Yanmar Fuel Line Help

climenuts

Anarchist
783
337
PNW
One of the fuel lines on our 2GM failed yesterday on our way home.

I'm hoping to get some help identifying this hose and fittings so I can source a replacement. Bonus points if someone knows where I can get a replacement in the lower mainland.

This section is between the engine mounted fuel filter and the high-pressure pump.

1675095807106.png
1675095822171.png


To get us home I bypassed the engine fuel filter by bending the formed steel line directly onto the high-pressure pump so I will likely need to replace it too.
 

longy

Overlord of Anarchy
7,193
1,388
San Diego
The hot rod car guys use a lot of hoses like that, all custom made

In a real pinch, I think you can cut the compression collars off & use just rubber hose & clamps
 

mcpusc

New member
39
17
PNW, USA
went through something similar with my YSB8 last summer — after talking to several yanmar mechanics and hydraulic shops the advice was "replace with modern USCG rated fuel hose".

bring the old hose in and a hydraulic shop can cut the fittings off and crimp them to a new piece of hose. if the fittings are trashed the shop can source replacements or you can order the individual pieces from yanmar; they have part numbers listed in the manual.
 

Zonker

Super Anarchist
10,647
7,045
Canada
bring the old hose in and a hydraulic shop can cut the fittings off and crimp them to a new piece of hose.
Do this. The banjo fittings are the important bit. Try to get the orientation of the banjos similar (not in same plane)

Take the copper crush washers (items 24/25), hold them with a pair of pliers and heat to cherry red hot (propane torch, gas stove top, etc.). Then immediately drop into a pot of cold water. This anneals (softens) the copper and you can re-use them. Or buy new ones from Yanmar for $1.75 each (you'll need 4).

 

voodoochile

Anarchist
609
47
Hampton, Va
One of the fuel lines on our 2GM failed yesterday on our way home.

I'm hoping to get some help identifying this hose and fittings so I can source a replacement. Bonus points if someone knows where I can get a replacement in the lower mainland.

This section is between the engine mounted fuel filter and the high-pressure pump.

View attachment 571208 View attachment 571209

To get us home I bypassed the engine fuel filter by bending the formed steel line directly onto the high-pressure pump so I will likely need to replace it too.
Mac Boring is the Yanmar distributor. Give them a call.
 

Son of Hans

Member
188
97
San Diego
That's not a Yanmar hose - it has already been replaced at least once. If done with quality hose, that sort of replacement should last a lifetime. I replaced my oil lines with M12 banjos and -03 hose. For an fuel line I would use -06 or -08 hose. I get my parts from Pegasus auto racing supplies. As others have said, don't forget the crush washers.
 
Last edited:

climenuts

Anarchist
783
337
PNW
Thanks. Greenline in Vancouver made me a new hose for $45 in 10 minutes. The new fittings were a bit longer so the bend in the hose is a bit more aggressive.

1675795864514.png

Cleaning all of the diesel out of the bilge was a PITA. A work colleague suggested using dishwasher detergent which worked pretty well getting everything into the bilge sump. Pulling up the cabin sole and cleaning the bilge was long overdue anyway.

We shopvac'd the diesel/emulsified diesel out of the sump, wiped with oil pads, and cleaned with dishwasher detergent but the residue is very persistent. Any tips on getting things cleared up so I can pump my bilge into the ocean again?
 

SloopJonB

Super Anarchist
71,066
13,862
Great Wet North
Dishwasher detergent is strong stuff, designed to cut grease but the only way to get a greasy bilge really clean is to go over it and over it and over it.

When you think you're done, wipe it with acetone and then soapy water.

When dry, spritz it with water - if it beads like on a waxed car you aren't done. Scrubbing with a brass brush can help a lot.

When done, paint everything - you'll never have a better chance and in fact it will likely never get done if you don't do it now. Makes a huge difference.

White Bilgecoat is pretty tolerant of a less than flawlessly clean surface - certainly better than ordinary paint - but it still needs to be as clean as you can get it.
 

climenuts

Anarchist
783
337
PNW
I didn't even think to paint it. It doesn't really matter to us and I doubt we'd extract any value out of the next owner for it. The sole is back on and I'm not opening that sarcophagus again voluntarily. The one thing I wish we had the foresight to put a small brass chain through the limber holes so we could clean them without taking the sole up.

Everything is spotless and water isn't beading except in the bilge sump itself.
 
Top