Yanmar 4LHA htp replacement

SCAVAIG

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Hi All,
Any ideas of good source old tech. Yanmar Marine 4 cyl. turbo, intercooled. New or quality recon.
Trying to dodge hot rail fuel injected and laptop electronics man.
 
Where are you? Locally some of the engine places seem to always have something kicking around, repower purchase that fell through etc. When we repowered to a Beta I looked at several Yanmars that fit this bill, decided to go with the Beta as I liked the simple Kubota block and they seemed like they were in it for the long haul as far as parts etc.
 

Zonker

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Yeah it also depends on the emissions region you are in. EU / USA / etc etc all have different rules now on what diesels are allowed to be sold.

For example Nanni 4.65 (59 HP, N/A) Fuel system - Mechanical Indirect injection

But might be EU only sales. Website brochure doesn't say.
 

slug zitski

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Mitsubishi , Lister Petter are also marinized for small craft


A remanufactured marinized Cummins 4 cylinder is a very good engine

nothing wrong with remanufactured engines

04400B79-EAE4-435C-A707-F55C43DF23C0.png
 

SCAVAIG

New member
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Where are you? Locally some of the engine places seem to always have something kicking around, repower purchase that fell through etc. When we repowered to a Beta I looked at several Yanmars that fit this bill, decided to go with the Beta as I liked the simple Kubota block and they seemed like they were in it for the long haul as far as parts etc.
Thank you, Sassafrass, I am in Belfast and subject to EU regs. but this is a replacement or rebuild so I don't expect any trouble.
Because of EU regs there seems to be limited import of the direct injection engines even though they are good and are mechanical tech.
 

slug zitski

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Thank you, Sassafrass, I am in Belfast and subject to EU regs. but this is a replacement or rebuild so I don't expect any trouble.
Because of EU regs there seems to be limited import of the direct injection engines even though they are good and are mechanical tech.
Seem the market for small diesels is small and dominated by a few manufactures

same with marinization

 

Zonker

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There are also HP/kW break points. As some low power level you can still get mechanical injection in EU regions on new engines. But I think it's pretty low (15-20 kW??) Sorry not my typical size engine.
 

steele

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Although Volvo D1 and D2 engines are mechanicle, they have a MDI (mechanical to digital interface). This little black box not only translates engine data and alarms to Volvo's version of NMEA2000, it also handles the stop and start functions. When it fails (not if) you can not start the engine. If it fails while running the only option is to pull the emergancy stop lever on the engine to shut it down. There have been multiple recalls without fixing the problem. Some work arounds are available,
Keep in mind if you go the manual start route instrumentation and alarms will not work. You can cary a spare box, $1000.
 

Zonker

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Since it's a mechanical engine, when the magic box fails:

- remove the stop solenoid (or just pull on it with some vice grips and clamp it in the correct position)
- carry some jumper cables and start the engine with power to the starter directly
- if the lift pump is electric jumper it, if mechanical it will run directly once the engine runs
 

blunted

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Trivia question for anyone with knowledge.

I am trying to remove my alternator from a Yanmar 4JH 4AE. The bolt head is rounded off somewhat and frozen in place. There is no nut on the back side of the engine casting but there is a bushing kind of thing that goes between the ears of the alternator.

I've tried lube, heat, foul language, propane, electric induction, vice grips, leverage. The induction cannot seem to heat it up as there is too much thermal mass. The tool works fine on stand alone bolts etc.

So my question for the knowledgable here is: Is the engine block casting threaded or is the grippy bit in this problem the bushing looking thing on the back side of the engine casting? Which part is threaded.

I am trying to determine next steps patiently without damaging the bolt, the engine, my pride etc.

Sorry for the thread detour, didn't want to start a whole new thread for this

alternator.jpg
Rear of alternator.jpg
 

El Borracho

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Usually the bolt would slide thru all 4 holes and have a nut at the end. Maybe that bolt was broken off inside.

All those pieces are prone to snapping off so you are correct to be careful. If the alt is trash then an angle grinder on its tangs could be considered.
 

blunted

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Usually the bolt would slide thru all 4 holes and have a nut at the end. Maybe that bolt was broken off inside.

All those pieces are prone to snapping off so you are correct to be careful. If the alt is trash then an angle grinder on its tangs could be considered.
Cheers,

Next up this weekend is filing the edges of the bolt flatter then try again with 6 sided socket and a breaker bar. We had an engine rebuild a few years ago and that's when this would have been installed last and they may have taken liberties with the mounting arrangement, thus no bolt extending all the way through, no nut on the backside etc.

I have a new Alternator ready to install but I was hoping to send this one off for a rebuild so I have a back up. It's not the end of the world if it goes in the trash, but cutting it off would likely just open the door to more fuckery trying to get a seized bolt drilled out of the engine casting, if in fact it's threaded into that part
 

DDW

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That is an odd mounting arrangement, as El says normally the bolt goes through. Given than you have good access to the back, I'd break the bolt off (if it didn't come out first), easy enough to drill through and put in the thru bolt.
 

DDW

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Although Volvo D1 and D2 engines are mechanicle, they have a MDI (mechanical to digital interface). This little black box not only translates engine data and alarms to Volvo's version of NMEA2000, it also handles the stop and start functions. When it fails (not if) you can not start the engine.
I like the MDI. It is only on engines about D rev or later. Mine was an A, all steam gages, and I removed all that stuff and converted it to D rev MDI. Sold the panel and wiring harness on eBay. It has worked perfectly for 14 years. The engine has a mechanical fuel pump and a separate mechanical stop lever so it wouldn't be that difficult to start or stop with no electronics at all.
 

steele

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I also like the idea of the MDI. For very little money I was able to add a gateway and send all my engine data to my NMEA backbone. This allows me to access engine data on my sailing instruments and MFD, much handier than the dedicated engine display at foot level in the cockpit.
The issue is the electronic black box MDI is a weak link in an otherwise simple and reliable motor. There are work arounds as noted by DDW and Zonk, see the video above. As I stated doing so deprives you of instrument data and alarms. It is too bad volvo hobled the system with a trouble prone device.
For a really complex work around I ran into this. It is a more permanent solution, but overkill for my needs,
 

Zonker

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If you file the nut flat, the hex size may decrease. So hammering on a inch socket might be the thing.

Is it a 14 or 12mm head?

14mm = 0.551"
use 1/2" socket?
12mm = 0.472"
use 7/16" = 0.4375


I think that the thing between the tangs IS a bushing. The nut is missing on the back. If you have space can you fit a 1 size smaller bolt into the hole and hit it with a big hammer and knock the bolt from behind??


From the parts manual nothing matches your installation. But the open hole on the back sure looks like a nut is missing. Matches other smaller Yanmars as well.

1670003896002.png


Hitachi Alternator - up to June 2012

1670003845934.png


Hitachi 80A - I think they missed the lower mounting bracket

1670004061489.png



80A Bosch


1670004129705.png


1670004009580.png
 

Zonker

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Just noticed the 10.9 marking on the head. That's a higher strength bolt (similar to Grade 8 US bolt). Replace with same strength. From auto parts store if not your local Yanmar dealer.
 

longy

Overlord of Anarchy
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The alt attaches to the bracket with a long bolt. Yours has broken off the threaded end. The 'sleeve/insert' you can see in the aft alt tang is to allow for slight differences in the spacers andengine mounts. It is meant to slide towards/into the alt arm to take out any gap in the installation. It is common to tap this sleeve out a bit prior to installation of a alt to get enuff gap to easily install the fiddly spacers. A new alt comes with the sleeve un-installed. The forward alt arm does not have this sleeve.
Removal - I'd concentrate on applying rotation, the alt arm is just cast aluminum. I suspect the bolt failed at the start of thread & still goes almost all the way thru the system. Stick a probe in the hole & measure depth.
 

DDW

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I also like the idea of the MDI. For very little money I was able to add a gateway and send all my engine data to my NMEA backbone. This allows me to access engine data on my sailing instruments and MFD, much handier than the dedicated engine display at foot level in the cockpit.
I did the conversion for that reason. I hid the MDI engine display in the cockpit locker.

That 10.9 might be hard to drill out. But even if stuck, you should be able to beat it out or press it out from the other side.
 

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