects" would be recoating my 18' spin pole and then painting my 16', 1969 Boston whaler, inside and out. ( and given how she looks now, anything would be an improvement, so perfection in finish is not required.) Sounds like roll and tip would work for both and from a time perspective, probably be more efficient as I know how to do that. Also if I want a spray finish, I could probably prep the items myself and get someone local to shoot them for me, a little more expensive in hard $ spent but if I factor in value of my time to do all the logistical prep for spraying, maybe do it twice, not a bad deal. That is actually what I did when I did the Whaler in 2000, I prepped and a buddy painted it for me.

I just wanted to see if it was realistic to set up to spray myself with the compressor that I have. I also do not have a great physical space to spray in/at in terms of considerations for overspray and the climate where I am is typically higher humidity, usually 70% or more if summer.

Let's close this thread, again thank you again for the input.

 
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ryley

Super Anarchist
5,506
661
Boston, MA
I'm no expert, but when the carbon pole on my elliott needed recoating I used perfection plus and a preval sprayer. Indoors, respirator, suit etc. but the results were quite alright for pole that spent more than half its life retracted into the hull. I wouldn't want to do a whaler with preval though.

 

Soho

Member
419
7
Bermuda..
Thanks Ryley, the pole is just a nice to do, it is a little nicked up so I will fill and fair and roll and tip or try a Preval, it is not mission critical to be perfect, just tidy it up. This time I will make a cover for it.....did one for the reaching strut and it has helped on the UV side at least. The things are strapped to the deck for 99% of their lives.

The whaler sides are actually really narrow, like 12- inches at the back widening to maybe 18 at the bow, so I think that roll and tip will work fine there. Inside the boat is trickier, but we will see what we can do. It is not a tomorrow project anyhow.

It was just good to get input from the SA Team, always some insightful comments

Maybe we should open a "relationships counseling" forum....

 

couchsurfer

Super Anarchist
18,322
134
NA westcoast
.

...here's the trick for ultimate LPU finishes that few shops will tell you,,,,

Spray a good solid basecoat,,, wetsand with 220 the next day,,, spray with a light finishcoat of clearcoat.

The chances of getting a perfect finish on your first round, especially in regular shop conditions, long open wet time, isn't all that great.

The open wet time involved as the base is built up allows for bugs, dust, textures to creep in,,, a quick wetsand while the paint hasn't fully cured quickly takes care of these,,, one shot of clearcoat with maximum flow will escape from tackiness, vulnerability much quicker, and of course produce a much deeper luster in your finish. Clearcoat also is the toughest of finishes.

Another twick.... mentioned by the local Interthane rep, is that you can use the soft base with the hard finish hardener and get a median hardness that is still buffable. ;)

 
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RKoch

Super Anarchist
14,865
346
da 'burg
You don't need a HVLP gun, standard spray gun is fine. It'll be a big help if you get someone to teach you. Get a good respirator, and spray outside. 2-part paints are very bad for you.

 

gcutter

Member
270
27
Nofolk, VA
Having done both spray and roll and tip, with Perfection roll and tip is amazing, less toxic and costly. So to spraying, what has been said before but one more thing (sorry): pressure pot for the paint. You get much more even flow and quality coat. My last gun (yes, I've given up) was an HVLP and your compressor is way, way too low volume (High volume, low pressure).

For small jobs, Lance is right, but again, I'd just roll and tip IF you're using perfection (based on actual experience).

Cheers, Greg

 

Will1073

Anarchist
744
140
DON'T SPRAY PERFECTION WITHOUT A PRESSURIZED HOOD. Isocyanates are why Perfection is now banned in Canada.

 

Gouvernail

Lottsa people don’t know I’m famous
37,992
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Austin Texas
The answer to the OP.

Have fun!!

You will probably screw up and ruin some material

You won't die from the fumes

It is very stupid to expose yourself to the fumes and your health will suffer from it.

It is also stupid to drive in heavy traffic every day. Those fumes are bad too.... not S bad per minute but a few weeks of rush hour exceeds a couple months bites of paint fumes.

Wear the best mask you can buy

Have fun!!

I am learning to weld and I am learning spaniish

There is no way in hell I will weld anything if there is a significant downside to failure of my weld . But I certainly will have fun wasting a bunch welding rod and steel while I figure out how to do decent welds

As for the Spanish??? Sometimes "oh" instead of "A"

Entirely changes a statement to hilarity. I already tried to tell a guy it was raining a lot when in fact I told him he had big balls

Have fun

That is why people have hobbies

Learning how to paint is also what makes it easy to understand why I need at least a couple thousand bucks to paint that Whaler

 

Gouvernail

Lottsa people don’t know I’m famous
37,992
5,537
Austin Texas
The fumes won't kill you. They'll just make you dumber.

The spray contains cyanide compounds that are really toxic.

Without forced air gear, stick with roll&tip,
Roll and tip

Also gas nasty fumes tgatvwill attack your brain.

Super good ventilation, a great mask and it is smart to wear a Tavel suit with thick clothing beneath and even smarter to wear a suit with outside air pumped in.

Odds are painting one boat with a very good mask won't change your life.bathing and Going for a long walk after is always smart

 

Will1073

Anarchist
744
140
I'm all for your support of people learning to do the job correctly, but we cannot risk glossing over the health risks that come with working with these products. Yes, painting one boat in your life versus doing it for a living does (in theory) reduce health risks, but there is still risk involved.

It's f*cking hard to sail with Parkinson's.

 

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